fuumantroop

Okay so i pulled the trigger on a set of 8 Ultrafire Li-Ion AA 3.7v batteries. I plan on using 3 of these to power my 12v setup. It will total 11.1v. The 8 pack was cheap, and are rated at 2300 mAh, it will also give me 2 sets(1 as a backup, along with 2 extras). It was impossible to source batteries with a good enough mAh rating locally for a decent price, so ebay it is. The batteries and the charger should all be in my possesion by Thursday, so i should have time to get them charged up and ready for the biggest convention down here in Houston, Comicpalooza. I originally would have liked to get LiFePo4 batteries, but good affordable ones all seem to come from China, and would not get to me until next month. Tomorrow im going to pick up a single AA battery holder and get it installed into my bucket to prepare for the convention. Also have to try o finish mu DLT19 and get my tk trigger board ready to go(just need to find me an ethernet cable).

That makes more sense. Do AAAs run out quicker than AAs though? I am a noob to electronics

Im not sure im following the math on that. if i were to switch to 2 3xAAA holders, that would equal 9v(6x1.5=9v). From talking to another friend, he was recommending LiFePo4 rechargeable batteries due to the higher "safe" running temperature compared to the Li-Ion batteries. When i run 4 AA, the fans only get 6v of power, therefore underpowering them by 6v. I can definitely tell the difference between the airflow there, or lack there of. The fans i have have a db rating of 25dba at 6000 rpm and cfm of 5.84.

Gotcha. So it seems like my best option is to pick up some ultrafires and change my battery connector to a single AA. Could i keep on of my 2xAA connectors hooked up and only swap out the other for a single AA hookup? My power configuration would then be a 2xAA connected in series with a 1xAA connector. Is this okay to do?

Anyone had experiences using LiFePo4 rechargeable AA batteries in their TK bucket for the fans? Im using a design like echos, using dual 12v blower fans. Currently, i have been using 2xAA and 1x9v to power them, but it just doesn't last that long, maybe 2-3 hours max. I have used 4xAAs before, but in the texas heat, it just doesnt blow as nice as the 2xAA and 1 9v(its like air conditioning and the fans i use arent loud at all at that voltage). I spoke to a sales man at a local battery store. He recommended maybe using the LiFePo4 rechargeable AAs(rated at 3.3v). He does have those in stock, but no charger(kinda pointless right?). So im looking online to source either those, or even the UltraFire 3.7v AAs, and just mod the electronic config of my fan set up with 3 single AA connectors, or a 2xaa connector and a 1 aa connector. I just dont know what to do! Any tech savy people out there that could help me?

Looks great! Ill have progress pics up soon, life has been a lottle hectic for me lately

I have some of those as well. Im referring to the rubber gloves that i attached the latex handguards to. I like trooping with those at times because of better knuckle mobility lol.

Lol thats what i figured. My right glove is still good, so i guess ill at least buy another pair to replace the left one and hope that if any tear again its the right one next time lol. May end up having to go up a size anyways to fit my glove liners a little better anyways, ill just bring em to the store with me to do some test fitting.

Ok, so am i the only one with the issue of tearing my rubber gloves? I just ripped another glove(two of them now), while suiting up for a troop Saturday. Luckily i carry my nomex gloves as a backup as well, but i wanted to use my rubber gloves to give my triggee board a test run, and they fit best while wearing my rubber gloves. Is there a specific brand that is truly more "tear proof/resistant" that i should just go out and buy? Or continue the roulette game of when my glove will tear. I use the rubber chemical gloves at home depot that are $7-8.

Also, how was the armor attached? Snaps and straps? Or velcro?

Lol thanks for sharing yalls feedback. Yall looked amazing for sure!

How did mobility differ from the classic TK? It seems like it would be a tad better, but im just curious. That really sucks about the smelly helmets, you would think they would take the time to ensure they had no odor at all, but im sure they were just as pressed for time as the builders. It appears the armor buckles together, or at least had greeblies on the armor that made it appear as it does. Was it functional at all? Im interested in one of these kits, but like anything that comes out new these days, im sure there are some bugs that need to be fixed.

