TK bondservnt

thanks karin... those are the standard gaps at the rear... especially the right side. building a lid is always a challenge... nice work!

ok... so what you're saying is that the line should be sanded off? that's a little over the top for me. a little easier to do in photoshop than to do it with novus polish for 10 hours you said you were gonna go all photoshop on me... nice try my friend! it was even a litte funny in fact. hey wayne... I'd like to see the backs of your lids. it's all a learning experience isn't it? ok... now everyone add to your post count here. cmon wayne... lets see those rear helmet shots. and thanks mathias for the lens aspect of this conversation. I just noted that her lid has the standard Ap acetate. which I like by the way. all in good fun right?

nice lids... can we see the backs! I'm not gonna pick your lids apart...they are fine. flashing, gaps and all... much different than an idealized treatment.

that's correct rob... from the vocoder to the ears it's an 'idealized' treatment. the main reason why the top of the ear needed to be fat on this cut is because the faceplate is rotated downwards about 1/2" on each side, requiring a 1/4" extra material on the tube sections of the ear. the neck opening is also smaller as a result, the neck is almost 3/4" smaller diameter. I think the eye cut is very SA with darker welders lenses gaffed into place. this allows them to sit flush. if they were screwed in, then the edges pucker. look at this photo: if I had cut off the extra material there would be a 1/4" gap!!! here's my observations on karin's lid... and it's nice looking because of some of the wonkyness but here's my happy observations about the details on her lid keep in mind I do like the look she has tubestripes too close to cheeks at ears. vocoder is unbalanced on the right outer- makes it look very SA. (sometimes being off is accurate!) fifth tooth paint could have been left off on right side (very rare SA element, another thing that makes it look cool!) eye flashing could do with a trim (again a screen accurate element that most people don't have the courage to do@! wonky eyes are for prop replicators!)) screen accurate lens acetate. (not 501 approved, but still cool!) hovi mix tips? are they sskunky tips? look a little like ATA tips... hard to see from this angle. all I need to see is the back of karin's ears and I could give more compliments on the overall beauty that comes from a wonky screen accurate lid. if a trooper wants even more accuracy they can put makeup on their lid and chestplate you know... that tan/yellow grime as seen on the tantive IV? karin has done a really nice job of capturing the SA look here.

I've seen plenty of lids in my day... even RS props lids with fat ears... and nobody seems to notice that. the main reason why the ears are thicker is because in a high brow situation the faceplate is rotated down. if I want no gaps in front or back you have to leave more materiel on the front, and take less off the back. this creates the need for a thicker front at the tubes on each ear. the owner of the bucket thinks it's beautiful because it has so little gap.

ear rank is in front? or do I see two ear ranks? only contrast I must also suggest is that this is a low brow for his build. my build is for a high brow. see... it changes the ear trim on the vertical axis for the lower part of the tube. and also the rear changes when you rotate the faceplate into the high brow position. it's almost a 4mm difference in rotation which causes an increase in thickness of the ear on the front vertical axis. when you do a high brow ap helmet the neck opening also shrinks by over an inch. since the faceplate has changed the angle of the ears the neck opening and the overall shape of the face itself. that's why it has thicker ears people... it's not a low brow Ap. all your comparison photos show a low brow cut.

I love it when people have heart. well done.

and I was simply challenging wayne to a photo show off... no worries.

post 15 dear lady.

look at the new photos karin... don't they show the story? I figured the angles would show my point better than the single photo at the top of the thread. post 15 has the new angles.

cmon wayne... put photos of your helmet in this thread... it's a challenge among friends.

thanks karin...I guess my ears should be see through. gaps where I can totally see though the lid at the ears are correct then. again this is not a "prop replication" lid it's a lid where I don't want to see though the ears.

perhaps now you can see why there is a thicker ear.

Left hand RED

ok opinions fly like smiles around here... someone likes the eyes... but someone else does not... I love how some dude with 100 posts is suddenly an expert. would you all like to see how freakin huge the gaps would be on this lid if I trim it so screen accurate? I could show you a photo of my eye looking though the ear.

150 posts vs thousands. give up now. is this a challenge? wayne? put photos of your bucket in this thread wayne... otherwise shut it.

in the high brow configuration the ears have to be thick to have no gaps. wayne... you'd have to see the difference between the HUGE gap of a screen used helmet and the type I show here. this is not an attempt to be SA... this is a minimal gap high brow helmet. if I did a high brow, and trimmed to the screen accurate lines you'd be able to see completely through the helmet in high lighting situatons. since we're not on a dark movie set I don't want see through ears. critics are not always in line with the intended result. this is not a prop replication, it's an idealized lid.

it looks too tapered to me. I'd like to see it with the shims and finishing strip? are your legs smaller than the armor? or larger?

ears are thick at the bottom on purpose... since it's a high brow you need more ears to let it settle down. eyes are to the buck line, and are anh style. they have the proper droop at the top, and are cut exactly to the line. the vocoder paint job is based upon the most used ANH style, and I know what you're talking about. the outer lines are painted differently on many buckets. this is more of the ANH style than lets say an ESB style... on some buckets the vocoder is thicker. this is the type I like to use. the U shaped trim on the bottom was according to the maker's suggestion... I was going to use S trim, but I was asked to leave the U shape on. I go with scootch on this... all the other opinions are noted... but it's a "bucket" See how the vocoder paint on the hero bucket on the left is different than the stunt on the right. my paintjob is probably more "hero" style... my signature's vocoder is a little taller on the outside, and I think I'm going to make my vocoders just a little taller on the outsides... by only about 1/4" I really like the vocoder on the left better than the thick one on the right. also notice the huge shadow gaps on these helmet ears... you can see right though the ear caps on each side. I don't like to make my buckets with SA ear trim because on screen it's a shadow... but at a convention it's just going to be a see though ear. not for me!

starting from the index I can't get the new content button to change timeframes. it simply stays on "since my last visit" and won't allow any other search option. firefox with the latest skin.

no ear gap, higher brow helmet.

I think your build looks pretty darn good walt!

you can use a lighter, a gas stove, a hair dryer, or a heat gun. just dont get it too hot... slightly warm is all you need.

hokey pokey TWISTER! right foot on GREEN

I love the hokey poky ref in this thread. ok now STAND ON YOUR HEAD AND SPIN.. no? oh sorry... this is real life.. not a video game.