TK bondservnt

ok... i'm working on it! photos soon!

thanks andy and john! keep looking as the thread is growing!

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nice catch! I believe rogue studio friend has one of the blasters in your photos! used on the falcon, in tunisia and now again in ESB! soon we'll have another screen matched blaster!

overall it's a well done piece... some weathering suggestions: scope: brass, lightly weathered, with some 'transparent' areas of black and small edging showing brass hengstler counter: front section is brass, weathered, but the front clip is black plastic, and the tips (if they were there would be aluminum) rear is grey or tan plastic. grip with trigger group: grip itself is glossy black plastic. no silver should be present. T Tracks: black plastic only. no texture or wear should show. body of gun should show only slight wear and be gunmetal/pewter, areas of slight wear and rust showing only very little. overall texture of the body of the blaster should be attempting to simulate zinc phosphate parkerized finish painted flat black. areas of wear in the paint can show layers of different blacks, down to the gunmetal. a layer of primerlike rust can be used around minimal wear to simulate layers of wear.

here's a post with some fun stuff on scopes and counters click photo for link to thread. click photo for link to thread.

the stunt promo blaster has no front barrel detail. so any blaster you see in ANH and ESB with no front barrel detail IS a promo blaster this screenshot is showing promoblasters in regular TK hands. so not only snowtroopers used them.

at first you might really think it's cool, but when you get it in hand, and you compare it with the "real thing" you'll notice the difference.

For my 4000th FISD forum post instead of my opinion, I thought I'd share some real stuff to entertain and enlighten! here are photos of scopes: in the photos we have m38 scopes and an m40 scope. most people figure that m38's all have a curved front foot. also most feel that the M40 always has a square front foot. as you can see there are lot's of interesting variations. comparison photo from the RPF http://rpf.exoray.co...pes_compare.jpg clearly shows that m40 and m38 scopes have the same features depening on the year of manufacture. info on how to remove the base from a real scope, if you get one and it's has a base on it. first step second step Hengstler counters: here's a series of plastic socket versions with different logos: some have all white numbers in a curved bezel, and some have white/yellow numbers. here's a series of metal socket eagle and H logo variations. some have curved bezels and others have flat bezel viewports. soon I'll add posts to this thread showing how to take each of them apart, and how to take the back case off. Metal Socket Eagle taken apart: descriptions and better photos soon!

getting on the waiting list is simple. the AP ready to wear kits come in two different styles basic, and trooper. the basic version is a very simple style of assembly, using abs weld and very minimal strapping. pros: orders come out fast and the internal strapping can be upgraded on your own. cons: harder to tailor, and not EIB or centurion ready knee plate is riveted. the trooper version has suspenders, snap plate construction and comes with options for upgrading the helmet. this version uses e-6000 to assemble all parts, so it can be taken apart and tailored/ repaired. pros: durable and troopable snap plate style internal strapping, with velcro shins, thighs closures, ready to tailor. cons: orders take much longer due to the complexity of the internals, and the drying time of the assembly process. knee plate is riveted. the AP ready to wear option is not intended for EIB or Centurion levels, if a trooper wants to go to those levels of accuracy then they should purchase a trimmed kit, and build from there. the knee plate, side rivets and other helmet details are not done to EIB or Centurion standards, just base 501 acceptance. they don't glue the knee, or provide split rivets or brads. so if you're going for that level of standards it's best to order the correct option.

charles does it again.

the belt distances are cannon, but if you're a larger person than cannon, I'd move the belt so that it hangs just behind your hip, and not directly on your hip.

I painted mine by hand

vocoder is really bad! but those frown teeth look really silly!

decals are not trooperbay

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Zd_khk6zXo and now back to our blaster tthread no derail intended

keep in mind that the spring steel will cast too thick to fit, so you'll have to modify the clip stop so that it will fit into the magwell. the design of the part is to put pressure with the spring steel on the side of the magwell. so you should sand the casting when you're getting ready to make the final part taking off some of the slope on the wedge. if you need I can put an arrow on the area to sand to fit. otherwise the casting will be too thick to fit with the clip, and the stop inside the mag well. actually cutting down the clip might be according to your local gun law. in california having a 32rnd mag is a crime in itself. what is the law in NY? I'd bet cutting it down is better in your area.

when you cut off the clip, you don't cut off the end with the "off arrow" logo. you have to cut off the clip by moving the "off arrow" logo down to the area with the clip stop. also have to cut down the inner spring to fit here's how I did it: wrap duct tape around the area to cut. (I use one curve and 1/2) this way the clip has one full curved area and 1/2 of a curved area from the clip stop, to the off arrow end of the clip. in the photos above you can see the distance from the end of the clip stop, to the 'off arrow' end of the clip. once you have this area chosen (and I did quite a bit of research) then you cut off the end of the clip like this: where the duct tape wraps around you need to cut the wide parts first- this will be bent into a flange for the clip "off arrow" cap. after you've cut the wide part of the clip, then you need to cut the narrow sides simply follow the duct tape and take off the front and back. after the clip has been cut, you take the "off arrow" clip and look at the distance of the rolled over edge. with this as your guide, take a pair of pliars with a square tip, you bend the flange out and upwards from the top and bottom, creating the flange on top and bottom. this shortens the clip. you can use the cut off end as a guide for bending the flanges to look like the original. in the above photos the fitting is so tight I had to use a hammer to seat the "off arrow" clip. and the clip fully works and probably could even have dummy rounds put in. and finally how it looks when it's seated in the magwell.

I would ask troopermaster to make you one! that's the best path right now! it's like a box with a strip, and a rivet and washer, with a switch, and a keyring holder. not much to it, if you vac form.

I have a clip with the stop on it like jonathon and all you need to do with the rear sight is flip the sight so the switch leaves metal down on it's front edge. so you'd cast the sight with it so the lever is facing forwards. this allows thesight rail to sit on top of the rear sight lever.

there was a maker here have to look! yeah wonder what happened to him!

you don't have the clip stop on yours? sight rails sit better on rear sights with the sight flipped the other way? adds height for seating!

SICK!

with this type of detail we're gonna have a winner! just make sure you keep making many molds i'd make like 3 molds at a time! of everything! don't make the clip too small! that looks about right!

he's going to cast the inner barrel as well. so he's talking about making that hollow. I just use 3/4" pvc pipe.