TK bondservnt

I did not assemble the suit with the finishing strips over the overlaps. the overlaps are trimmed off. my biceps, and arms are fitted that way because my arms are too large for armor trimmed any other way. I have armor bites on my biceps, and forearms. every time I wear it. if you look at some people's thighs in the EIB program you can clearly see large shims on their backs, while mine don't have any shims at all. if I cut off the overlaps on my forearms, and biceps my arms would not fit inside them. I am 5 11" and thick in the shoulders, arms and chest. my legs are skinny, but my torso is short. my neck is also so short that my helmet does not allow me to fully turn my head.

ABS is the most durable. HIPS is not. cutting using the score and snap method produces the cleanest cut, depending upon your skill. this is done with a "box cutter" a dremel tool is not really much better. it's all depending upon your personal choice. cutting ABS with any type of tool is much more forgiving because of the rubber content. HIPS is thinner, and more brittle than ABS. it is more reactive to heat from a cutting wheel, or a drill bit. hips also reacts with glue, and metals. so making snap tabs with e-6000 and metal snaps can produce heat warping from the inside of hips armor. which then needs to be corrected with fillers, and paint. ABS on the other hand does not react to heat from tools, or glues. it also has the distinction of never needing paint. having made armors from both ABS and HIPS. I would say that it will take at least a month and a half to make an HIPS kit. and you could do the ABS kit in 4 weeks. my 2 cents. hope this helps you make the choice.

well, in these photos the photographer is standing a little closer, and the shots are taller. so in the ESB eib photoset the shots are taken from a lower aspect than these photos. it makes everything look squished at the bottom, and wider at the top. it's one of the first things I noticed about the photos. like looking a little down, has changed the angle so all the parts look a little different. and the lighting has also changed from the previous photoset, as the light temperature of the bulbs has been changed to a more "white" rather than blue color temp.

action shot is blurry because I'm 100 feet away from Han and Luke in the background. yeah... and I have a bridge to sell ya in san francisco...

what a great price. sold. PM me for shipping and handling charges.

suit has changed. comments removed.

its just fine to share, even if it's already been discussed.

The original suits made from ABS are very flexible compared to some of our modern armor makers. so that completely explains why harrison ford can sit down in armor. actually he's just "standing up" in the horizontal position. the shin armor on some suits was attached at the back with elastic and hooks. so in some situations the armor opens up. so that explains the open backs in the tantive 4 scene. these details have already been discussed at length. good to see that you've noticed them as well. happy screencaping! AP and TM Abs suits can stand up to that kind of bending...

my rank bar will be added after the setup gets approved! thanks for the positive note brian!

Features: AP armor - home made latex stunt style hand armor - real hengstler - real scope. mike's decals, correct colors for stunt. keith's hovi mix. another holster and belt. stunt style fitting on rear shin (undersuit shows in gap) this assembly varies from my previous photosets with a new helmet, hand armor, belt and blaster features.

O all cracked up!

I dont think it's a good idea to polish it BEFORE you assemble it? after yeah... but before would make it more difficult for your glue to set.

very nice work! I believe that all the extra work you put into it makes it look really good, yet I've never felt that lids need that much reinforcement and interior work. that is really going the extra custom step. great work on the vocoder details. those sharp points inside the bumps really hit their mark well! I'm not really a fan of the fifth tooth.. but yours looks very balanced... shows what can happen when you paint up an AP... sweet.

my 2 cents. TM armor's finish is completely amazing- for example! AP armor takes a bit of work. nothing compared to the expense, time and work of painting.

it looks like the bolt and cocking handle are in the rear position? does that mean that your bolt assembly slides inside the tube? looking pretty good so far!

I would not get the type of armor that you need to paint. TM or AP is the best choice in my opinion for armor. you should get TM for ANH/ESB, and AP for ROTJ

without that taper it would be really close to the blastech. only thing missing is the internal circular curve. looks pretty good. let's see a photo with em glued down?

dont get the stormtrooper costumes.com one. the other one is much better. AP armor all the way! imperial canada!

I would go with the danter hero ears. spot on!

when I look at the photos I see a fabric type material across the texture of the part. the edges, and under area are also appear to be lined with tan velcro, or rubber strapping. I agree completely with this: and I also agree that the rivets and variations are probably a quick repair, or a subtle change in materials in the prop dept. if a person were to use armor straps, vynal straps, or fabric straps they all would have a source in photos to use as a basis for it. prop replication would involve copying either the tour design,or the screen used design. some would have rivets, and some would not. it would be up to the trooper.

congrats andy for your wedding! I"m very very happy with my amazing scope and hengstler! I have the APEX kit and soon you'll witness another sterling rebuild! happy day!

put the C channel tracks in the kit and I'm ordering up ASAP!

keep the faith sister. your true brothers are behind you 100% having good communication with a buyer before the sale in several E-mails

if you attach the bells a little forward on your connecting straps, instead of in the center top... then you should be able to also attach your biceps so that it puts pressure and tends towards the front.

hello there mike, it looks like all you have to do is adjust your belt just a tad. it should only fit over the kidney plate. the butt plate should sit close as possible to the kidney, and with the belt moved it should sit fine. don't attach from the butt plate to the front, it just hangs from the kidney and attaches to the AB underneath. the elastic from the back plate to the front plate is a very good idea for keeping the back plate tight, and the chest plate tight. you should also attach the chest plate and the AB plate in the center. other than that and your shims, you should be fine. hope this helps.