TK bondservnt

as long as the metal is thick enough I suppose. sounds like you've got it all under control! can't wait to see one of these built up!

the great part about the evolution of the e-11 is that we have now finally found all the details from the wires and their type and path, to the cylinders, and finally the scope rails and mounting points for m38's and m19 scopes. here's a series of links you might find interesting: power cells wires a screen used blaster

making these international might be tough on lou's not being on the watch list. especially if he did a full mockup with bolt and inner barrel in metal. are you going to keep the bolt and front barrel separate so a person could have the cocking action? keep in mind lou that there's a retaining pin that is spring loaded inside the bolt, so when you cast it there will be a plug where the cocking handle would seat. you might want to disable that part of the bolt when you cast it, so that the cocking handle will fit. also would be a good idea just to make the whole bolt hollow to allow wires to pass. also if you make a metal tube it won't have the bayonet flat area. making them out of pvc thick wall electrical conduit allows for strength, details like the above mention, and just overall heavyness. a metal tube would have the luxury of being indestructable but would most likely be missing the bayonet detail.

and this is why I created my snap tutorial showing the application of white duct tape to the back of each snap. this in fact allows you to put glue on try this link! snap plates HIPS is really reactive to snaps and e-6000. abs leaves a light warp in some situations. glues that generate heat do do at different room temps, and such.

this blaster is really nice for when it came out. the attention to detail is really good. the only flaw is that the BBC plan that this is based upon has the cocking channel too long. it's about 1/2" too long, making the blaster about 6/8" too long. other than that, the details are pretty good. we applaud you for keeping up the flame on this project! it's probably the starting point for about 20% of the blasters in the legion back in those days.

ah!~ that's it... the mixture of two colors... that explains quite a lot!~

so did you use a rag with paint, or simply a brush? you started with basic flat, and then rubbed silver on the edges right? can you show any photos of your process in painting?

OMG. stunned!

all my points listed above are only suggestions. most people won't care! that's why they're listed as "insane" your paintwork is what completely sells this! your drybrushing looks like the real thing.

rock the TM brother!

almost absolutely perfect. better than mine. here's my list of insane suggestions! only things I would change is the height of the sight rail and the way it attaches to the rear. the wires are too thick and not put on the correct way the rear end cap lock is mounted forward too far outside the proper pin location. you should be very very proud of this blaster man! you kicked butt! your paintwork is almost perfect. love the screws showing and the little details that make the whole thing look like metal. wonderful job!

so far I've had to repaint the entire kit, with wetsanding passes. the limbs are done, and I had an auto body man work on some of it. there's a much more refined surface and we've added layers of clear, primer and finally paint to get the right color. as the kit is being wetsanded and primered, the surface is becoming more and more like a mirror. when the paint is finally applied to the whole surface and rubbed out and waxed you're going to be able to see massive reflections on this thing. the torso/ chest ab back kidney and helmet are all that's left to prime and wetsand. I'm far too busy on other people's work to finish my own armor, but I did order larger canvas belts to get this kit set up. I made my own shiny latex handplates, upgraded to a more accurate belt, and have my drop boxes with backs. it's getting closer and closer to clearance photos every month. I want to apply paint to the inside of the armor as well, for hips is just not very strong.

my point comes from looking at the site, and he's removing the gallery from his own site. we are very much in the clear for quite a while with mobile support, and forum support. after all the FISD is most likely the best forum in the legion. that's why I wanted to help develop color/movie specific designs to the base skin in 2013

the stuff in the photo gallery that we used from "Powered by Tutorials 1.4.3 © 2012, by Michael McCune" shows that even michael is moving away from supporting IPB. the tutorials and gallery section of this site is probably the best mod out there.... but eventually it will not even be used by michael on his own site... it reminds me of using coppermine in php nuke. and I must say I really do like the tutorials mod, and the gallery mod we're currently populating. the information on the fisd is just getting more and more easy to find, and easy to use. I just think people helping people is the basis of my suggestions here, and it's not impossible to help.

my point is that I could do graphics mods for my suggesions when the 2013 site skin launches. all the other stuff about servers and me putting up an ipb board mirror site would be a waste of resources. all I would need are the 2013 graphics in a folder, and then it's just a matter of loading that modified folder with changes to the css to launch a skin with the same layout, just using different colors and graphics. many skins don't use the same layout structure... I would use the same structure. I would not need access to the forum/ servers or anything. just the graphics folder. when the designs are final, I can simply make graphics using the same dimensions in different schemes. I would send my versions of the graphics to the design team, and then the team could test the icons and design, and simply make changes to the css to match the base color scheme. the site is very complex, with the addon's for photos, and the joomla setup for the wiki. ton's of work! I'm only suggesting that I could make a dent in making dark/light/ and movie specific designs that would not need to be a whole new skin... just a color mod and a movie specific mod to the helmet design, logo, and background everything else would be the same, menus buttons, layout... padding... all the same... just different color schemes.

