TK bondservnt

nice job!

it's almost 100.00 usd with shipping. takes a lot of the work out of making a build!

in this order starting from best to least expensive: TM AP ATA ABS ATA styrene/hips

wow close to the original. actually you can look at the film and see the difference. they didn't find hard plastic in a dumpster. the only thing wrong with your metal track is that the T shape does not fully bend into the hole.

rubber is not used on any T Track on a screen used prop. ----------

rubber is not used on any T Track on a screen used prop.

hello michel... the T Tracks on the screen used blasters are HARD plastic.

perhaps someone can confirm these measurements, as I'm not the final word here. this is based upon the BBC template and it's measurements. been working well for me for every build so far.

this is based upon leaving the top hole open for the sight rail. also showing the dimensions for filling the top last hole and mounting the sight rail differently than usual. see track 3 ** the most common way of mounting the sight rail was to mount it to the last top hole on the sterling. sterlings did not come with a sight rail, so a steel 3/4" flat bar was cut and notched to the front hole at the top of the sight rail. the sight rail was then either screwed through the rear sight block, or the sight rail was angled and it was riveted to the body in front of the rear sight. can anyone show a screen used blaster photo where the blaster sight rail is not mounted into the front hole? I can't wait for the blu ray release and the chance to get full screecaps of every TK blaster in all the films. T Tracks are not soft rubber. they represent cooling fins. they are hard plastic tracks. ---------

how about a combination certificate allowing multiple EIB and centurion status?

the base bump texture is a good idea. then the layers of color for each part. it's not all silver and black details. brass, steel and gunmetal are the colors you want to use. the scope is brass but the number rings are anodized black. the scope body is brass. the hengstler front is brass except for the front clip. the rear of the hengstler is a tan very close to grey. the bolt and bottom of the trigger group are gunmetal. the trigger, and guard are anodized black. the grip is gloss black. the overall texture is a bumpy pattern as the result of parkerization. crinkle paint was applied to some promo versions, but the majority of blasters were painted flat black on the body tube. this photo shows the scope and hengstler brass ----------- I hit the blaster with matte clear to tone down the shine, but it adds strength to the surface... this photo has the shine which helps to show the proper texture before the matte coat.

the T Tracks are different lengths based upon the position of the track: starting from the open row of holes and going over the top- starting at the left side open row with bayonet lug Track 1 6.5 inches from hole edge to hole edge- track length should be 7" Track 2 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 3 5 3/4 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 3/8" (this measurement leaves the TOP hole open for the sight rail.) 6.5 inches from HTH with top hole filled 7 1/8" T Track 4 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 5 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" Track 6 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" ending at the right side.

usually the way to make them fit best is so that they are un cut, and are glued to the front. Han solo has 5-6 ribs glued down. and luke has a different number. you can make them fit by taping the chest and back as close together as possible and keep the chest plate tight against your neck and up high. then bend your shoulder straps into a horseshoe shape and then decide where to glue the fronts down. you need to keep everything aligned at this step! how the entire armor fits depends upon these little details you can choose... don't be tempted to cut the end off... that makes the armor look bad. the language about how they are fitted starts with base 501st requirements, and then progresses into different requirements starting with Expert infantry, and then centurion.

125.00 for the apex sterling parts kit. not a bad deal, minus the clip. now just imagine how tough it was to get a 32 rnd clip in california! I had to have a trooper buy it for me and send it cut down.

hopefully you didn't damage it. sounds like you formed it... how did the inside hold up? dye kept it's color? shrinkage? any thoughts on oiling it?

I have a strange combination- green plastic acetate and one way mirror film for glass. makes for a sunglasses space suit style lens that is flexible just like thin gel acetate.

holsters are supposed to flop around. soaking leather in water will cause it to roll and buckle. hope you don't damage the finish! and the threads can wear out if soaked too long. best way to stiffen leather is with leather supplies! in the original film the holster is not thick at all like a gun holster, it's supposed to flop around!! I have both thick and thin versions for troopers who want each type. the thin version has a slight texture to it, and the thick version I sell has a smooth finish. the inside of the hide on both types has a suede type of texture. remember, leather is not just fabric... it's alive! the tanning process has a lot to do with how long it will last. doing anything like soaking in water will most likely ruin it!

looks pretty centurion worthy from here!

mike sure can help you out karin! bulk orders handled from mike's shop!~ USA solved!

you can see from andy's old hengstlers that the number plate is much different. I am lucky enough to have the brass socket hengstler eagle from andy. the number plate on mine is all white numbers on black wheels. I also have 3 with the eagle 2 screw version with 2 yellow numbers on the right hand side. there is also the non eagle version with the numbers 611 embossed in brass. see the 890 versions above... those are even more different. all in all we seem to have a lot more than just 3 versions of hengstler...

have you tried tk 4510's stencils? just hand paint em!

I use screw posts. they look like rivets.

TK's only miss when they are ordered not to kill certain targets. death star troopers were ordered to lead the terrorists back to the docking bay, to allow the tracking device to lead lord vader to the rebel base. TK's would be a great resource these days...

he painted the bucket, so he can't use thinner to remove them.

best way is to sand them off, and repaint and then use a masking technique to correct the bleed through. the real key when using stencils is to hand paint them carefully and remove them before the paint fully cures. then to tick off any mistakes with an exacto razor knife.