justjoseph63

This is the one I ordered, http://www.ebay.com/itm/STORMTROOPER-HELMET-DIGITAL-VOICE-CHANGER-SYSTEM-W-SPEAKER-MICROPHONE-NEW/171934728205?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37427%26meid%3Def1d43eb78224bd488aea6ebf37c9cc2%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D181869042218. I paid right around $100.00 for it, including postage, and it still works. If you would like to try it out, I can let you have it for $25.00 shipped Priority Mail. Just drop me a PM if interested.

I had this system in my first bucket, and to be quite honest, I was not too impressed. Lots of feedback, and not very loud, as the speaker is he size of a quarter. Swapped it out for one of Tony's (ukswrath) units which is about 500% better!

Thanks for catching that, Kalani! I was having some trouble uploading photos to my "Hero" PB folder, and it sent it to my "Stunt" folder, so that was the AM ab pic. Problem corrected!!!

Good call on the D ring, Jorge. Added, and Thanks!!

Funny you should mention a grappling hook ,Randy. I built one from scratch a few years ago (below) while waiting for my first kit, but then decided to go Stunt and sold it for $60.00. I could kick myself in the butt-plate now, LOL.

Thanks, Aaron. Yes, I noticed the sniper knee plate after I posted the photos. I went ahead and added some one inch foam strips to the inside front just like I had to with my AM ones. Much better! The shoulder bridges do look like they would cut in, but don't. I have already remedied that as well with the 1/4 inch elastic loops to keep them from riding up so high. Thanks for the input!

Welcome to the wonderful world of white armor, Jim! Great to hear that you already have your ATA kit, and Aaron has provided you with the link to the FL. Garrison. Your best bet at this point is to start seriously studying the build threads and taking notes. Gary jr. (Flashpoint027) here in the Makaze (central FL.) Squad holds some great armor parties, so you should keep an eye out in the forums for that. If I can be of any help, be sure to get in touch via PM and I will do whatever I can to help you out.

When you get to the point where you start on the teeth, Emma, I would highly recommend picking up one of these "needle file" sets from Lowe's or Home Depot, http://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067. They are perfect for small areas. Another thing I can highly suggest is 3M flexible sanding sheets, (220 grit) http://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-12-Pack-7-in-W-x-4-5-in-L-100-Grit-Commercial-Ultra-Flexible-Sandpaper-Sheets/1000065611 These things are AMAZING! Instead of a paper backing, they use silicone, which you can bend to any shape, they are almost impossible to tear, and seem to last forever. I used 3 small sheets to do an entire armor build, a resin blaster build, and they are still going strong. A bit pricey, but well worth the money.

I agree with Allan, Chad. There could be variations in the color of the black ABS depending on the manufacturer, just as there are with white ABS. With the Anovos kit, you also have the option of taking it to the higher levels as he and others have

Mandatory Information: Armor Maker- Anovos Helmet Maker- Anovos- * please see additional info. below Blaster- Doopydoos w/ T-Jay's mod kit Optional: Height- 5 ft. 10 Weight- 160 Boots- Imperial Boots Canvas belt- Gary jr. (Flashpoint027) Hand plates- Latex, "Hero" (alternative), home-made. Gloves- Black rubber Neck seal- Darman Holster- Anovos * Helmet has been modded with the following: 1. Remove paint from frown, fill in last tooth area with ABS paste, sculpt, sand, re-paint entire frown. 2. Remove paint, fill in rear and build up front of ear bumps with ABS paste. Re-sculpt to make 3 bumps. Sand and paint. 3. Brow lowered. 4. Replace phillips screws with slotted on ears, 5. Replace flat lenses with green bubble lenses. 6. Replace fine mesh on hovi-mic tips with larger mesh. 7. Third ear screw removed, hole filled. Any and all critiques are welcome, and thank you for your consideration! Front- Arms at side Back- Arms at side Left- Arms raised Right- Arms raised Right side detail- Arms raised Left side detail- Arms raised Ab details Action shot- (Sorry, kinds lame) Cod and butt plate attachment Interior strapping Helmet (front) Helmet (side) Helmet (back) Hovi-tip detail Lens color (backlit) Blaster (Left) Blaster (right) Blaster detail D ring Neck seal Thermal detonator Holster attachment

Dang, Glenn... I was gonna say that!

I could not agree more!

Those pads are GREAT! One thing I would recommend is to attach them using industrial strength Velcro. They will become a bit smelly after several troops, and that way you can take them out and clean them.

Very kind words, Aaron. Thank you!

Looking good, Tom, and GREAT to hear that you are going HWT! One quick thing, though... If you are (hopefully) going for EIB or above with your HWT, you may want to re-do the way you attach your drop boxes. They are ok for basic approval, but are not allowed on EIB and Centurion. You can add snaps to the elastic to attach them to your belt so that they are removable. Good luck, sir!

Way to go, Ryan.. Awesome job on that build, I welcome you to the ranks, brother!!!

Not sure when the next run will be... The best thing to do is keep an eye out on the boards

One of my new favorite things to do at non-canon events is this: I have the ability to stand perfectly motionless, (thanks to the U.S. military). I stand near an entrance, and inevitably people walk up for a photo with the "mannequin". When I look over at them and say "Can I help you", the looks are priceless. A word of caution if you try this, do NOT lock your knees. You can pass out.

I am thinking no, for the simple reason that it would not be practical to carry a weapon that requires the use of both hands while driving a speeder. Just my humble opinion, though...

That was cutting it close! Glad to hear you got it in time, though.

UPDATE: By the way, if anyone wants to get rid of the creases in the front/back of the shirts, simply washing/drying it will not really work. You will need to use a steam iron, but be SURE not to use the highest (cotton) setting, or it will melt. Just turn it inside out beforehand, put the steam setting up all the way and keep the iron moving at all times.

As for paint, I would use enamel, such as Testor's, which is much more durable than acrylic. Also, it helps to sand down the heads before applying it for better adhesion.

Definitely a DD, I can tell by the crappy D ring. I love their kits, and have built a few, but I was not aware that they were supplying scope rails, though. If you want to carry your build even farther, Marc, I suggest getting one of T-jay's AWESOME E-11 finishing kits, which includes all sorts of detail pieces, (including a new D ring). I used one on my last DD build, and it looks incredible. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-insured-shipping-and-paypal/

That particular writing is in fact "stressed", George, with some of the letters (especially the E) being faded a bit. Could you post a close up, detailed photo for me? EDIT: This is a photo of how they should look. If yours is different, please let me know. Thanks!

A little over 2 hours after I got to the front of the line. Beats working, though! You may even have yours today, Taylor, since you are so close!