T-Jay

This rear stock makes your blaster even longer It currently looks pretty massive compared to the rest of the gun, but I guess that will change with the later additions (like scope and so on...)

Update #11 - Lucky number eleven For a while I thought about the new serial number for this build. Well, that blaster is an E-11. And it is the 11th one I build. This is update #11 and the build started last November (month 11). Therefore I decided to replace the KR126277 with TJ201511. When the power cylinders are added, we will only see the „11“ - Lucky Number Eleven Those neodym magnets are really strong and it makes a big difference if you add or remove just one. Started with 1 in the magazine and 1 in the mag well. Absolutely insufficient. Then tried 2 & 2 what felt a bit weak, while 2 & 3 worked good. It now takes a believable strength to unplug the magazine. Have not tried 3 & 3 but I would expect this to be too much. In the beginning I planned to cover the magnets with a thin layer of green stuff to hide them. Due to adding more magnets later, the drill holes filled up and now do not leave enough space for this. Maybe I just go with black paint… Because of all the movable parts, here is a little video: Have a nice weekend everybody

Thank you guys! Glad to see the work and time spent into this build has at least not been wasted Chris, I really like the clip as it was and would not say that any measurement was “wrong”. The aluminum channel can also get squeezed a bit to reduce the gaps. No silver available anymore? Thought this to be the best choice for parts in stressed areas, in case the paint comes off.

Charlene, in case you are talking about the thin area behind the hovi mic tips, there is a common mod to fix this by adding a little cloth piece, soaked with CA glue.

Hi Mark and welcome to the FISD. As far as I know, there are only very few alternative counters that match the size of a Hengstler. Almost no chance on ebay. You can check the "For Sale or Trade - Personal Items" section, or contact Blue Snaggletooth. Maybe he can help. Real Hengstlers got expensive during the last 2 years, but a few members made some nice conversions or scratch build counters with number rolls from different counters (see here).

Very interesting. Curious to see how this will look when you're done...

So good to see what you are doing to this... Keep it up, Steve!

I second that! Congratulations, Tim

Bill, that screw head is 7.30 mm in diameter, slotted and slightly domed. Will send you a new one tomorrow. Please let me know if your address has changed since last year, May.

Hi Brian, Doopy Doo's offers a resin kit to upgrade the Hasbro blaster and here you can see how that works on the Disney blaster: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35081-tk-jays-disneydoos-e-11-build/ Regarding being out of stock: you can leave your email address to get notified when the item is available again. But you have to be quick then... Hope this helps

Hi Hector, welcome to the FISD. Depending on your skills, you could build this part from scratch (with an ABS sheet for example). Or you could try to get a resin counter to completely cover that opening with a more accurate part.

Update #10 - Slowly crawling forward In the meantime I had contacted Chris (maninthesuitcase) who recently offered his 3D-creations and ordered some parts via shapeways. He made them available in 3 colors, so I took one in each color (a closer inspection on the power cylinders will follow in a later update). The „sandpaper surface“ is the same on every part, but can be seen best on the silver T-clip. Of course that tells nothing about the accuracy of Chris‘ work, as the problem could have also been caused by incorrectly transferring the drill hole to the aluminum channel. If doing this mod again, I would however drill the channel to exactly match the new T-clip Back in my first build, Aaron (usaeatt2) had posted a video to show, how the locking mechanism for the end cap works. Below is a short video of mine: What do you think? Not sure if I will have a new update ready for next weekend, but I try my best. And thanks again Chris, for offering your files

Chris, thanks for double checking. I contacted Dennis (tr00per) and he immediately helped. A slightly altered version of his photo got added to chapter #31 (Measurements). Thanks Brian. Just trying to realize the full potential of this blaster kit

Damn - that was fast

Incredible find - and very interesting: he says his tracks are asymmetrical...

Thanks very much Ian If you contact Derrek (Dday) he will surely help you with that. Aaron, thanks for your kind words and confirmation on the D-shape. Your front muzzle with rolled edge is just WOW As discussed in our PMs, I would love to introduce one in this build. Thanks Brian. To hollow the end cap (for placement of the ring holder) I definitely used the wrong tools. But that was all I had available. Maybe someday we get a resin copy of an end cap with that indentation – or with the ring holder attached… Aaron? Derrek? Thanks Dan. I try to keep it like this through all the updates... Ehm, is that a good or bad sign? Chris, this was recently posted by Dennis (tr00per) and should help to answer your question.

Update #09 - The end (cap) is near As mentioned last time, it goes on with the external resin parts. Tackling this build from back to front, today’s progress is about the ring holder, end cap and tube adapter. Would have been easier to drill those 3 holes into the aluminum receiver BEFORE adding the fragile resin adapter for the end cap… (although not being sure, if they are D-shaped or circular). Had more work on these few parts than expected. But I guess, that‘s what this hobby is all about. So… Thanks for reading.

The open bolt already is my personal favorite modification on this build. Wondering how many people will think it is a real Sterling with rounds… Mike, thanks for doing some research on the voltage and your PM about that. Indeed, placement in the pistol grip is something I thought about, but hard to reach for battery replacement. Compared with 3x AAA batteries, the 2 coin batteries might not last very long. For this build I will continue with the 3x 1,5 V AAA batteries and I am very sure, Mike will soon run an awesome build. He mentioned an interesting idea in his last PM…

Good enough for basic approval and (as recently seen) also for higher levels - although it has some inaccuracies. If you need a blaster "out of the box" that one is okay. If you have some build skills, a resin kit might be much more interesting for you...

Whaaaaat??? May I ask, where this information does come from?

Easiest way might be to re-use some of your black acrylic plastic pieces, which you bought for the front sight block (very nice work by the way ). You only have to decide if you replicate the extractor in the slotted or the solid version. Not sure from top of my head but I think it was slotted on replicas (like Fazakerly) and solid on original Sterlings. Again, not 100% sure. Others might know...

Read here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/48-posting-images-in-threads-2015/

This is an outstanding thread in the history of the FISD. Never before seen so many entries for - well, almost nothing. NOW with the first brown boxes arriving, this totally changes - and the thread explodes even more. But we finally get facts and photos to stop the rumors. I fully understand everybody's exitement and impatience, but can't see reasons to post "I ordered in month X and did not get anything yet". It has been said so many times: patience is the key in this hobby - even for Anovos customers . Don't worry, sooner or later everybody will surely get what has been paid for. A thing that I am much more worrying about, is to possibly see this suit causing something like a separation within the FISD. Why that? Many people jumped on the train for the Anovos OT TK. A lot of them are new to this hobby and some might start to build without doing enough research in advance. Mistakes will happen and in the heads of some long-established troopers, there might be a prejudice like "another inexperienced noob with that Anovos armor". And the fact of creating the "Anovos Stormtrooper Kit Building Group" on facebook (which was surely meant to help), could also be taken as a step towards such a separation. Please: don't let that happen! No matter if you like this kit or not, let's keep in mind it looks not bad, it brought many new members to the Star Wars costuming scene - and so with to the FISD. Posting that comment in this highly frequented thread, feels like walking through a minefield. So please don't get me wrong. So far I like what has been shown on the pictures and I think the people will get a good armor for that price. The FISD will grow, as will the 501st Legion - and that is something good, right?! Have fun with your builds. And if you are still waiting for BBB, enjoy it - that is a part of this game.

Update #08 - Finger on the trigger Now that the trigger was in place, it got time to add a micro switch behind it. This had been taken from the electronics in the Disney blaster. The short video below gives an impression of its light and sound effects, that I want to implant into this E-11. Tested the micro switch in the trigger group (worked fine) and thought about placement of the other components. The original battery housing was no option, something else had to be found… To place the batteries in a movable part, obviously causes problems with the wiring. A few days I tried various ideas of what to install where best – without finding a satisfying way. The movable bolt and invisible electronics are no problem - if each modification is in a separate blaster. The real challange with this build is to COMBINE both mods. The nice screen caps from Dennis (Tr00per) prove, the opened ejector port is screen accurate. That made me rethink it all and I finally decided to permanently install the bolt in that backward position. This might be polarizing for some people, but this way it - 1 - allows proper wiring (as the part won‘t move anywhere) 2 - keeps the bullets and magazine visible at any time 3 - and is still screen accurate! So with a heavy heart I replaced the cup spring with the battery container. Well, at least it has been shown in earlier postings. And who knows, maybe this isn‘t the last blaster I build… However, the wiring makes more sense at a later stage in this build, so the next updates are going to cover work on the external resin parts. While doing this, there will be enough time to think about this… Have a nice weekend everybody

This has been done the same way as the “Table Of Contents” in our blaster reference thread. Every row in that list is linked to the specific posting. Ehm wait, we are on the dark side here, aren’t we? Best regards to L.A.