ukswrath

Correct

At one time did the Stunt and Hero CRLs state in the hand plates section that at basic the hand guards can be held on by and elastic strap around the glove, or has it always stated directly mounted to the glove? If directly mounted I'm assuming velcro is excepted at L1 and L2 but Glue is required for L3. If this is correct it should also be stated on the CRL so people are not confused.

Joseph, there's nothing wrong with selling double cap rivets.

RS suit photos, let it do the talking.

Ok I'll check it later when I've got a chance and Andrew can answer this too if he's feeling up to it.

Well double cap rivets were used on canon armor. The CRL policy has always been "What can be seen from the outside". Single cap, double cap, split, etc. The head on the outside is what's seen. EDIT: Where is this question posted?

Beautiful! nice work Jeff

Awesome looking good

Excellent job Matthew

Unless you need the return edge for some reason trim it down to about 1/8" thickness.

Nice!

I've seen some photos of this armor and I'm very interested in seeing more.

Oh heck yea, this would be awesome. Can't tell you how many times I've hovered my mouse over the bars just to see if something new would appear lol. Would that be the definition of insanity? Excellent ideas Here's to old dudes Cheers

Congrats Eric

He posted 4 up

We've had plenty of weathered troopers apply for both EIB and Cent, we may tell them from time to time to go get cleaned up, but never have we requested they do so or no approval. Natural weathering like dirt, scuff marks or scratches are expected. Now, if someone shows up and looks like they been in a firefight for a week straight MEPD may want them in their detachment. Be careful what we wish for is all I'm saying.

If we allow weathering how would you word it?

People can do whatever they want with their armor, it's their armor. When applying for any level keep it clean. Once we add weathering to the CRL then the MEPD may want it.

Copy

I have a question, so unless a specific character is always dirty like the HWT, TD or R1TK are we adding weathering to give people options with their armor? We all know the TD is a dirty TK except for specific armor components which sets it apart. Why are we adding weathering to armor that would naturally get dirty over the course of a day but most likely be cleaned up after use, again options?

ah hahaha

The canon spats at glued to the shins or at least held in place with some type of epoxy. I use 3 small strips of Velcro. A 1/4" x 1" in the front and the other two left and right rear, evenly spaced. Place the Velcro at the top edge, obviously On another note I'm not THE Guru, there are plenty others but thanks for the kind words and feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

Hey Joshua, welcome and thank you for your EIB application. Let's take a look. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: Thank you for making the updates to some required elements as suggested by your follow troopers. That said, it appears all the required submission photos have been posted. Your armor displays all necessary element as set out in the level 2 CRL, Congratulations. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestion affects any application, it will be listed separately in the above or below sections. We have a few areas to go over so let's get started. As we go through these keep in mind the accuracy of your armor is ultimately up to you. Starting with the helmet, we're suggesting you revisit almost every painted section. We understand for most individuals painting can be challenging. We've used your photos to illustrate the areas needing touch up. Most, if not all the lines need to be cleaned up. The frown should be similar on each side as well. We've provided reference photos below you can use as a focal point. Reference photos It's hard to tell from the current photo angle however, the interior of your hovi tips should be white. Reference photo As we move down the shoulder bells should be almost touching. From the front they look great, from the rear then need adjustment. At minimum the connecting straps need to be tightened up and removing more of the lower bell return edge should draw them in even closer. Reference photo Next up there should be minimal gap between the back and kidney plates. Tightening up the connecting should draw them closer. Reference photo The space between the forearm and biceps differs between arms. We're suggesting you make the needed adjustment to make them similar. Reference photo Continuing downwards, the TD appears to be sitting very high on the waist belt. It should roughly sit in the middle. Refer to reference photo provided Reference photo The upper waist belt ammo box should reside at or just below the lower Ab buttons. THis will need to be adjusted. Reference photo Drop boxes either too thick or not correctly assembled. The box thickness should be roughly 12-15mm. Trimming these a bit should do the trick. Reference photo Posterior should reside under the kidney plate. Tightening the strapping should resolve this. Reference photo Sniper knee. As illustrated in the following photos knee edges are a little thick. We're suggesting you trim them down like so. Reference photos And lastly it appears the right thigh front cover strip is too long. Similar to the left thigh it should stop just above the lower return edge. The photo you've provided isn't very clear so if we're wrong please disregard. Reference photo Centurion Suggestions: In this section we prepare you the best we can for Centurion. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. If we had anything to add here it would be to ensure your waist belt drop boxes are aligned with the outer edge on your ammo belt. Reference photo Thank you for a perfect application, and congratulations once again.

Technically yes

Alright Frank, congrats and welcome broother