justjoseph63

WOW! What can I say, James.. your attention to detail is fantastic, and I can't wait to see the finished product!! If I may make a suggestion, when it comes time for the tubing around the barrel I used 1/4 inch thick windshield washer hose. After looking everywhere for something to use on my Hyperfirm, I found it in an auto parts store, sold by the foot. I cut it into 12 inch sections (yours may differ) and glued it on using E-6000. The joins are at the bottom as no one sees them anyway. I used a few feet extra for the tube that extends along the side and over the top. Keep up the great work!!!!

GREAT tutorial, and smart thinking on using the propane torch, Zel... "where there's a will, there's a way! Another option is to purchase a soldering or woodburning iron. These are relatively inexpensive (less than 20 bucks) at Lowe's or or any craft store and you can use them not only make the holes, but seal the edges (to prevent fraying) as well. "(I plan on owning many shoulder bells in the future which I can swap in and out, each painted to represent a charity/ cause to support. Ex. rainbow shoulder bell for pride, puzzle shoulder bell for autism etc.)".... AWESOME idea!!!

Looking good, Mike! You may need to make a few of your photos a bit larger for your Centurion submission when that comes (to show some of the details) but great job on that build! I noticed that your sniper knee plate wants to get caught under your left thigh, but that is an easy fix. I had the exact same issue so I used a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 10 inch piece of "chair foam" and attached it to the inside of the front left calf. (vertically) Badda bing... problem fixed. I advise using Velcro to attach it, though, as it can (and will) absorb sweat and become smelly after a few troops. See you at level 2 soon, (and then Centurion) and I look forward to issuing you your EIB certificate!

Can we restore the "New recruits/Getting Started" section? It looks (from my point at least) as if the entire area has disappeared. I realize that this change was a lot of work, and that bugs will continue to require fixing, but if a first time visitor was to view the site, they would be somewhat lost.

1 hour ago, Locitus said:Reputation is the new word for "likes".I don't know why you weren't allowed to view the post though. Maybe it got deleted before you could look at it.That is peculiar... I viewed it yesterday. PLEASE don't say that it has been deleted! I put a ton of work into that, and with over 55,000 views it seems to be very useful. I tried to find it using the search tab with no luck. If it has been deleted can it be recovered?

I cannot even access my Photobucket account now and view my own photos without signing up for their program ($99.00 per year). Hundreds of images and pics lost forever. I have since gone to imgur.com (MUCH faster and easier to use) and started all over again.

Am I blind, or did the "Getting Started section", and the "New member Introductions" threads disappear? I also tried to click on the"Supply list for your TK build" thread and was again told I do not have permission to view it. This my thread!

I noticed that I had 2 Notifications, and when I clicked the icon 2 showed up. The first said "Somebody gave you a reputation for a new post..." When I selected it, it said the following: Sorry, there is a problem You do not have permission to view this content. Error code: 2F173/K Not sure what a Reputation" is...

Nice job on that RS armor, Charley! Looks like you will be aiming for Centurion after you get your EIB approval ( ) so there a few things I would recommend if I may. I would remove the paint from the cod rivet, paint the TD screw heads black, tighten up the gap between the shoulder bell and shoulder strap. All easy fixes. Again, great job, brother, and I'll see you at EIB soon!!

Outstanding job so far, James! This should be a great help to those aiming for HWT, which I am glad to hear you are heading for. (I may be just a bit biased, though...) As soon as you get your HWT approved, PM me and I will send you a patch! (below) If I can be of any help with your build or supplies, just let me know.

I would go with a basic gray, satin finish. Be sure to sand it down (220 grit or finer), clean it thoroughly, and hit it with a coat of primer before painting. When you get ready to paint, I recommend doing 3 or 4 light coats instead of 2 heavier ones. Also, allow 10 minutes or so (no more) between coats, otherwise it can cause it not to dry correctly and it will be sticky forever.

The details and quality are just not there and are far from accurate with Rubies products. For that price as a display piece it would work I guess, but as Brian mentioned it's really not worth it IMHO.

For the interior cover strips, you can use flat scraps from your trimming. They don't need to be pretty, just functional! The most important place you will need them is on the shins, which get a lot of flexing from opening and closing them frequently. I also noticed that you did a great job on the forearm openings. Hopefully you will be aiming for EIB and then Centurion, but even if you not I would remove the return edge on the "bump" as seen below.

You haven't provided any dimensions of your height/weight, Roy, but if it helps there is a new thread started here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42043-zels-anovos-stunt-build-for-the-mini-and-vertically-challenged/ which may help. Mandy goes into a few methods that could help you more custom tailor your armor.

GREAT job so far, Mandy! Glad to hear that Jay and other local TKs are helping you out. Heat guns can be scary to use, and you absolutely did the right thing. They can reach temperatures of over 1100 degrees fahrenheit and taking it slow like you did was the best way to go. You should post up a few photos of the finished pieces for those who are in the same boat. It may help to reduce (but not eliminate) the return edges on the back, kidney and cod pieces.

You will need to go to this thread, Mike: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ and include a link to your 501st profile. Hope this helps, and I look forward to Trooping with you sometime!

This thread was obviously not started as any sort of political discussion, just someone curious to find out if there were any other gay Troopers. Nothing more. No "agenda" or anything of the like. Although not gay myself, I would march in a gay pride parade, just as I would troop at a synagogue charity fundraiser if it was approved, even though I'm not Jewish. At the end of the day, we are all just shiny white spacemen (and women), out to add a few smiles to the world. Before leaving any sort of negative or potentially inflamatory comment, I would suggest reading the 501st Code of Conduct in the Operations Protocol area: http://databank.501st.com/databank/OperationsProtocol

Looking SHARP, Frank, and really nice job on the fixes!

"...this is a real open minded community with much love and support..." or "..hard to find any fellow LGBT people..". Which one are you referring to?

Looking good so far, Roy! If you haven't already, I would take a look at Tony's (ukswrath) Anovos TK build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Hopefully you will aiming for Centurion, and that will be a great help. You should also check out the approved Anovos submissions in the Request Centurion Status thread. (Link below) Look for the ones that have Anovos with a number behind them like this: (Anovos) (123). http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/

http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_commander

The Hengstler counter and power cylinders are required, but the other items were just suggestions.

Assuming you are going for ANH Stunt, you will need to add a real (or replica, usually made of resin) Hengstler counter and 2 power cylinders on top of the magazine, which should get you through to EIB. A great reference for all things E-11 related can be found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ You should also think about adding a bayonet lug. The opening for the charging handle slot is a bit wide, but there is probably not a lot you can do about that,and the number of coils in the recoil spring should be at least 10. (Hopefully you can get the end cap off).

Looking SHARP, Shane! The only thing that jumps out at me are the hovi-mic tips and the ear screws. The screen mesh should be of the coarse kind, and the screws should have a V shaped head. PM sent!

AWESOME job on this build, Juan! Your attention to detail is amazing, especially the paint job on your bucket! This should be an easy pass for you, brother, but I noticed something that may (or may not) have to be changed. The rivets on your thigh ammo pack look as if they are attached with "pop" rivets. (See photo) If these do need to be replaced it is an easy fix, and I would go with the split rivets, like the ones you used on your cod/ab kidney connections. After EIB approval, I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission!