T-Jay

The sound of the Imperial Probe Droid could be an indication, that John Boyega plays a wanted person (for whatever reason). Maybe he turned away from the Empire or stole some armor to infiltrate it... However, this would also explain his complete behaviour in this scene. He definitely looks chased.

Yes, looks like a lot more movability in these legs. 3rd picture isn't blaster bottom. It's the top view, as you can see the scope and the magazine on the side. Image is a bit confusing, as it might be mirrored (not clear yet).

What a nice idea!

Yes, the thin top end of the walls can be shielded with something heat resistant to prevent these to warp.

Funny - I was just about to recommend warming up the resin for bringing it in shape Did that on my build in 2 ways: with a heat gun (carefully) and with a hot water bath. Both worked fine and the resin became more flexible. The only problem is to keep it in that new shape while it cools down. @ Aaron: Wow, builds like these (or Brian's) were in my mind back in April when I said to Tim (DarkCMF): Just imagine what people could achieve in their future builds, when combining the best mods into a single blaster. I remember Brain (Bulldog44) wrote something similar recently. And again this leads me to the idea to create some kind of blaster build guide or manual, containing all of our so-far-done-mods for every single part. People could then individually go for the mod they like the most, depending on their skills, options and build type. Sure, this would definitely cause a few organizing and picture-owning issues for some persons. But I think it would be a benefit to countless more people, as this is a heavily frequented forum and resin kits are also chosen very often. That would avoid so many mistakes before even being made… So if there seems to be a need for such a thing, maybe we should stick our heads together to find a way to realise this... Back to the future-build

Wow, hard to believe the majority of parts is made from wood. Very well done!

Aaaah, somehow this feels like Christmas - just one month too early

@ Bernd (Bone): Agree to all you said. Might be more than gaffer tape and the image could be mirrored. Very nice work on your last picture update . While clearly seeing the scope rail, rear sight, end cap and the part framed in blue (it's not for the folding stock, it's to lock the end cap), I did not recognise the counter until you showed your last picture. B.t.w.: that counter in pic 2 somehow looks very familiar to me I don't think these 2 parallel marks on the main barrel show the spring, because these are too far down (the slot for the cocking handle is located a bit higher). And if the image is mirriored, these would be on the wrong side anyway. If you could mirror that first picture left to right, it might help to bring us closer...

Seen the teaser a few times now. Although still being not sure about the whole thing, I am pretty happy they gave us some views of the TKs. Thanks for all the screenshots here! Good work. The armor itself looks vac formed. Big gaps between all parts indicate better movement abilities. This might also be the reason for the smaller shoulder bells. Lower legs appear quite big. The "O II" on the back looks a bit strange (but easy to realize) and a lot of sharp edges were reduced and rounded. The whole thing lost a lot of its old contours and got some small new ones instead. These will surely be nice for weathering. Karin (Sonnenschein) will not be happy about these hand guards. The old ones really looked more interesting. These are - very simple. The helmet of course will become an issue of its own to reproduce this. To me it looks too much like a motor cycle helmet, but at least the guy who made this recently out of steel (you might have seen that video on youtube) can now be happy because he did the right one The question remains, if there will really be only one mic tip (or however it'll be called on these) on the left side of the helmet. The frames with the 6 troopers standing in line don't answer this yet. The undersuit will be much more work in future. Although the ribbed surface will surely only be placed where it is visible, it will increase the efforts of reproducing, the price and the sweat you'll be loosing in these. But most of us will like the classic and familiar look around the neck. Did anyone already spot if it's velcro or zipper closed? The blaster still seems to be a modified Sterling with some parts now being painted in white. You can clearly see the familiar magazine (Steve, get ready for more demand on these), although it has been moved to the other side of the blaster. No more power cylinders and Hengstlers. Shape of rear sight is changed, as well as the complete scope. Chromed parts on the scope? Really? Two red digital displays will bring some electronics into every future builds of these. Oh dear . Did someone else see white gaffer tape on the right forearm of that trooper holding the blaster??? Looks like it was placed there to avoid scratches from the end cap...

No matter how you are going to do this, your helmet will definitely look better on the inside. The only problem is (as James already stated) the moisture inside. For a display piece flocking will be okay, but if it's your helmet and you are going to wear it and troop with it, I would suggest to stay with black spray paint.

Only one day left for the real thing to come...

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): Yes the velcro on the shoulder bridges is not screen accurate (and not allowed in current Centurion CRLs), but I didn't like how these looked from the rear side. Most important (as to all of my modifications): it can get removed in case of going for rough screen accurate one day... The neckseals for the stunts looked different, but I checked all offers and Chris had the best looking material. That surface convinced me! And the overall quality was higher than I had expected. Thumbs up for this nice piece. @ Ian (Sith Lord): Thanks Ian, really appreciated. This is just because I was shocked of how the real screen used suits looked like. Maybe I start liking that look in a few years and begin to undo all my modifications

Update 05: - minor optimizations and the undersuit It's been a while since the last update, because I was busy with new completion sets for the E-11 blaster. Now here are the latest pictures. As you can see in the last picture (taken with flashlight), due to the black interior and the balaclava, nobody will see anything when standing behind and watching straight into the bucket. So, every required part is now here with me and all preparation work has been done. The next update will show the full armor.

