justjoseph63

Once you get basic 501st approval, you might want to think about posting up some photos of your build on a separate thread, Chris. You may be closer to level 2 (EIB) than you think! We would be happy to help you out with suggestions/tips, and the added expense is minimal.. The Anovos kit comes with the rivets, and the only thing you would need to think about changing (which I highly recommend) is the belt. The Anovos one is really flimsy. PM me if I can help in any way.

There are several options available, Chris, and it comes down to a personal preference. My E-11 is a Doopydoos http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp full resin kit with T-Jay's upgrade kit, (awesome) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-insured-shipping-and-paypal/ Resin blasters are pretty sturdy, and fine for trooping. The advantage is that you get a LOT of detail for a more realistic effect, (especially with the upgrade kit). The downside(s) are that you don't want to drop it, so I don't recommend allowing folks to borrow it for photos, also, Doopydoos takes up to 2 months to ship. They are often "out of stock", so if you want to order one, do it immediately when they are available, as they can go out of stock on a moment's notice. Another alternative is Hyperfirm. These are incredibly sturdy, lightweight, and can be dropped down a flight of stairs with no damage. Perfect for trooping, and you can let people hold it without fear of dropping it. You do lose a bit of detail, but they are perfectly acceptable all the way to Centurion level. Slavefive offers them on here from time to time, or you can PM him for more info. , Either way the E-11 is not required for basic approval, but of course every Trooper needs a weapon, so the spray painted Rubies would work just fine in the interim until (hopefully) you go for EIB and Centurion.

GREAT job on the build, Manny! Your attention to detail is awesome, and I hope you will be aiming for Centurion next, but there are a few things I would suggest if I may... The first is that I would take a Dremel to the top left side of the left calf, so that it doesn't stick out above the sniper knee plate. Easy fix! Secondly, your shoulder bridges seem (in my opinion) to be pretty far forward on your chest plate, leaving almost no overlap onto your back plate. If (hopefully) you are shooting for level 3, you will need some more of it overlapping in the back order to attach the white nylon straps If in fact you find that you need to move the shoulder straps back, and you used E-6000, this should be a relatively easy fix. Just put the chest piece in the freezer for a couple of hours, and (VERY carefully) use a razor knife to remove them, and the excess glue should come off easily. You can then glue them back on in a better position. I look forward to welcoming you to the EIB ranks! P.S. Love the "movie accurate" shot!

Some GREAT information from Paul there, Bob. There are many sites out there that purport to have "screen accurate" or "501st approvable" armor. In the vast majority of cases, though, this is just not true. Like Paul suggested, if you are looking for a tried and true armorer that supplies a quality product which is able to be approved by the 501st, check out this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Otherwise, you could be purchasing a very expensive Halloween costume.

No one that I know sells them, Jefferson, but if you can build a set of armor, you can build a HWT pack. In my humble opinion, 2 of the best HWT pack builds are Tony's (ukswrath) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30034-hwt-backpack-build-part-1/and Charles', (Templar726), http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30222-templars-hwt-pack-build/ I did a mash up of the two, and it came out pretty nice.

The rivets can be (carefully) drilled out with a carbon drill bit, so hopefully you won't need to need to purchase another bucket. I know I must have put 10 holes in my AM helmet, and yes, I had to remove a few rivets in the process before I got it correct.

Looks like you have a good start, TJ! To open up those teeth, I would pick up a needle file set at Lowe's or Home Depot. Also, you will need to lower the brow a bit. Take your time, and if you have any questions, it's always best to ask before cutting. Have fun with it, and best of luck on your build!

Welcome to the home of shiny white armor! The best place to get many of your questions answered is in the Getting Started section on the main page. There, you will find a list places where (and where not) to buy your kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/. After you have chosen your armor maker, there are many great build threads here that will help you along the way with step-by-step tutorials and photos, and take some time to check out the "Advanced Tactics" area as well. This will show you how far you can take your armor toward screen accuracy. Research will be your best friend, but know that we are here to help! Also, it may help to let us know what area you are in. Many Garrisons/Squads hold "armor parties", which are designed to help new folks out with their build.

