TK 2759

All is looking well here! Great Job! Keep in mind sniper plate is going to be added to top of left shin.

You've done an awesome job so far! Hope you can go for SWAT over there. Door is always open for you to come and go as you please, and please do keep in touch!

For closing thighs, shins, forearms, and biceps I have Velcro... I use snaps for shoulder bells, and a snap for the biceps to attach to bells. Bells snap to bridges. As to the ab and kidney plate, butt plate is held to kidney by Velcro, snap between cod and butt. I use 4 snaps to hold 4 pieces of strapping, this crosses over in back, and is a suspender system to hold ab/kidney in place. Then I attach back and chest... for thighs I use a garter system, but they too are held by snaps. I use Velcro at sides of an/kidney to keep closed. Some troops may be an hour, but most are for 4 I've found... Depends on how long you wish to stay in armour for, I think...

I'm from Toronto, but prefer Irish beers... Or micro breweries.

Also, I read that in regards to strapping systems, it's not a requirement for Centurion, but as I said above, gives one peace of mind to know they have a suit comparably strapped like that of '77

If there's nothing on the CRL about it, it's not a requirement, just gives you peace of mind that you have a screen accurate suit...

Is this like one of those Where's Waldo? Things?

Yea, I'm not too fond of this method though...

I would have superglued Velcro the Eva foam, and then stuck Velcro where I wanted the foam to be placed... Makes it easier if you don't want it in there, to remove later.

Not sure about shocking the masses that wear the binders... I still think you should try to find that store that you couldn't find, for the rare earth magnets. You'd be surprised on how strong they are, I've seen no other magnet, short of electronic, stronger. Why the long wait for your armour, when others have theirs in hand?

A good set of brushes will go far... I used to paint led miniatures, for Dungeons and Dragons, if anyone remembers those. Lots of fine details, including eyes. Yes, I have a steady hand... All painting, no matter what kind, money on brushes is worth it!

I believe so... That's the one that'd be hidden to the public eye. From experience, you'll never have to open the forearms, although I've only seen one TK do this...

Everything looking awesome! Really great work on the items in pictures.<br><br> Ab plate buttons - good advice from airborn trooper. <br><br> Looking forward to seeing it all together.

All looks good to me... Tears need stripes though...

Ok so, why is it not assembled already?

All looks good so far, may need some abs paste for that crack though...

Welcome to the FISD!

This is the listing for all of Ontario for rare earth magnets, it can be expanded to include all of Canada.----------

Just waiting for pictures... Lol

No holes in an, use snap plates, and glue them to inside of an plate, and other armour pieces that require snaps...

For ANH biceps, the top of them will be covered by the shoulder bell... May want to keep this in mind...

I only knew of the doopydoo conversion kit... Shows what I know when it comes to blasters lol

I think all you need is one, but better safe than sorry... Doubt you'll get any scratches while trooping... I think most scratches come from the trimming.

Wait until it falls off, then add support later?

E-11 Blaster&lt;br&gt;<br><br> For 501st approval:&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br><br> For level two certification (if applicable):&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Folding stock (does not need to function).&lt;br&gt;<br><br> A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> D-ring mounted on the rear.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).&lt;br&gt;<br><br> If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> For level three certification (if applicable):&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.<br><br><br><br><br> According to CRL above, conversions and hasbro blasters are not centurion approved...