My DoopyDoo's kit arrived 10 months ago and didn't have this scope rail any more, but a lot of additional parts for blaster building can be found on Derrek's list. Sorry Brian, for hijacking this.

Hey Ian, somehow missed your thread until now. Good work so far, really like it. Waiting for your next update... (following)

Wow, I'm going crazy on the details of this inner bolt and your power cylinders reminded me of the days I did mine . Will you add wires to the front of the three central capacitors?

Wow Aaron, what a freaky idea!!! The structure of the carbon fibre really looks nice (and very individual). What a shame it needs to get painted black at some later point - or do you plan to leave it visible? I am very exited to see how this build will go on... You mentioned "mish-mash of extra parts" so will the other parts be made from metal or resin, plastic...?

That inner bolt is so damn cool.

Hey Brian, that folding stock looks really stable and your ejection port is still my favorite . Can’t wait to see that one finished. Incredible work also with the aluminium plating. What a nice idea! Compare some measurements from Andy’s power cylinders with your build - especially the dimensions of the end caps . Scope lens looks very nice.

Hey, good preparation done! If you continue like that (and you surely will), I'm absolutely confident you'll get a perfect result.

Wow nice find, Paul. Where is that picture from? The gaps at the knees look like they can only stand and walk - but not stairs Am I wrong, or is the trooper in the middle (of the three troopers in the foreground) just an unsharp mirrored copy from the trooper on the left side? Okay, the angle of the guns is different, but nearly all reflections on the suit are the same.

@ Andrew (Sly11): Indeed, Steve's magazines look really great. Can only recommend these. But it all depends on which of the 3 types of screen used guns you are heading for. As Germain recently pointed out here, the DoopyDoo's magazine (which I thought is incorrect) has been screen used! And for the Bapty version (from the Deserttroopers) you'll need a wooden block . As said: it all depends on the type of gun. @ Brian (Bulldog44): You are doing good work so far and I am still fascinated by the realistic appearance of the inner bolt (looks like two separate parts). Following...

Hey Ruben, you seem to be one of the precise guys . I really appreciate that and I'm happy to help in both ways, with my build thread and by answering questions. Glad to hear you fit the lenses and your summary is absolute correct! You can find my answers below in blue: -Apply plastic primer to all plastic and ABS parts. It was very liquid, so a quick light layer should be enough. Yes! -Apply silver coat. I guess it can be a little bit thick, in order to avoid exposing the ABS when sanding? Absolutely. -Apply hammered coat and paper dab it. Anthracite is a good color. Yep! Now, I guess you applied a thick layer of this? Not thin, not thick - but fully covering. Do you immediately dab it or you wait for some time? Immediately. Do you use a clean paper each time or do you continue using the same painted piece of paper? Use the same as long as it leaves a nice texture. By the way, I find the idea of paper dabbing (among others from you) amazing Paper dabbing comes from Felice -Now, tricky point. Update #14. You weather it with sandpaper and you apply the candle wax, only to the visible silver? to the sanded areas? in different spots like in the sight? Candle wax on all parts where you want the current color to stay visible: if you cover the dabbed paint, it will later look, like if just the last layer (black) got scratched off. If you cover the silver and remove the wax after the last paint layer, it will later look like a much deeper scratch or paint chip. -Apply satin matte black. Remove wax and go on with sandpaper, no risk of exposing the ABS? Sand very carefully and not all the way through your silver layer. What do you do with the Humbrol Metal Cote, dry-brush or retouching? This can be used for both and gives different results, depending on the technique. Hope this helped a bit . Feel free to ask your questions at any time, either here or in a private message (that might be better for some special details). Hope you'll have the same unexpected fun as I had Good luck!

Aargh! I recently found an old metal part from the UK, which looked somewhat correct, but didn't find this thread again to post pictures of it. Now I found the thread and checked the link to the Gary Kurtz Joiner Archive (it wasn't posted at my last visit) just to discover, mine doesn't look correct . Anyway, in case your build doesn't work for some reason, here is what I found for you Dan: ----------

@ Bernd (Bone) and Paul (troopermaster): Of course the different materials have different shades of white. These will never be the same, no matter what I do. And that's okay to me. The weathering on the hand guards worked fine and it's just a minor color difference. All fine with that, but not with the color of the boots: in electric light they look like some red was added to the white color when the leather got dyed. For a display in a room (with electric light) this looks a bit strange. So all I am trying is to remove this reddish tone (which is not visible on the pictures here).