Dark CMF

The Rom/FX is another option that bundles the amp and the sounds into one board, rather than two separate boxes. It also produces random static bursts, and has five different settings that can be used to customize the effect.<br><br> Either system will generally cause the same reaction from the crowds. They're always more or less shocked when you sound "right."

No tweaking. Myself and some other Troopers won six games in a row earlier. Three as the scum, and here proper victories.

Heh... My Facebook Status as of one hour ago: "I felt a great disturbance in the force. As if millions of gamers suddenly cried out with an illness, and drove home from work."

The beta is only live for this weekend. Just to make sure that you're aware of that.

It is already downloaded and installed on my XB1, but I am patiently waiting for work and the day to be done so that I may begin enjoying the beautifulness of Battlefront, once again. I was actually just chatting with a friend of mine about the game, and we have decided that whenever we decide to begin a suicide run into enemy territory, instead of gaming's obligatory battle cry "Leroy Jeeeeeeeeeeenkiiiiiiins" we will scream "Jek Pooooooooooorkiiiiins."

Hey there brother, you're in good hands, and you know that I'm just a short drive away and will be beginning my own build relatively soon as well. Yes, compared to this, the OT TK will be pretty simple. 1. Yes. I have it in my kit, but I'm thinking I'm just going to use CA glue for them as others have done. 2. I am going to suggest that the cod will be very smooth, yes. That's what I'm shooting for with mine at least. Of course, where you will have seams (which is pretty much every other single piece of this armor) you'll have "hard" edges without returns. We're going to wow North Texas over the next few months.

Congratulations Hans!! Well done indeed.

Looking good Dan! NTX Representing! Shouldn't be any issues here. Move along....

Congratulations Oscar, and welcome to the ranks of the EIBs!!!

Hey there Jonathan, you can probably get the paint off with some mineral spirits.<br><br> As for the curve... That's a little bit tougher to say. I used a brush with a shaped tip on it that made painting the curves and edges a lot easier. If you're using a standard "torch" shaped brush, it might be difficult to do. A brush with stiffer bristles might also help you out.

Looking great, Ty! Keep at it, brother. By the time I get around to building mine, all of these cool solutions will be common place.

Not sure how I managed to miss your thread, Todd, but belated Congratulations, and welcome to the Centurion ranks!!

Great looking build!<br><br> Thanks to Mathias for continuing to educate the TK masses.

Looking good!!

Congratulations Dan! <br> Never any doubt, as I've seen your armor in action. Centurion next!!! Join us!

I've consistently been told, and therefore used, the following measurements:<br><br> Arms - 15mm<br> Thighs - 23mm<br> Shins - 21mm

Without having used an iComm/Akers amplifier setup, I can't say which is better, but my research led me to choose the Rom/FX. It doesn't require any external amplification, or additional hardware to produce any of its features. Everything is on one board, with a 9v battery not too far off. I have the option of using my audio systems with everything contained in my helmet, because the Rom/FX fits in the helmet with my EAS and fans. If I want no wires in my neck, and we are attending a quieter event, I use my hovi tip speakers, otherwise, I use the chest plate speaker with the one wire run into my neck seal. The Rom/FX is a very, very good choice.

We're not worthy.<br><br> We're not worthy.<br><br><br> Beautiful work once again. But truthfully, I expect nothing less than this from you by now.

While I'm getting good at identifying armor makers by sight, I'd only be able to offer you an opinion on something like that if you included some pictures of your kidney plate, as well as it along with the back and butt plates lined up with it perhaps. I'm sure someone will be able to answer your question without pictures, but they definitely help.

But of course!

My experience bears out what you asked Spencer. I used the webbing for my snap plates specifically because it will form to the shape of the armor no matter where you're gluing it, and ABS - without some additional work - will not form as tightly to curved surfaces. Further, even if you sand the ABS a bit to rough up the gluing surface, the webbing is far more likely to get a good bond due to the ability of the glue to get into the fibers of it.

Brian, I will say thank you for your efforts here to assist us. I'm in the same camp as Tony, in that I want to build my armor now, with level 3 ultimately in mind. Some call that elitist, or a waste of time/effort/energy, but I firmly believe that as the "preferred costuming group" of LFL, we owe it to the public to give them the best possible representation of the characters seen on screen. Also, as you said, we spent a lot of money on these kits. I'd prefer to have it looking as much as possible like the ones on screen. You don't buy a Ferrari and head to Walmart to get some seat and rim covers.

I'd avoid fiberglass as a general rule. ABS is probably more durable in the event of a drop, and far simpler to repair should damage occur.

Without having seen too many RS suits in person, I can say that the AM (or the RT as has been mentioned) will fit you with no issue at all. I'd recommend taking a look at EIB and Centurion threads, where you can see the different armor makers on display with listed ht/wt for the troopers wearing it. That way, you'll get a solid idea as to how well each of the kits fit and look on people of similar size.

This is exactly the same situation that I've got. As an ANH Hero build, I went with Veedox for the Hero style neck seal, but I do have Darman's heavyweight holster. Both are absolutely quality products, and quality people to do business with. I wouldn't hesitate to order from either of them, for any need of a product that they offer, again.