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T-Jay

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by T-Jay

  1. For easier navigation to individual build entries, I just added an interactive “table of contents” at the end of the first posting from this thread. It grows with every new update and also contains links to subsequent "Corrective Actions" (if there were some). This hopefully helps other people to not make the same mistakes and immediately find the corrections.
  2. Hi Ben, not sure if it is exactly what you are looking for, but you might find help in chapters #28 and #29...
  3. To be honest Sean, this thread currently requires more time on the keyboards than on the work bench. Thank you very much, Mike. There will surely be other people soon with great ideas and better builds – maybe your next one… For a moment I thought about accepting that challenge and rework it, but then lazily decided to leave this up to Mike (Twnbrother) For the rotary switch: this is exactly what I have in mind Really had to persuade myself to hollow that grip for inserting the switch. Currently all I can do is hoping it will work as planned Thanks Derrek. The majority of people might not go that far, but could still use this as help for their own builds. Thank you for offering this blaster kit with such great details. There is currently no better kit I could think of for doing this build.
  4. Corrective Actions on bolt colors: As promised in entry #41, here are the painting corrections to better match the original.
  5. Update #07 - Get a grip This mounting method is perfect for a static build. But in this case, I had to find a different way to securely connect the grip to the receiver tube. Looks a bit rough at the moment. Maybe that changes after painting... Thanks for any critics and comments.
  6. Thanks for your invitation. The same goes for you: if you make it to Germany, we should meet. Instead of copying my build, I am sure you will put yours to the next level – and I can’t wait to see that. Brian, without the dovetail in your receiver, it should be possible to place the barrel and the muzzle exactly where they are supposed to be. Then you could cut off the overlength and recreate the rounded front with your rotary tool. Just an idea... Maybe I should slow down this build, so Mike and me could soon run this in parallel
  7. Hi Lou, just re-read this build (was searching for a specific information) and found your comment: Well, have a look here ...
  8. Hi Michael, had seen these a while ago and recently visited this shop, while being on a business trip in Hamburg. Unfortunately they did not want to open such a box for closer inspection. But indeed, this price for a replica made from metal is really good. Please post pictures here in this thread once you get it. Really curious on this...
  9. Corrective Actions on front muzzle: This workaround does of course not remove the overlength of the CNC receiver, but it fixes the initial spacing issue with the inner barrel. Yes, the front muzzle is now thicker - but that is just on the inside where nobody can later see this. Good enough for me.
  10. Well Brian, in this case Aaron and Derrek are the true masters. I only combined and installed the parts. As discussed in our private messages, that crescent shaped "block" inside the muzzle sits above the barrel and therefore has no effect on the spacing issue. Anyway - with that latest reference photo, you (again) managed to massively support this build. Thank you very much! You should get a nick name like “Combat Photographer” or something The longer CNC receiver clearly caused the placement issue for that inner barrel and I soon post a workaround to fix this. Thank you very much, Sergiu. Happy to have “Dracula’s neighbor” stopping by Pardon? On your current profile picture you already look grown-up, Dan Or is that not you? Thank you very much, Michael. I am indeed happy about the FISD responding so positive to this build. Thanks Ian. Glad to see you like it. This build is truly dedicated to the original Sterling and will later cover the additions for the E-11 like it was used in the movie… Like mentioned in our email conversation, this probably has never been done before. So, things like that can happen. The good news is I soon post a way to fix it and this might help other builders with the same kit and add-on parts. For the pipe correction, I would just go the easy way and shorten the front end (with moving the dovetail backwards). The effect of the rolled tube can be recreated with green stuff between muzzle and receiver. At least this is what I plan to do when getting there… Hey Steve! As you meanwhile reduced your activities on the FISD, it even is a bigger honor to have you posting here. Hope you are doing fine and join in again. Antonio, your completion set is on the way and with Derrek’s kit you then have everything to run a fine build. In case you really want to replicate this one here, you will additionally need Aaron’s (usaeatt2) inner barrel, the spring cup and 2 bullets. I keep fingers crossed for you and will be happy to follow your build. Thanks, Mike. Best regards to the man who lives in Hawaii, where most of us would be happy to spend our summer vacation. You lucky you No need to apologize at all, Aaron. That is exactly what this thread is for. Thank you very much for your help!
