justjoseph63

I would stick with flat black enamel for the t-tracks, Bill. The only part that most people use gloss or semi-gloss on is the hand grip. Also, don't forget that the t-tracks do not get weathered.

I got this idea from Tim, (Dark CMF), Will, so this is what I used: ---------- Getting the lenses out was a bit of a pain, but they fit perfectly in my resin blaster, so they should work for a hyperfirm. Here is a heads-up, though... when you go to glue the lens in, do NOT let any CA (super) glue get on the inside. As it dries, the fumes can fog up the inside of the lens.

Way to go Michael! Welcome to to EIB, sir, and a big congrats on being the first Anovos owner to reach it... next up, Centurion!

Rob makes awesome belts, Ben, (I own 2). I like them because they are made to order with your measurements.

The CRL says "lightly scuffed, but not battle worn like a Sandtrooper". I would hold off on the dents and scorch marks for now, as if carried too far it may not pass approval, and it may even weaken your armor if you are not careful how it's done. As for "lightly scuffed", I bought a women's black powder makeup compact thingy and a "blush" brush, both from the dollar store. It stays on really well, but I can remove it when I have to go as a regular TK. This is a pic of my armor.

This is definitely something that looks right up your alley, Tony. Should I just send you a blank check now? LOL

Glad to hear you are going HWT, Brian! I have a fair amount on mine, but for the "perfect" HWT weathering, check out my friend Charles' EIB submission pics here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30336-tk-72627-requesting-hwt-eib-status-fx3/ Not too much, not too little. (Sometimes less is more)! Also, don't forget to weather your pack as well. If you need pics, or any particular info. on becoming a HWT, just let me know, and best of luck on your build!

The way I did it, Christina, is to do the scope in several layers of flat black enamel, and then used the "dry brush" technique to highlight it on the edges with the brass paint. Just don't go overboard on the weathering. Sometimes less is more! I would do the Hengstler counter in flat black as well. I also did the grip in semi-gloss with no weathering.

To keep them stretched, I use a set of these bad boys in between troops. Works like a charm! ----------

Thanks for clarifying that, Germain! I got that reference from this thread after someone (no names) forwarded it to me a while back, so I stand corrected!

Awesome looking build, Michael!. Great job!

The photo looks kind of fuzzy, unfortunately. I noticed that in the 3D image that the barrel holes and t-tracks are missing, but that could be a rough draft(?) A lot of it will depend on what you will be using it for, Dave.. If you are looking for something to do a lot of trooping with, I would stick with a Hyperfirm, as it will get banged around... (trust me). If you are looking for a display piece, a 3D print or resin model should be just dandy. I would hold off on this particular one until you can see some MUCH clearer photos.

I have ordered 2 hyperfirms from slavefive, Mark, and LOVE em! Another good thing about them is that often people will ask "can I hold your gun"? You can feel comfortable doing that knowing that you won't go into cardiac arrest if a 10 year old drops it!

Thanks for the link, Eddie, and thanks for the kind words, Dave! After working on quite a few of the Anovos kits, I gotta say that I am not overly fond of their strapping system. I would replace the elastic they send (except for the shoulder bridges, shoulder bell, and bicep/forearm connections with nylon, and ditch the Velcro completely in favor of snaps. MUCH more secure! You can use 1 inch wide black nylon for most of the strapping, Eric. In the places I mentioned for elastic, you can use the 1 inch wide black type they supply, except for the shoulder connections, which should be 2 inch wide white elastic. A tip when attaching snaps to elastic: Always double over the ends and hit them with a little CA (super) glue before attaching the snaps for strength. This will help prevent the snaps from ripping out easily. Some folks (including myself) use the double snap system. Not everywhere, but mainly in the areas in the photos. This takes a bit more time, but I know that nothing will ever, ever fall off during a troop.

Being in Scotland, you might want to get in touch with RS Prop Masters, ([email protected]) in the UK. Their complete build service is pretty much Centurion ready right out of the box, with a few extras needed.

Truly an awesome job on this build, Joe, and spectacular job on the paint work! Looks like Makaze Squad will be getting a new EIB (and then Centurion) very soon!

Another great job, folks, Thank you!

Even though I have a larger bin, I still keep my bucket in one of these from Trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/helmet-bags.html Keeps it from getting scratched all to heck.

When "Big Brown Box" day comes, Jeff, the best way to ease your fears is to really dig in to the build threads you will find here. In other words, research, research research. Everyone who gets their first kit has apprehensions, but the key is to be informed, which is a main goal of this site. The amount of information to found here is truly staggering, but then again so is the knowledge and help from folks who have your back. My suggestion is to start your own build thread from day one. Yes, there are a lot of them here, but always room for one more! This will do a couple of things... You can post pictures (highly encouraged), ask questions, (you will get more responses posting them all in one thread), and better keep track of (and show off) your progress. I agree that you should go for the highest standard right out of the box. Reaching EIB and Centurion does require some commitment, but I promise it is attainable, and we are here to help! The fact that you build drones shows that you have an eye for details, which is what a lot of what these levels are all about, so it may be easier for you. I would suggest reading through the requirements for both levels, and taking some time to study these areas as well: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ You should also get involved with your local Garrison/Squad. Many of them hold "armor parties", which are designed to help new folks with their armor at a hands-on level. Whatever route you choose, know that again, we are here to help. If you have any questions, you are always welcome to PM me if needed. If I can't assist you, I will find someone who will, or steer you in the right direction.

Welcome to your new "home away from home", Matt! Like Carl said, the amount of information here can certainly seem overwhelming, but we got your back, sir! Glad to hear you are planning to do a lot of research... that is the main key here. Most any question you can think of is to be found here somewhere, but you are always welcome to ask if there's something you are having trouble with. Don't forget to check out the EIB (Expert Infantry Badge) and Centurion programs, to see just how far you can take your build! Not sure what area you are in, but you should also check in to signing up with your local Garrison or Squad, which can provide a great deal of information.

Looking forward to seeing this on Sunday, Greg... Great progress!!!

While I am not sure about the midnight blue, Jon, the french blue will definitely get you to Centurion, (which I am glad to hear you are aiming for)!! The two most popular are made by Testors (color #2715) and Humbrol (color #14). For the seams on your shim additions, you will need to make up some ABS paste. It's not as hard as it sounds, and it will make them almost invisible with a bit of work. Take a glass jar, and add some small bits and shavings of ABS scraps. Then you add Acetone in small amounts until it reaches a gooey, toothpaste-like consistency. This can take a bit of time, and stir it often. Using a popsicle stick, spread it along the seams, but not too heavy... just enough to cover them. Once it dries you can sand it down using progressively smaller grits of sandpaper, them finish it off with a scratch removal product like Novus' 3-step system. It takes a bit of time, but the efforts will be well worth it! P.S. Don't forget to put the notches back in the kidney. Also, a quick word about acetone... Use the full strength stuff, like you can find in the paint dept. of Lowe's. Nail polish remover has acetone, but it is not nearly strong enough to melt the ABS.

You might want to hit up Lewis (slavefive), Jim. He makes some awesome Hyperfirms! I purchased my DLT-19 and T-21 from him, and couldn't be happier with them.

He certainly must have an extra large cod piece to advertise that his are the "Most accurate anywhere". The photos in the slideshow are of several different blasters, the sights are too far back, it looks like it was painted with a wire brush, and don't even get me started on that "spring".

Blastech Industries recommends 7 triple A batteries to power the the standard Imperial issue E-11, which fit nicely in a drop box...