I've asked about being part of the design team about 3 years ago. not one person said- sure... give it a go. but that's before some of us even joined the site. I own a server with unlimited space, and bandwidth... but that also was rejected... must be nice to pay for a dedicated server. I know... I helped to pay for it? if anyone wanted me to help to make icons or buttons or backgrounds I'd sure be happy to help. and I'd simply need to have the skeleton base files that will be put in place to make the proper changes from that base. then I could do skinning of the final design. but I'd have to have all the fisd specific stylesheet directions, and a 'mod list' with all the proper code loaded into a plain jane skin. it might be more practical just to send the icons and graphics folder to me and I could make the color changes on the existing 2013 icons/graphs. design teams don't say "make your own version and we'll look at it" they work together to make things happen. any design team I've ever been on is open source, and clearly documented. do we have that resource here? when the 2013 design is finalized I'd be happy to help skin modifications to it. the first thing I'd do is make light and dark versions of the existing skin, then I'd do movie specific versions with different helmet icons, and top logo and background. and then I'd just apply the light and dark schemes to the last two film skins. but I would need the files to create a 'mirror' site that I could populate, and test to benchmark any skins I could help with. if I had the icon folder, I could start by making anh esb and rotj style icons. then I'd do site specific icons and buttons. I guess the best way to help would be to send me the graphics folders used in the final 2013 version and then I could work on the variations. then it's just a matter of stylesheets css and any other mods that the base skin would have. the anh skin is going to look interesting with the CRL menu on the left... can't wait to see how it's going to look!

it's just a suggestion. I didn't forget the menu graphics, or the icons. it's just a series ov elements. as long as you have the base design fixed, then it's just color schemes and small changes to icon colors and backgrounds and top logo. but I guess a few helmet logos, a stylesheet and a logo and background. is a lot of stuff? taking a negative stance is not part of my suggestion. but I suppose that confrontation is the best answer for basic suggestions... and then it's always convenient to fall back to "we're busy" blah blah blah. I guess it's better to make it look like a conflict rather than just a suggestion. I've been watching this forum change skins since 2008... yeah... I know it's not easy. it's just my suggestion to make the site gentle to the eyes, and readable. custom graphics is what makes skins possible. I'm not trying to debate that. I just think that having light/dark skins, and movie based skins was the development I see in the 'new hope' skin currently on site.

I have modified TPL files and logos and such for skins in php nuke joomla IP board and other php based sites I have at least 15 years experience in website design and video production. it's a stylesheet, and the basic skin and some small color adjusted graphics. with a new color set, and a basic background and top logo switch it's not as hard as you make it sound! I've done it before. so a dark/light background for each film color scheme helmet icons it's just a copy of itself with different colors and a few icon changes. as soon as you have the skeleton, it's just paint (css) I'm sure that the css classes are pretty extensive and overlays (icons) .

the new hope theme is quite hard to get used to! it would be really cool, and I think you guys are going to do: white for each film dark for each film a new hope empire jedi would be cool to have a grey and white new hope for 'white' and a gold and black/grey for 'dark' new hopes.

sounds like a plan! the inside diameter and making a bolt assembly with a stronger rear bolt design, and a better recoil buffer design would be fun? are you planning to make a bolt and buffer assembly with a stronger cocking handle design? I've always thought that resin weapons should have pewter triggers, guards and bolts and cocking handles. a bolt with an open center to allow wires to travel is the thing I've always wanted in a casting.

I personally would go with trooperbay stencils since they are from the real thing. mike does a lot of painstaking work to create his stuff. you can even get 'hand painted look' or idealized stuff. thats the reason why trooperbay exists... because he didn't just Bang up his stuff off the top of his head... he actually used on location in person measurements and color matching. it's a no brainer for a TE derived lid. (ap ata te ect.)

a sterling is not 1.25 inches. ( thanks lou for making it clear that your pipe is the outer diameter of 1.5 with a rating of 1.25 see his post below. ) that is WAY too small. the electrical conduit I use from lowes, is exactly the correct dimensions you can get for a PVC pipe. if you needed to make it exact then you'd have to use metal pipe. don't fall into the trap of too small. the 38mm pipe that I use has a thick wall, and the internal bolt is the only element that would need to be made smaller in diameter if you're using sterling cast parts. and if you made the pvc thinner by sanding it, or on a lathe, then you would be able to bend the pipe in your hands. in the photo above we have lowes electrical conduit. lowes rake T Tracks made from a leaf rake. end of tube sanded down to fit end cap. inner barrel assembly, sight rail and hengstler bracket. note how the pvc is larger, but fits the curve of the grips, and magwell perfectly on the doopy mk1 kit. the cartridge deflector and front offset cresent parts fit perfectly on the 1.50 OD pipe. so really in casting original sterling parts, doopy did a great job of making these really hard to fit parts sit perfectly flat on tubes like this. the rear and front sights are also a great example of 'scaling' to fit existing pvc. the doopy kit mk1 has major modifications done to it, so that it scaled to the different pipe size. it was designed to be 'scaled to fit' existing pvc types available in the UK. so we have different schedules for pipe sizes. the doopy mk 2 version is different since it's not based upon a pipe. you're going to run into needing to use metal pipe to get the right size if you cast directly from the sterling parts. some interesting photos showing the original end cap and doopy in comparison. note how the end cap lug is only a few MM larger than the base tube on a sterling, so we don't measure a real pipe at the end cap lug. the end cap lug is created by using a thick walled base tube, then they milled down the entire rest of the receiver cause I sure don't see a weld line at the rear cap lug. it's all one part. started as a larger wall thickness tube, then made smaller in diameter as a part of production.

I have original parts for T Tracks , scope and metal socket counter? if you ever need them! m40 and small brass eagle

hillman 1/4" screws at lowes in the drawer! yep!

pugman is 100%