  11. No artist chalk, nope. Something different. Will test it in my build when getting there an then post it (in case that works...)
  12. Sounds good, I am convinced. Just ordered something "slightly different" to use in my own build in a few weeks...
  13. Thanks for your words, Aaron and for sharing your way to weather the build. I expected something like this and had just recently saw a video on how to use these Tamiya kits. Awesome stuff. As I understood it, this "powder" does not last long unless being covered with a clear protective coat, that blows away some of the powder when sprayed on, correct? If so, did you ever try to add the powder right into the black color, while this is still drying?
  14. Andrew, I am surprised what you made out of this toy blaster. It really looks good. Like Ian already said, the clearing stripe on the inner bolt needs to run from upper left corner to lower right corner. In your first picture you obviously had planned to lower the T-tracks on the front. That would still be a nice addition to make it look more correct.
  15. Aaron, your power cylinders are on that same high level as your scope modification was. Absolutely outstanding! I really like the way you painted and weathered in those last two pictures. Makes everything looking so real. Would you mind to let us know, what paint and technique you used?
  16. Update #06 - Inside the receiver (front end) The rear end got done last time, so we can move on to the forward section Can't wait to post the next update, but currently I only have limited time for this hobby. Will do my best to keep the updates coming... Have a nice weekend everybody
  17. Uuh, I really love that mod! It turns that wonky trigger area into something very precise. When you have the parts in hands next time to remove more resin, you could also add the 4th hole to be drilled under the trigger guard.
  18. Yep, "Sekundenkleber" is fine. Don't worry about corrections. Do a good research first. This here might help...
  19. Thank you, Ian. Your Sniper Rifle build is also very nice to follow. Great idea and the start is thrilling - or should I say "drilling"? Depending on the build progress, there might later indeed be a stage, where this blaster could look more like a Sterling replica. But I will make sure to turn it into an E-11 at the end. Good question, Sean. The paint is standard paint and because of sliding the bolt through the receiver so many times during building, I already noticed some wear. As announced in entry #41, the clearing stripes will get repainted with silver. After that I might add some color-compatible oil for lubrication. Yep, hope I don’t get banned for posting this garbage here… Thanks, Carl. You currently have an interesting ESB build running on your own and it is a pleasure to follow.
  20. Hi Jens, you are mentioning a "doopy's" kit. For glueing resin to resin you best use CA glue. In case you build a pipe kit and need to glue your resin parts to other plastics or metal, look for a universal glue and check for the specifications you will need. I completed my first Doopy Doo's full resin build with less than 1ml CA glue. Just be sure to sand for smal gaps between the parts. Hope this helps
  21. As a real LEGO fan I am out of words...
  22. That 2 piece grip really is an advantage when it comes down to mods like this. Wish I had such a grip too. Your "clicking trigger" seems to work fine and you've done a good job to get it working like that. Very nice idea.
  23. Update #05 - Inside the receiver (back end) Next step was to paint the inside of the receiver Thanks very much for comments and critics.
  24. Thank you very much, Mike. Although not being really sure what I got myself into. Well will see…
  25. Happy new year everybody. Hope you all had a good time with your families and friends, enjoyed the holidays and the new Star Wars movie Your true opinion is really appreciated. It was obvious, not everybody would like this mod and that is absolutely okay. Instead of purely estimating how a fictional laser gun might look internally, I just preferred to go for the real inside view of the original screen-used Sterling SMG. And most probably a laser gun would not need a moving bolt at all Thanks for your words, Curro! All I do is combining as much mods as possible and adding something new to it. At the moment, I am not even sure if all things in mind will collaborate in one blaster. You will soon see what I mean… Glad to hear you like the new look of your bullets. While thinking about the movable bolt, I simply got in need of something to place behind it. The resin rounds you sent with your barrels and spring cups were just perfect for this. So one thought led to another… Also a big “Thank You” for posting another great reference picture, validating the screen accuracy of the last update Dennis, your screen captures nail it! Especially the ones with Han and Leia holding the Sterling with bolt in backward position. Thank you very much for sharing these with us and for green light to use them. Hey Adam, thanks for stopping by. How are things? It’s been a while since your last build update. Hope you are taking your blaster and completion set to the maximum
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