justjoseph63

The piece with the blue paint on it looks like cardboard and was probably for packing and not part of the kit. The piece you need is a sheet of ABS which would be cut down into the cover strips. Below is a photo showing how RS includes this (with a faceplate for size comparison). If I were you, I would get in touch with RS (link here). They have fantastic customer service and would probably be willing to sell you a replacement sheet. One of RS' trademarks is the bumpy cap (just like the originals) so I do believe you have one of their kits.

GREAT to have you here, Andrei! Does the kit come with all the necessary cover strips for the arms and legs? If so, can I ask what the need for the "extra" ABS is for? The reason being is that if your kit does indeed include the strips. unless you need to shim out the ab/kidney connection you should be fine. Many of us install "inner" cover strips on certain parts for added strength (especially inside the front of the calves), but since they are not seen you can use any shade of white. As Glen mentioned, posting up some photos of your kit would be really helpful so that we can give you some more precise info. It would be especially good if you can also include some detailed photos of the entire kit (all parts). This will allow us to determine what you will/will not need. Know that we are here for every step of the way, future Trooper. No question is too small, so always feel free to ask for advice (especially before cutting or gluing) . We LOVE photos, so feel free to post as many as you like. If you need help doing that, I have a thread here that will help. Aștept cu nerăbdare să văd progresul!

Lookin' sharp, sir! While not a requirement for Expert Infantry, it is for Centurion (which I hope you will be aiming for) . Even if you don't want to submit for Level 3, countersinking those ear screws (yes, all 6) is one of those tiny things that not only looks better, but will give your bucket a more screen accurate look. As shown in the pics it's super easy to do, but be VERY careful not to drill out too much. Use a slow speed, and you probably only need one or two rotations with the bit to get the depth you want.

I guess that definitively answers the question posed in this thread.

Yeah, but that would be at least $1400., plus boots, rubber gaskets, neck seal, gloves, etc.

I was considering one of their FO armor kits, but they aren't offering the buckets (yet). If/when they do, it appears they may price themselves out of the market. All the other types of helmets they do start at $650.00 (OUCH) so I can see them running at least that price or more. I know they can be purchased from other vendors, but the color may not match. Still, fantastic to hear that some folks are getting their back-orders!!

For those that are wondering why certain acronyms are underlined, we did that to make it easier for folks to know what they stand for . If you scroll over them the full wording shows up.

Sounds like it's time for me to over-analyze this, lol. As seen in the second image, traditionally for higher levels of approval the pauldron color has closely matched the paint on the armor. Even in the Mandalorian version the colors match pretty close. However, in the videogame image they are not even in the same ballpark. Not a fan of this, to be honest. Videogame Current CRL Mandalorian We have to consider that the game image references are at least 12 years old, and now that we have more solid, updated ones I personally would steer clear of the older version with the mismatched hues of red. Another thing to consider is that in the older version (1st pic) the paint is more of a Burgundy color and lines are not as crisp and clean as the new ones (2nd pic). Some "battle damage" is necessary, but the game paint job is just a mess. The paint details (3rd pic) in the Mandalorian are different as well. As seen in the last image it extends down the front of the thigh cover strip, covers the center of the sniper knee and there is a design on the hand guards. I am really liking the newer version, and considering the updated references I will be suggesting that we closely follow these when it comes time to change the CRL, including the stitching/seam on the pauldron. While we can't dictate a particular paint color, my suggestion will be a "Maroon" red or something close. Same for the pauldron. As for current approvals (Levels 2 and 3) it is my feeling that the pauldron should (closely) match the paint.

A little wobbly, but I would have no issues passing it.

SO, you want to go ESB, huh? AWESOME! If you are considering building a 3-D printed E-11 to go with that costume I can help.. I am also in the middle of an ESB build but due to lack of space (going on 10 months now) I was forced to concentrate on the weapon first. I used Bryan's @trooper96 incredibly accurate ANH E-11 kit and (IMHO) it turned out pretty danged nice. I have a complete tutorial on how I did it here, and just hit me up via PM if you need help or any of the greebs I created. Despite the work, it honestly was a really fun build!

Don't forget that the stripes should sit approximately a pencil width from the top of the cheek.

Welcome to the FISD, Chris! The good thing about getting your armor approved by the Legion is that you will have access to all the events ("troops") in your area. You simply sign up for the ones you want to attend, and you will be in the company of fellow TKs (and usually all sorts of other SW characters). This makes things all the more fun, and you will get to meet like-minded folks and make new friends who share in our hobby. As others have said, I personally don't suggest wearing your armor in public unless you are with a group of others who are doing the same. Comicons are the exception, of course. Plus, when you are on an official troop, you will have the benefit of "handlers". I have more information on that in my thread here which may help. Don't be a stranger, and always feel free to contact us with any questions you may have at any time (no matter how small). We are a very friendly bunch of folks are here to assist you in any way we can!

