justjoseph63

Looks pretty glossy to me, Bob. I would imagine the glossy finish will be easier to clean than a satin finish.

Those turned out great, Michael.. awesome job!

From one Joseph to another, great job! Congratulations, sir, and welcome to the rank of Centurion!!

That is why I made the changes! I like a challenge...

Congratulations, Centurion! A well deserved award for a great build, sir!

A little E-6000 should do the trick, but don't go overboard with it. If you could post a pic of the problem area(s) it would help us to help you more. There are several products you can use to stop the lenses from fogging up, but I use plain old shaving cream. Just rub a bit on the inside of the lens, then wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. Another thing that helps immensely is installing a fan system.

PM sent

Guess what, Ed. I have the correct S trim (Centurion approved) you need. I bought it from Trooperbay for $16.00, but will let you have it for 15.00, and can include it with the Hero ears so there is no extra shipping charge. PM sent.

Each method (spray or brush) has it's own advantages. The spray method does make the interior darker, but doesn't add the "heft". The brush-on method definitely adds a bit more rigidity, and many Troopers add layers of cheesecloth in between layers to add to this. Remember, the public never sees the inside, so you can add as many layers as you want, but I wouldn't go crazy with it. The most important thing is to sand down and then then thoroughly clean the inside before any application(s). Otherwise it can (and will) peel off if you attach Velcro inside to hold your electronics.

Looking great, David! I had the exact problem with my E-11 in regards to the rear sight being backward. The small ridges are supposed to be on the back side, but if mounted like that the scope rail has nothing to rest on to keep it raised due to the fact that the front side is hollow. Instead of tearing it off, what I did was to simply file off the ridges in the front, and then "replace" them the back with a needle file and hit it with a bit of paint. (See finished job below). Took all of 8 minutes beginning to end. You may need some expert advice on how to change the charge handle, but I have faith that you can get it done and get that Centurion badge soon!

Looking SHARP, Joe! Outstanding looking set of armor you have there, sir, and I look forward to welcoming you to the Centurion ranks soon!

Mandatory Information Armor maker- Anovos Helmet Maker- Anovos (Modded) * Blaster Type- Doopydoos w/ T-Jay mods Optional Height- 5 ft. 10 Weight- 160 Boots Maker- Imperial Boots Canvas Belt- Gary jr. (Flashpoint027) Hand Plates- Latex, "Alternative" Hero style, made by me. Neck Seal- Darman Holster- Anovos * Please see EIB submission for helmet mods http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38133-tk10963-requesting-anh-hero-eib-status-anovos616/ Front- Arms at side Back- Arms at side Left- Arms raised Right- Arms raised Ab/Kidney Attachment- Button orientation (Corrected) Butt/Kidney- Fixed- No. Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment Knee Plate Drop Box Back(s) Cod/Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Kidney Plate Notch (Modified to 22mm x 22 mm) Wrist Side of Forearms Helmet Front Helmet Left Helmet Right Helmet Back Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color S-Trim Blaster Left Blaster Right Neck Seal Holster Attachment Thermal Detonator Back Here are the photos of correction details from my EIB submission: Snap replacement on ab plate- V-shaped flat-head screws on ear piece, (shown partially removed for clarity). New ab buttons have been repainted to meet requirements, (Shown on updated photo above). Shoulder bridges have been curved down in back, and now lie closer to back-plate. (Shown on updated photo(s) above). Backward rear sight on E-11 has been corrected (below) Thank you for you consideration and all feedback!

I bought these a while back for non-canon events, and LOVE them!--------------- It gets really hot (and humid) here, and they perfect. I also like the fact that the wrists are longer so the won't poke out of your forearms.

Way to go, Jim! Great build, brother... a few easy fixes, and next stop, Centurion!!!!!

The factory finish should be good enough to protect them from the elements.. My Imperial boots have been through pretty much everything, and have held up fantastic! I suppose you could add a coat of clear Kiwi shoe polish, but I would be careful about spraying them with a waterproofing product, as some can remove the paint. Another thing I highly suggest is to keep shoe trees in them to keep them stretched between troops. ----------

Looking GREAT, Gary! I especially like that double snap system, (I swear by it)! The big thing I would do is to remove all the return edge off the forearms, which includes that raised part with the bumps. Awesome, job, Trooper, and I look forward to welcoming you to the Centurion ranks!

Done! Thanks!

I personally would recommend what I did, Shea. I first got my ANH Stunt approval, (all the way to Centurion) and then I applied for HWT basic and above. You may not need to change the belts, but I found it much easier. The MP-40 ammo pack worn on your left side may hide the holes in the belt if worn right.

Not sure when the next one will be, Neil, but keep an eye out on the boards. You will need to have your official 501st TK i.d. to order one, so get cracking on that build!

Smells like... VICTORY!

Not sure if the certificates are available again, Hunter, but keep an eye out for that thread to re-open (hopefully) soon. If I can add one small suggestion regarding your TD, you might want to think about taking a couple of strips of white one inch Velcro (the fuzzy side) and attaching them to the back of the clips. This will keep the from scratching up your butt-plate.

Looking pretty good, Tom! 2 quick things, though... Can you tighten up the gap on the left side? You should have no problem for level 1, (EIB), but level 2 (Centurion) may require it to be closer together. If you used elastic for the connection you may want to think about using nylon webbing instead, which won't stretch. Also, I would recommend rounding the corner on the top left side shim slightly. The reason being that it can snag on your undersuit and possibly make a hole or tear in it. Good luck on your application! For level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed. For level three certification (if applicable): Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor.A single visible seam line is present.

Way to go, Hunter! Congrats on a great build and welcome to the ranks, brother... next stop, CENTURION!

Just that one...

Some perfect information there, Scott. That particular join (front of the calf) gets more of a workout than any of the others because of the fact that it is bent every time you put it on. In some kits, like Anovos, the ABS is a bit more flexible, but I always slide my lower leg in rather than opening it up fully to attach it when getting suited up, then I put my boot on and secure it closed.