justjoseph63

GREAT advice!

Good call, Chris. You should be able to reach Mark on the UKG site or PM him here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/user/21142-triumphtrooper8/

If you need to replace the ammo thigh pack rivets, I will send you couple for free if you pick up the postage ($1.40). I have the double caps or split rivets, both of which are acceptable. If interested, just PM me. Looking sharp, and I hope to see a Centurion badge under you name soon!

Not sure how that works for the UKG Mark, but you might want to PM Chris for more info. concerning his statement that " The UKG has PLI for members, but you would need to be a full cleared member for this to apply".

Way to go on your second EIB, Robert! Hope to see the second Centurion submission soon!

That blaster should get 501st clearance, Mark, but actually owning it/trooping with it could possibly be tricky. Here is a recent thread on the subject, and you should check out Chris' (themaninthesuicase) answer: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42007-shipping-blasters-from-the-us-to-the-uk-or-other-countries/

Excellent information, Chris, and thanks for posting that. I'm not sure if I'd attempt to "sneak one through" customs. Packages are routinely x-rayed in most countries, (especially these days) and mis-labeling one on the customs form would immediately send up a red flag.

You might want to touch base with Chris (themaninthesuitcase). He may be familiar with the UK Customs policies on that. As you mentioned, it would be interesting to find out which countries allow prop weapons to be shipped there. Also, I would try slavefive.

I don't think the HWT CRL will be changing again for quite a while, as we just spent a lot of time updating it. The pack itself may be added at a future point, though. The pack in the second pic looks suspiciously Photoshopped, but Shawn (CrookKnight) is making them right now and they look awesome! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41934-fs-stormtrooper-jump-pack/

Caveat emptor is Latin for "Buyer Beware".

There are often ways to remedy these problems, Scott, but as mentioned photos will help immensely. Worse case scenario you could order another set from ATA. I have purchased several items from ATA and the customer service is top-notch.

GREAT idea, Brian!!

For final sanding, I purchased a pack of 3M silicone sanding sheets. These things are AWESOME! You can twist, fold, and bend them every which way and they will not tear. They seem to last forever... I used 2 sheets to do an entire set of armor and a resin E-11 and they were still in good shape. https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-15-Pack-9-in-W-x-11-0000-in-L-120-Grit-Premium-Paper-Sandpaper/50191429

Plasti-Dip will smell a bit for the first couple of hours, but it will disappear after a day or so. Before applying it, I recommend lightly sanding and then wiping it out with rubbing alcohol to make sure the surface is completely clean. Sanding it will help with adhesion. Be sure to mask off all the areas (eyes, teeth) with blue painter's tape first.

Congrats on your BBB day, Justin! You have purchased on the best armors on the market, and there are many great build threads for RS props here. Hopefully you will be aiming for Centurion (easy to do with RS) and I look forward to your build thread!

Nice job! As for attaching the hand plates, I suggest using clear silicone. There is no type of glue that will adhere to silicone. Use a liberal amount, (but keep it away from the edges) then weight them down for 8 hours. I suggest lightly scuffing up the rubber gloves with some fine grit sandpaper and cleaning them with alcohol in the area that you are going to attach them first. You might want to switch out the screws on your TD to the flat "pan-head" type for higher approvals.

Done! Sharp looking build, brother. I see a Centurion badge under your name in the near future!

I use a cordless (rechargeable)

Unless you are planning on using it extensively after your build, there is no need to go with the actual Dremel brand. There are alternatives you can buy that are much less expensive and work just as well. If there is a Harbor Freight near you, they carry one that will do the job nicely: https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-31-pc-60713.html or you can do a Google search for "rotary tool". As for accessories, you can buy a whole kit that includes the sanding drums for less than $14.00 here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pc-Rotary-Tool-Universal-Accessory-Set-Kit-Sanding-Polishing-Cutting-W-Case-/381980850752?hash=item58efd53a40:g:60UAAOSwCU1YsRW9 If you have never used a Dremel or rotary tool like this I would highly suggest practicing on scraps of ABS before starting on your actual armor. Keep the RPMs low at first, as these things can take out a chunk of plastic faster than you think, ruining your armor.

If you have latex hand guards, not sure why the E-6000 isn't working. You might want to try it this way: Slide a piece of wax paper inside (important). Use a liberal amount of the glue, spread it around (but not too close to the edges), place it on the glove, and put a fairly heavy flat weight on it for 24 hours. The glue needs to "soak" into the fabric to properly bond with it. If you have silicone hand guards, use clear silicone in place of the E-6000, and use the same steps.

Time for you to whip up a Lego E-11 finishing kit, Tino!

Looking GREAT, Jen! To piggyback on to Andrew's observation, I noticed that the return edge on the left top side of your butt-plate has been removed. Perhaps you could do that on the right side and try the boiling water method to curve it around a bit. (It looks as if you did this on the left). You may have to remove a small amount of the return edge on the bottom to accomplish this, though. Otherwise fantastic job, and I look forward to welcoming you to the rank of Centurion soon! Awesome to see you have one of Steve's (Gazmosis) holsters. Built like a tank!

You can't go wrong with RS Lan, but as mentioned it's always best to stick with the same armorer for your whole build because of variations in color which could affect your approval.

I noticed that you now have TKboots, which should last you a LONG time with proper care. As suggested, a clear polish should do the trick. Also, as Shane mentioned you should leave them out a day or so after a troop to prevent odors. The first thing I do after I get home from an event is put a set of shoe trees (as seen below) inside, which will help them keep their shape. ------------

I would suggest starting a build thread, Mike. That way, you can post photos of your white armor journey, and pics certainly help when you have a question. It also helps you keep everything in one place for reference. If you want to do it, here is a link to the right area http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/