If you are going for ANH Stunt/Hero those are the wrong ones, Michael. The CRL for those costumes states that they must be "hand painted or have the appearance of hand painted". However, if you are aiming for ESB they are fine, and for ESB they MUST be decals, not hand painted. ESB Decals are fine for ANH for all levels of approval. Link to those can be found here.

It looks (at least from the photos) that you have almost no return edge as it is, which should allow you to trim them with no issues, so I honestly would not recommend attempting to put a return edge back on them. Just make sure that the cod snaps are connected and you may be good to go.

Makaze was my first Squad and I still have lots of friends down there, so you can bet I'll be down! (Tell Gary sr., Gary jr. and Randy I said hello).

Changed to "Inactive". Please PM me when you are ready to move ahead, sir!

Hi Luca, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Thanks for your patience!! Overall a really nice build, sir, and a lot of great attention to details! You nailed it for Expert infantry, but since Centurion is the pinnacle we have a few issues to over, but after seeing what an amazing job you did with this armor there's nothing you can't handle! Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Starting with the stripes on the rear traps- the height is spot-on, but they need to be thicker to match the screen references as seen below. If you don't feel comfortable using a paintbrush, you could try a paint pen (link here). Reference images Next up- We noticed a couple of issues with the rear of your left thigh. The right one looks fine and dandy, but the left one has a much smaller gap between the top / posterior plate, and the cover strip is longer. A small amount is no big deal, but it's pretty noticeable and as seen in the reference images the thigh tops should be more or less level and the strips should be the same length. I would not suggest just lowering the left thigh, as the tops of the inside and the level in the front are perfect, but trimming the left one down to match the right would remedy both issues and give you a more symmetrical look. Should take you all of 15-20 minutes at most! Reference images Last up is a the rivet placement. Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, the top one needs to be closer to the top of the kidney. Although it can't be seen, we suspect the ab rivet needs to be moved as well. This is an issue that we have seen many times in the past, and is honestly not as difficult to fix as it may seem. The rivets can be removed and re-used, and it's just a matter of filling/sanding the holes. I know this seems like a small issue and very few people would ever notice, but for Level 3 it's all about screen accuracy and those Reference images We KNOW that you can take care of these items, brother, and we are at your disposal if you need help. Looking forward to seeing the results when you submit for Centurion!

My pleasure! Always feel free to hit us up if you have any questions!

Regarding the helmet padding Example- On my first build I added pretty thick padding in the top, but it sat pretty high and I found I was constantly tilting my bucket forward just to be able to see. I removed it (which lowered the helmet) and my field of vision was greatly increased. I now only use padding on the sides, which is just snug enough to make sure the helmet turns when I turn my head. The lower your eyes sit the less you can see. Our field of vision is not that great to begin with, so limiting what you can see can be dangerous at times (think small kids running up to you, steps, curbs, etc.

Hi Chris, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion #513. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Overall a fantastic build, brother. There are a few items that we sincerely hope you will consider upgrading to make this armor really look top-notch! As seen below, both colors on the ab button plates should have the same finish. The gray looks perfect, but the blue has a dull (matte) appearance. Reference image We are suggesting that the TD clips be replaced because of the extra holes. Not the biggest of deals as they cannot be seen, but the originals didn't have them. Reference image Last up is the Hengstler counter. In a perfect world it should set back farther and be angled slightly, almost at the same angle as the folding stock. There are several variations on height, but that would be up to you. Reference images And that's it! Again, a fine job on this TM kit, and if you are ever in Squad 7 territory I look forward to trooping with ya'... now it's time to get out and make the FLG proud as our newest Centurion!

Reminds me of a futuristic Samurai.

One thing I would suggest when adding padding is to attach it with Velcro so that it is removeable. When we troop, we sweat, and those pads will start smelling pretty bad after wearing them for a while. Being able to take them out and hand-wash them will prevent a stinky bucket.

One thing to consider is that during a troop the majority of the time you will be holding your E-11 with your arms bent.. When dry fitting (before gluing) make sure that the return edges on the inside top of the forearm don't dig into you. If the top opening is even the slightest bit snug in that area those edges will cause chafing (we call it "armor bite") after a short time. If it's loose enough you can get away with the extra return edge there, but if you find this out afterward and trim them down the top can be too loose. Some folks can get away with it, some can't.. it's a matter of comfort. Whether you remove that area or not it will not affect approval at any level, but the majority of those seen/used onscreen had no return edges. Either way you do it just make sure the edges are sanded down really smooth.

EXCELLENT job on the ab/kidney gap, and that sniper knee looks much better! I'll be with ya' as quick as I can, brother, so hang in there. By the way, the paint job on that bucket is phenomenal!

MUCH better, sir, and THANKS! Just one more issue... it looks as if you have too many wrinkles in your undersuit. A professional tailor can take care of that for you.. Just kidding, Luca. See? We in the D.O. department DO have a sense of humor (contrary to popular belief). I will be the one doing your review, so hang in there.