I believe the screen used ones used the bakelite stocks. But don't quote me on that!

Much much better! Shouldn't be long now!

Thanks Ed! Im hoping so! Still figuring out the front and rear sights. I have the base cut out of wood, i just have to shape them and determine where to attach them. Probably hold off on them until i get the bipod installed and holes drilled out at least, i may recut the butt stock extension as well to sit better on the build a blaster. Anyways, heres the full length picture of where i am at right now

:/ i wish i was there!!!!!!!! Everyone loves pie!!!!

After considering my options for a dlt 19 to use with my tk, and hwt conversion one day, i decided to go the cheapest route possible to venture into my options. I took what i have learned from the hasbro e11 dlt 19 conversion, TKEdt, and also the DLT-19 advanced weaponry subtopic, and implemented my own mods to what i call the ultimate poorboy dlt 19. So here it goes. Using the "build a blaster" as my basis for design, i gathered some couplings and some 1-1/4" pvc to begin assembly. Heres some test fitting Here i am messing with different lengths of pipe for the main barrels. In the hasbro conversion, i felt that the 10" in the back, and 6" in the front lead to an overall length that was just too noticeably small. So, i swapped the back end for 14.5"(instead of 10"), and in this pic the front was about 8". I didn't like how the front was fit, so i went ahead and swapped it back out for the 6" length. I also went ahead and added a little detail for this fitting, using painters tape to secure any loose ends, just for the sake of test fitting(i want my overall length to replicate the advanced weaponry length as close as possible, while keeping the components as proportionate as possible as well). Also, i extended the butt stock connection slightly, using 1-1/2" pvc cut to match the build a blaster connection to the stock as close as possible as well. I do not want to use bondo at this time, mainly because I don't have it handy, and as this build isn't 100% accurate to begin with, I didn't want to exceed my $40 budget on this build, as this is just an option for fun more than accuracy. So heres the new fittings. I machined down the coupling connection the 14.5" pvc to the 6" pvc both at the OD and length using a CNC lathe(perks of being a machinist), and i also went ahead and connected the flash suppressor(used an Equate brand mouthwash cap for the end, along with a 1/2 slip on/1/2 threaded coupling and a threaded reducer) so that i can get a more accurate over all length. Not exactly to length of the advanced weaponry references of the mg34 measurements, but as i stated before, this blaster needs to look proportionate more than 100% accurate. I used closetmaids 12" shelf support brackets to create a fake, and non functional, bipod as well. Here i have used an old and broken TK ammo belt rectangle to create a cover And here, i found an old handle from a drill press(from work that is no longer needed or used at all), as my handle I also have carved the 3 sights out of wood, also will be non functional, and made out of scrap wood i had laying around, which will be attached once i get the vent holes drilled throughout the pipe, and have everything else sitting nice and pretty. Ive stressed it before, and i will stress it again...i know this is not the absolute most accurate build/mod ever, but it will be troopable and will be close enough for my purposes when it is completed. Always open to criticism, questions, and/or concerns with this and any project i endeavor, so shoot away if you must

Armor looks great! But the blaster needs some work as mentioned above. Your folding stock looks a little droopy for a doopy as well. The scope rail also looks like its a little high, although if its under 1/2" i think you'll be fine. Best of luck trooper!

Looking good!

Great looking build! Good luck trooper!

Thanks Ed! I used a modified piece of 1-1/2" pvc for the stock extension. Measures right at 46".

Here's mine so far. Right at 46", but 50" if the ladies ask

------------ Theres the link for the templates, all i need is the holes for the barrels really, although having the templates for all 3 of the sights would help out as well to check my sizing. Ill try unzipping at my home computer and bringing them to work via flashdrive. I honestly don't know why I didn't think of that before.

Id be printing from work, don't think im able to download programs on our computers there :/

Anyone have a pdf of this? My winzip trial expired, i just need a pdf or something so i can print out just the barrel holes for my dlt. Sorry if this is a repost, all the templates i found wont open without winzip, or are just old and dont work