Trogdor

Looking good!

Looks good!

Another reason, at least for me, is the sew on snap is easier for me to do without assistance.

That's exactly why I was saying I think the correct way is to seperate the cod and shorten there but verify with the expert as I didn't do it myself.<br><br> You'll get through this. My big issue was thighs and shims.<br><br> I just don't want to give bad advice.

I didn't but I have seen several threads that have. I would say to do that before you cut the top of the ab. My thinking is there is molded detail up there you'll lose where as the top of the cod is nondescript. I'd recommend sending a pm to Ukswrath or sly11 especially if your going centurion.

Looking good your making good progress. I looked at these pictures <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/919-ab-plate-06jpg/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/919-ab-plate-06jpg/</a><br><br> But ended up leaving more of the surrounding plastic for glue surface. The important thing is no overhang. <br><br> I hope that makes sense.

It does look good assuming it's the right shin. You may want to shorten the cover strip from the top to avoid sharp corners near the back of the knee. There is a number of pics in the reference section. <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/873-anhlowerrightlegrearjpg/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/873-anhlowerrightlegrearjpg/</a>

I had some cheap 1" stuff around the house that worked ok for the snap plates. Justjoseph gave me some seatbelt material that's much nicer for the straps. So I'm confident saying both will work.

I just cut mine from spare sheet abs. Straight edge clamped. Score and snap method.

Thanks for doing this sorry it's so hard.

I used the trooper bay decals and used the method similar to what mark described but used windex instead of water. I have to say that in my case it didn't remove the adhesive but makes it in effective. That's the point, you slide it around and get where you want it the you squeegee the solution out and the adhesive sticks.<br><br> The addition of the windex speeds the sticking of the adhesive as it evaporates faster. Trooperbays decal video covers it pretty well. I am a big fan of him and his products.

Nice. I'll need to re look at mine too as I may have labeled them wrong. I always feel I have them wrong.

After reviewing how your doing your glue up I think your having an issue fighting the opposing sides joining/cover strip. I used painters tape and clamps to slightly deform the piece to line up the glue surfaces. I let it dry an extra day as the FL weather and trapped e6000 didn't seem to fully cure in 24 hours.

It took me 5 months but It really depends on how much time you put in to it and in some cases how much extra work is required shims and e6000 drying take time. <br> As for e6000 I went through 2. I did interior cover strips and I had a decent amount of rework and shims on the thighs.<br> 10 magnets workable, that's what I had, but during certain times I wanted more. To get through I used clamps, painters tape and other jigs to get by.

Looks good so far. Especially the sanding of the edges. I second the comments on the under suit for fittings, it changes things more than you think. Also I recommend gloves for forearm fitting as they get tucked in the wrist end or as I do it the armor goes over them and the wrist gap disappears. The biceps will likely be lower to the elbow given your arm length so make sure they are comfortable there. I should note that the location kind of depends on where the shoulder bells sit.<br> Sorry for the lack of comments as life gets in the way some times, pm if I can help and you don't see me around.