Right at 3/4 inch, Nathan.

Looking great, Sean!

I think you have this one in the bag, Tom! If I could make one small suggestion, (nothing to do with approval), it would be to add some inside cover strips to the fronts of your calf armor. The reason being is that that particular area gets a lot of stress from putting on and taking off the pieces. They don't have to be perfect, since they won't be seen, but it would help strengthen them considerably. I used some extra ABS strips from trimming for this. Again, a great looking set of armor, sir, and I look forward to welcoming you to the rank of Centurion!

That is exactly what I ended up doing, Shawn. I added a loop of nylon, attached 2 snaps to it, and it has worked out great. BUT...be sure to use 2 snaps. I started with one, and it fell off 3 times on my first troop with it.

Actually, my Anovos came with the "square" S-trim, but my AM kit came with the round type. I personally prefer the round type, which is available from Trooperbay here: https://trooperbay.com/trooper-helmet-s-neck-trim

I agree with Bone. The Aker is a great product, is relatively inexpensive, easy to use, and seems to last forever. I use the 10 amp, which sits perfectly under my chest plate and is plenty loud enough, believe me.

It says " Able to be 501st submitted..". Many ebay (and other online sellers) use this or similar lines but 99.9% of the time it is simply not true. Of course it's able to be submitted, but it won't be approved, so I would steer clear of this, Jac, unless you are looking for an expensive Halloween costume. Your best bet to be sure of not only quality, but a kit that can be 501st approved is to check out the "vetted" sellers list here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/. Hope this helps!

I love my Imperial Boots, and the customer service was amazing! The only thing I would recommend is to order them one full size larger than you normally wear. I wear a size 10, and their size 11s are comfortable without being too large at all.

I didn't take any chances, Kalani. I sanded the surface with 120 grit paper to ensure a really rough surface, cleaned the bejeezus out of it, then hit it with a quick coat of Krylon primer for plastic. I have added/removed Velcro more times than I can count, and no problems yet! (Knock wood).

Also, High, don't forget to sand, clean thoroughly, and prime it before painting or using Plasti-Dip on the interior. Otherwise, anything you stick inside with Velcro will eventually peel off.

I would check with ATA directly, Mark. I have ordered several pieces of individual armor from them, and they have been great about it, plus, you know the ABS color will match. The email for inquiries is [email protected]

Way to go Tom!!! Congrats on a great looking set of armor, sir. You obviously spent some quality time on it, and it shows in all the details. Now get those new photos done and let's see that Centurion submission! Side note: This has nothing to do with your submission, but you should consider putting some Velcro (the fuzzy side) on the back of your TD clips, which will keep them from scratching your kidney armor.

Glad to be of some help, Jim. I will defer to Tony and/or Andrew on how much you can trim off the backs and still reach EIB. Please stand by.

Yes, but I'm in a 12 step program for it, though... PWGEEA... "People Who Give Extended Explanations Anonymous". I can't seem to get past step one, though.

HWT's are meant to have a few battle scars, Shawn! But, if you are using the armor for double duty, (HWT and shiny white when needed), I also recommend the Novus method.

You beat me by 4 minutes, Tony, LOL.

You are correct in thinking that the pouches would be angled, Shawn. These are the ways I attached mine, and it had held up really well. Belt ammo pack- (Photo 1) I took a piece (about 10 inches long) of a 1 inch wide strip of aluminum, (the same one used to make the E-11 scope rail) and bent it in half. I then used epoxy to secure it directly to the ammo pack itself. You simply slide it onto the belt after getting suited up. Be sure to add some self adhesive Velcro (the fuzzy side) onto the inside to keep it from scratching your armor. The photo shows duct tape, but that has been replaced with the Velcro. Shoulder ammo pack- (Photo 2) I took a piece of the same 1 inch black webbing I used for the shoulder straps and made a loop, which I secured to the left strap. I then added two snaps to hold it in place. Goes on and off easily. If you choose this method, be SURE to use 2 snaps. Trust me. Hope this helps, and if I can be of any further help, just PM me.