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netslave

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by netslave

  1. I'm not too worried about anything I've seen. Getting excited for the build. 1) the TD is acceptable per the CRL for basic, and can be changed for higher levels. 2) The belt/holster, small patches behind the open holes on the belt will be just fine. Even if there were holes, there's nothing in the CRL that says holes can't exist. Only that there are a max two attachments. But still, patches will be fine and won't even be noticeable. To put it in perspective: We have troopers walking around with 4-5" wide gaps between the ab and kidney plates, a couple of 1mm holes in a belt shouldn't stop anyone from being approved.
  2. I'm just barely starting. I plan on taking an old sheet, wrapping it around my wife in costume, pinning it in place, and cutting it to shape. But I'll start a new thread on that when I do. Just offering a possible starting point.
  3. Also.... Are you going to include the foil tape on the shins?
  4. For the cape shape, here's what I'll be starting with. After playing around with a black series TK and a napkin, I think it's pretty close to this. So the longer side is roughly the same height as the trooper, and then cut the shorter side to match where it should lay about knee height. With a contoured cut around the neck area.
  5. The knees seem to be upside-down compared to the TFA TK. Check the D23 and Vanity Fair photos and compare them to the TFA TK's knees.
  6. Yeah, I expect that the designation will change. Might be a good idea just to give some distinction to the FO Troopers.
  7. Maybe switching to a Tie Reserve would help. Honestly, outside of taking the butt off and making the thighs collapsible/flexible, I don't what you could do. For me, the butt plate isn't the problem, it's how the tops of the thighs poke into my legs as I try and move to a sitting position.
  8. ^^ Should work. Or just go TD. We're WAY cooler.
  9. Bottom line, it will cost a LOT more to make your own armor from scratch than to buy a kit. This is an expensive hobby. But there are a lot of other options that may work out better. You could throw together a pretty good jawa or sandperson costume for less investment. It may not meet the 501st standards, but it would be a masked character and people love it. I have a non-approvable jawa. Might even befriend a local 501st member and see if you could borrow a set for the premiere.
  10. My wife had a resin Scout Holdout blaster that she's dropped a few times getting it in and out of her holster and parts have broken off. I have two doopy e11 kits waiting for me to build, but I'm not sold that they will end up being my forever trooping weapons do to the fact that I've heard their resin may be more brittle than others. I can't verify that though, but you can but it together pretty solidly. Just be careful. I DO highly recommend a hyperfirm though. I have a hyperfirm DLT-19 and it's indestructible. I love giving it to little kids to hold for a picture and not have to worry about it. Even their B-grades are awesome. So my recommendation, get the doopy, and make it centurion level but keep it safe, then buy a Hyperfirm B Grade E-11 for trooping. Or Just buy a centurion level Hyperfirm and be done.
  11. I was glad to see the video just to get an idea of what the kits will be like. It's nice to know what to expect.
  12. I have my screen paused to this exact moment and was about to post this.
  13. Burninate the armor! I'd say just trim conservatively until you're happy with it. try and maintain as much of the return edges that you can and if you have to trim more, you always can later. Way easier to take plastic away than to add it back. For the helmet, make sure you do plenty of test fits as you go. And test fit the ears a lot to make sure your seams are hidden behind the ears. If you trim the dome part too much before getting an idea of how the ears will fit, you may regret it.
  14. My bank account just froze in anticipation of purchasing one of these..... Looks outstanding!
  15. Does the SoCal Garrison have a facebook group for recruits? That's how we do it in Star Garrison. That way, we can connect with people looking to build, but they don't spam up our actual forums that are primarily used for event registration and garrison merchandise.
  16. Requesting 501st access for TD 10602 http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19015
  17. I have their email auto text me when it comes in, so I can't miss it.
  18. As of 10:08am Central Time. http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp
  19. After getting the Stanley, and being able to compare them, I exchanged them for the Husky boxes. The Husky is so much stronger, and the handle moves in and out better. Plus it seals where the Stanley does not. I'm not sure why anyone would have picked the Stanley over the Husky, if able to compare side to side.
  20. Good to hear. Sign me up when you're ready to reveal.
  21. I bought the stanley bin at Home Depot for $68. I was going to go the Husky route, but when my wife saw the engraved name plates on the 501st forums that fit the stanley bin, that did it for me. Either way, I'm sure both are just fine, and at $68 and $64, it's no big deal which you choose.
  22. A TK or similar costume doesn't have the problem that a TB or TS does. There's a lot of airflow that an aid in coong with a TK. Hydration is key, yes. But sweating only works to cool your body when it can evaporate from your skin. This is why moisture wicking material for an undersuit works well. If you can't allow the sweat to evaporate, all you're doing is losing water. Drinking cold water to cool off is a great way to cool your core, but you'll eventually sweat that out too. My whole idea up there is for helping a TB or TS with their woes, and to limit the actual NEED to sweat as much. Or with the air flow tubes, aid in the evaporation of that sweat so it's more effective. If the water cooled system worked well enough, there wouldn't be a lot of excess moisture to have to escape. The vest would be breathable, so, if you did sweat a lot, it would go into the same place your sweat always does, the fabric of the costume. As for removing the heat, that's where the waterblock, heat sink, and fans come into play. Both the TB and TS have backpack areas that allow for some hardware. We'd have to get creative to find a good exhaust port for the heat, but I think it's doable. Under the greeblies on the TB backpack or out the holes drilled into the circles of the TS backpack for instance. Maybe even repurpose the Thermal Detonator on the TK, but it would be tough to maintain screen accuracy. I realize its a pipe dream, but I love tinkering so I'm just experimenting. I think that the best (and cheapest) option will be forced airflow into the suit. If you had small tubes running maybe to your arm pits, a couple around your torso, and one down your back, with the use of helmet fans as well, you'd feel a lot cooler, and it would aid constant hydration by allowing the sweat to actually evaporate a little. The only issue I see is carrying enough battery power to handle the system. I recently just bought a 12v 'squirrel cage' blower fan that can fit in the back of a TK, and it moves a ton of air. Install a couple of those and we're in business. Getting a nice breeze under the suit would be a great start to helping everyone stay cool.
  23. This is kind of the idea I've been throwing around. ------------
  24. I think I may end up, in the future, cutting out some of the boxes on the Ab section, and replacing them with better sized boxes/buttons. But for now, I think I'm good with what I have going for now.
  25. This is one thing I aimed to make look better on my armor. I needed to widen the thighs anyway, so for the thighs and shins, I placed the 'overlap' strips side by side, and then widened the back to fit my legs. Then, I bondoed the entire front and back strip section, essentially evening out the place where the overlap molded section is. In hindsight, I probably should have just cut them out and replaced with a better shim, but C'est la vie. In any case, I now have thighs and shins that look like one solid piece all the way around (but the shins still separate in back to allow me to put it on), and I'm now gluing on cover strips that are the correct size. Like I said, I'm not worried about trying to make it Centurion level. Just trying to figure out what more, past the EIB standards, I can do to make it look the best I can.
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