TK bondservnt

smooth-on has lot's of great examples. brush on mold, 2 part molds, mold boxes and materials. casting is not easy, it generates heat, some types of materials require a vac chamber, to remove air, and it's expensive.

screenshots show return edges on armor... there are several areas that you can see returns on the chest, back top of ab, top of kidney, bottom of back, across the top of shins and kneeplate, edges and bottom of thighs. top of elbow on forearm (on some suits.)

the sides of the dropboxes are white... with the front being grey.

1/4" is best to use, at 1/2" it would be too long. I also drill the Ab plate in the center, this allows the chicago screw to keep the belt in place, by attaching the plastic, canvas, and ab plate all together.

looks like your AB button plate is a little short? from looking... did you try to fit it? your handplates should look more curved, the sides are too deep. you cut too much off them, in front, and the back should be curved. to fix the problem go screen accurate and ditch the plastic for latex. otherwise everything else looks like you are doing ok. look at screen shots from the film for the backplate and chestplate.

resist urge... step away from the paypal button slowly... back... back...

plastic window screen. it comes in black grey and silver. with no mesh you need a baclava

andrew anisworth sent one of these off to get painted. or maybe in a dream.

gaff tape em in. then you can remove em to clean.

retrobright? are you going to immerse your old FX armor in peroxide? how many gallons of retrobright would it take to immerse armor? way more than a computer case. and I quote from the retrobright website page below with info on how to make retrobright.

looks like a great solution for a bracket! make sure you put it close to the magwell... not too far back! the hengstler also can have a small run of tape to keep the wheel platen from vibrating and having a number slip. and I usually set the hengstler with a small screw

it's really a judgement call at this point on your extra flashing, it might make the helmet look better with a test fit of the trim over the top of the wrinkled material. ATA lids are much larger in the neck opening than lets say a stock AP cut. the goal here is to leave some on, as scott suggests, then you can test fit the neck trim and go from there.

T cut is for CAR clear coat finishes. it ADDS COLOR? DONT" USE T CUT. use NOVUS polish on uncoated plastics. if you use T Cut on coated plastic it will remove the UV layer. novus will also remove yellowing and it will keep the original color intact.

lf the boots have a seam in the front and are shiny then those are CA boots. the better boot is located at www.tkboots.com

you don't need to remove the "hengstler counter box" unless you're going ESB. this was my little disclaimer note in my previous posts... sorry for the confusion.

opps... esb... hack that sucker off. and you still need to take off the lower T Tracks on this photo... this shows 7 tracks... you still need to remove the lower right side. you're right boss...well I did add my little disclaimer... unless it's esb... it's hard to read my fine print sometimes. minus 100 imperials to my account.

yeah... but don't do it. please upgrade your fx kit. if you want to.

once you get the trooping bug you might have wanted to upgrade from the start... as brian says...

For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. you don't need to remove the "hengstler counter box" unless you're going ESB. "blue bold letters" for hasbro conversions.

210 at 510? waist of 36 ok I'm 220 511 waist of 39. where is all the weight? we don't measure at the smallest part of our waist... we have to measure at the LARGEST part since armor does not fit like a pair of pants sliding under the gut. so my armor measure in armor is 42" waist.

do not go with FX. the helmet soon might not be approved. the chest arms backplate and all armor parts are made for VERY LARGE people. if you're 6.4" tall and 250 lbs with a 43" waist and 30" thighs and 18" calves then you'd be better off and more accurate if you purchased RT mod or AM. RT mod can even tailor your legs and arms parts to fit. see the suggested sellers at our "getting started" section http://www.whitearmo...showtopic=11538 if you're 5,11 or shorter, have a 35-37" waist, 12" forearms and a 40" chest, with an 15-17" neck you can fit inside SCREEN ACCURATE armors. RS props, ATA, AP, TM

I would not put them on those gloves? why go the extra mile on latex, when you won't be accurate with those? wearing a cotton liner inside the rubber works quite well. you might think it's nice and comfortable... I just think you'd be more accurate if you wore the proper material and wore a liner for the comfort factor. if you're shooting for EIB or centurion, then you should go 'all the way;' my 2 cents. plus fabric gloves are not approvable? Gloves For 501st approval: Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. CLOTH IS NOT MENTIONED at all in the CRL. I can see your skin color though them. only ESB allows silk gloves. it's SA for esb, but it's not in the CRLS.

pix Apply, repeat. repeat until all costumes approved.

THE armor is FX armor it's not screen accurate. don't buy it.