justjoseph63

Looking great, Mark! Since you are aiming for Centurion (), you will need to take out all the return edges off of the wrist, especially in the "bump" area. Note the complete absence of one on all sides in the screen used one in the photo on the right. 2 minutes with a Dremel and you will be golden! Reference image

Blunders are all part of this crazy hobby, Jalob. I can't count the number of mistakes I made in my first armor and blaster builds, lol. I think the reason Tino suggested the title change it is that if someone is looking to also do a DD/pipe build in the future it makes it easier to find in the topics section. We all learn from each other's mishaps, which makes it easier for the next person. "Troopers helping Troopers"!

Excellent call, Tino! What about "Jakob's Doopydoos/pipe E-11 build" or something along those lines? I can change the title, just let me know what what you would like it to be, Jakob.

Looking AWESOME, Daniel! One of us will be with you shortly, but in can I ask what photo sharing site you are using? It won't let me copy any of them on imgur or Photoscape. Can you also post up a close-up photo of the sides of your drop boxes? Thanks!

With the eyeshadow you will not need to "set" it with anything. Like I mentioned, you may have to touch it up a bit once every 7-8 troops or so, but it stays on really well. If you uses fleece lined helmet bag, but sure to wrap your bucket in a plastic bag before inserting it, as it may rub off some. To remove the eyeshadow for shiny white trooping, just use a household degreaser like 409. Comes off easily! One of the best HWT weathering jobs I've seen is from my buddy Charles of the GA Garrison. Not too much, not too little: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30336-tk-72627-requesting-hwt-eib-status-fx3/?tab=comments#comment-388242

The holes look entirely too large, Jakob. .05 inches is about 14 mm, and they should be right at 1 cm.

Doopydoos certainly makes a great kit, Aine! I have built several, and there are hundreds of us who use them. I would highly suggest having your partner check out this thread, which will answer many of your questions: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ I'm not sure how "screen accurate" your partner wants to get, but they can get really close depending on how much time you want to put into it. For a more realistic look, I can highly suggest picking up one of Tino's E-11 finishing kits. Well worth every penny! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ Once it is painted, I recommend adding "weathering" to it in certain places with a bit of silver paint, which gives it that realistic look. Below are a few pics of mine to give you an idea You can pretty much weather any area except the T-tracks (the little "fins" around the barrel) and the handle. The scope can be weathered using some brass colored paint. Here are a few pics of mine to give you an idea: Close up pic showing the small details (screws and such) that are included in Tino's kit: I wish your partner all the best on their build, and if they should have any questions we are here to help!

There is no such thing as a 501st approved seller, and this is obviously a recast. I like the line "No painting, cutting or sanding needed", yet it will "Fit someone 5'5"-6'2". Seriously? lol. I suggest avoiding this, spending a bit more and going with one of the vetted sellers on page one of this thread as Dan recommended.

Looking phenomenal as always, Arthur! One of us will be with you shortly, brother.

Welcome, James, and fantastic to hear that you are headed for Centurion! Some great advice here so far, but at this point I would recommend getting Legion access here on the FISD. It will give you a few new areas to explore, and is a requirement before proceeding to level 2. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

Looks GREAT! Can't wait to see the finished product!

Perfect! We just need the additional photos and we can get started. Thanks!

Way to go Rodney!! Welcome to the ranks, brother!

Perfect, Roberto! I will need a few for photos from you, though.. Please post close-up pics of the following areas for me so that we can get started: 1. Vocoder 2. Bottom ear screw 3. Ab plate (showing buttons) 4. Rear of calves Thanks!!

Are you getting the DD full E-11 kit? The reason I ask is that it looks as if the Hengstler counter and scope should be replaced.

Did anyone notice that Deadpool's boots are on backward? Not on the wrong feet, but facing the wrong direction. lol.

Actually they can, and have. If you look closely, all of them were posted within a 3 day period, (red flag # 1). The "reviewers" have names like Jordan, David, etc. but if you read them, the language (syntax, gramar, spelling and punctuation) are obviously not from anyone whose primary language is English. The person(s) who own the site have obviously made those up, and would not add any negative ones. Also, shipping alone for a costume that size would be considerably more than the inclusive price they are charging. They count on people not wanting to return them because of the return shipping costs and hoops you have to jump through. At that price, they figure most people will be like "Well, it was only 30-50 bucks, so it's not worth the hassle". This way they can continue to rip people off.

Good observation!! You are correct. The paint is not supposed to cover the entire button.

Dan gave you a perfect example of a screen-used reference, Robert. Hopefully you used E-6000 to attach them! If it helps, I did the exact same thing on my first AM build. Took me a bit of work to get them off, but worth it in the end. Using that reference pic as a guids, I would trim them as seen below:

There are a lot of manufacturers of compression shirts/pants out there, and you can pay up to 90 bucks per per piece. I suggest going to eBay. Much cheaper! Just make sure there are no visible logos, stripes, etc. Shirt:---------- Pants: ----------- (These have a logo around the waistband, but the shirt can cover that). It doesn't have to be those sellers in particular, those are just examples. For the neck seal you can't go wrong with one of Darman's. They are custom made to order in any neck size and available with either a zipper or Velcro closure. I prefer the Velcro... much easier (for me at least) to secure. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/

Click on this link: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

Good call by Q! You will also need to click on that link and get 501st access here first before proceeding. It's usually pretty quick!

As for how to hold them in I would suggest Velcro. Trooping can will make you sweat (even with fans) and being able to remove them for cleaning is a must. Before permanently attaching any to the top, make sure you don't have a "bobblehead" look, and can see clearly below you (to a degree). In my first bucket I added padding to the top, and realized that my helmet sat too high and I was constantly tilting it forward just to see. I removed the padding in the top and voila. Having it on the sides is a given, as it hugs your head and allows the bucket to move when you turn your head. You don't really need a chinstrap, as you won't be able to bend over far enough for it to fall off!

Holy crow! I didn't realize that that second reference existed... COOL, and thanks for the link!

Nice job on those fixes, Rodney! Once you get the TD screws painted, please post up a pic and one of will be with you shortly thereafter!