justjoseph63

There is a video on Youtube which will give you the basics, but I don't think I would go nearly as far as he does with the weathering, (sometimes less is more). Also, you should use a brass colored paint (like Testors) for the scope, available at Michael's or any craft/hobby shop. Hint: Turn the volume off, (it's kind of annoying). Worse case scenario, it's just paint, so you can hit it with coat of flat black (enamel) and start over!

Centurion level aims to have the highest degree of accuracy, and with Rubies, and other similar toy blasters, there is simply too many things that are inaccurate as it comes from the factory.. No hex-screws on the front of the muzzle, grip has no texture/markings, no power cylinders or mount for them, no end cap clip, no selector switch, inaccurate front sight, magazine/housing, and Hengstler counter, no screws on the front of the scope, multiple holes in the body, bendy T-tracks, no separate scope rail, etc. Of course many of these can be remedied, especially with T-Jays finishing kit, (which I highly recommend). I'm in no way saying that people shouldn't go for the Hasbro/Rubies conversion, (my first build was a Hasbro/doopydoos mod). It's a great way to get started trooping without spending a ton, and is a constructive (and addicting) way to spend your time while waiting for your armor, but in order to reach the highest level, you gotta go the extra mile. Please note, this is only my humble opinion.

Tom, you can pick up an inexpensive one (with some accessories) at Harbor freight, http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rotary+tool, or even a set on ebay, just search Rotary Tool, and they run as cheap as $13.00 delivered. Unless it is something you will be using a lot after your build, you can get away with buying one if these inexpensive ones, and you can buy any extra needed pieces/attachments at Lowe's or Home Depot.

Looking at your build so far, looks like you are on track to reach EIB, Tahitoa! As for Centurion, I am not sure even when modified that it would be acceptable even with those fantastic mods. (It IS addicting, isn't it)?! Not sure if you have checked out the CRL's, but below is a copy if it helps. Great to hear that you are shooting for Centurion, but you may end up having to purchase a Doopydoos or similar, and judging from the work so far, I think it would be a piece of cake for you! Great job! For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. For level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

I had a kid (7 or 8 years old) at the TFA premier who ran up and punched me in the cod several times, and then tried to take my T-21. The parents simply watched in amusement and laughed about it! Then, the father had the audacity to demand "Come over here for picture". Luckily a handler stopped it, and I walked away. Yet another reason never to troop alone or without a handler!

Great job so far, Tyler! I would definitely think about smoothing/evening out all of the edges on your TD caps/plate, shoulder bridges, biceps, etc. before painting again. The tool I found best for this is a half-round file. The curved side is great for, well, curved parts, and the flat side works awesome on flat edges. Just take off a little at a time until they are even/smooth. I followed this up with a sanding sponge for final smoothing, and it worked out well. For the TD caps, like Airborne Trooper (Jason) mentioned, you can lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface to even out the edges,, and this should work well with the shoulder straps as well, (you can take the edge almost all the way to the bumps).

Dremel tools.. is there anything they can't do? (Except for maybe filling out complicated insurance forms).

Furry Props should definitely be added to every list of "Who to Avoid" in the Getting Started Section, with a link to this thread.

Here in FL. it gets a bit warm wearing rubber gloves in the summer, so for those occasions I use these, and LOVE em'! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cold-Weather-Fleece-Liner-Nomex-Flight-Flyers-Gloves-Black-Green-Tan-/290607730461. I like the fact that they are tight, (I can pick up coins), breathable, and also the wrist extends a bit further than regular gloves, so they stay tucked under my forearm armor.

Looking good, Rob! I did notice the kidney riding down as you mentioned, and noticed that there is only one strap on top holding it in place. If I may make a suggestion that could alleviate this, I would go with a set of double snaps, like these, (photo). I used the this method on all my connections, and the joints don't budge! Industrial strength Velcro works well. If this is something you are interested in, just let me know via PM and I will send you some 2 inch wide black nylon, (enough for your whole build). Best of luck in your submission, trooper!

While you can obviously do what you want with your costume, I think you will find that the overwhelming majority choose not to go the "birthday circuit" route, and I don't recommend advertising any 501st or FISD affiliation if you decide to do this and advertise your services. I've heard some horror stories of folks trooping alone... Being purposely tripped, having articles stolen, (TDs, etc.), punched, (by kids), , adult birthday parties- (alcohol + costumed characters = bad news) and the list goes on. When you troop alone, there is no one to watch your back, and things can get out of hand faster than you think, which is why going solo is frowned upon. Do you have your 501st ID number yet? If so, you can check the local Garrison/Squad for official activities in your area, and believe me, it's always more fun (and much safer) to troop with a group, even if it is a small one.

Here it is... yet another reason to get the FO kit when it comes out. You guys have the best toys! Great job buddy, great job indeed.

I love that sentence, Chris! If you haven't already got them, I am going to send you a free set of Centurion level rivets/washers for your build. If you need them, just PM me your address.

The shirts are custom made, with your name imprinted on them. Once you are approved and receive your official TK #, you will be able to order one. They are offered occasionally, so you will need to keep an eye out here on the forums for when they go on sale. Some Garrisons offer them as well.

To PM someone, simply click on their avatar photo/image, and then look in the upper right hand corner of the page, where you will see a box that says Send Me A Message.

You can also opt for a smaller bin, Jayson, and carry your bucket separately. My buddy Jeff from the Tampa Bay Squad did this so it would fit in his car, and came up with a great idea for the handle. You can see what he did here, starting about half way down the page : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33175-an-ata-for-tampa-bay/page-5

A big congrats and welcome to Centurion, brother! Well deserved!!

This might also help, Jim.. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

Just noticed the seam.. Great job and clever thinking!

Do you mean one of the ab button plates, Christina? A photo of what you are are looking for would better assist us in helping you out.

If he decides to do another one, I am sure they will be open to all.

Glad you are liking the new E-11, Jeff, and thanks for the kind words!

Actually, once you get basic approval you should be able to apply immediately for EIB with the full RS commission set, Magnus. After that, all you should need is rubber or latex hand guards and the correct boots to go for Centurion!

I just PM'd my buddy Charles asking if he is planning another run of these, and will keep this updated when I find out. They turned out fantastic, and he was selling them for a great charitable cause! ---------

I wouldn't say HWTs are the best, but darn close. (I may be just a bit impartial, though)..