Curanthir

For me, there were definitely some plot holes already mentioned, and as an electrical engineer, it irritates the crap out of me that they called the exhaust port a flippin oscillator An oscillator is something that moves back and forth, like a wave, usually used to refer to electrical wave making devices. NOT a heat sink or exhaust vent Aside from that, it felt like they copied a lot from ANH to try to get back into the spirit of the original trillogy, and I expect that the later movies will be much more original.

I'm going to use the permittivity of free space constant: 88542 for 8.8542*10^-12 (I'm an electrical engineer)

There are some pics. the shoulder bridges aren't glued down yet, just there to see how the positioning works. My right bicep is too high in these, the left bicep is in the proper position.

I am just finishing my last forearm, have both biceps and the chest+back trimmed and finished. I am preparing to set up the strapping for the arms, but with my AM 2.0 kit, the shoulder bells are huge. I am certain that I need to trim them a bit (I'm pretty thin but tall), but I have no idea what I am aiming for. Looking at a bunch of pictures, I can't quite tell what size and shape I am going for. What should I be measuring my shoulder bells against for trimming? Also, I notied that the black bicep strap is mandatory on the shoulders, but my arms are so long that the bicep barely overlaps the shoulder (close to what is shown is some pics of Han Solo). Should I just attach a long hook to the biceps to make it work, or should I not worry about the overlapping?

So i have a few parts done, but I have some E6000 leakage on all of them. The easy part to remove is when large amounts ooze out of the coverstrips, as I can tear it out. However, for very light spots here or there from accidentally smearing or dripping, or for places where it oozes out very little, I seem to have a lot of trouble getting it off. I don't quite have time to go over every square inch of my armor with my fingernails trying to peel off every tiny splotch of E6000, so does anyone know of a good way to remove very thin layers and spots of it without damaging the glue holding the parts together? I've heard hot water or freezing it, but both of those would affect the structural glue as well.

Hello, I'm currently having a lot of trouble painting my vocoder of my AM2.0 correctly. First, each strip of it just blends into the helmet, so there are no curved lines for me to follow at all. Currently, all the lines blur together in a rounded shape, but I need to go back and fix it. How would you recommend getting spraypaint off a bucket without damaging it? And then how do I get the rounded shape of each vocoder line?

How much did you have to order? they seem to have a minimum order size

For the double snapping method many here use, what width of elastic/webbing do you use for the straps? 1 1/2 seems like it may be a bit thin for it, but 2 inch seems way too wide.

I think I'm going stunt, as I like the full face frown, and want to swap in some UV protective ballistic lenses that won't be bubbled.

After looking over how the cover strips look, I think I'm going to try to smooth out the seam-like edges on the side and bottom of the strips while leaving the sharp ridges on top as it complements the overall sharp, angular look of the classic TK armor. I'll probably try my hand at using ABS paste (on some scrap ABS first until I get the micture and application technique right) to slightly build up the seam so it looks more like a raised part of the armor instead of a plastic strip glued on.

Im one of those few people who wants to wear what stormtrooper armor was supposed to be, not what the props turned out to be. I'm probably going to experiment with smoothing out the cover strips to make it look a bit smoother and idealized while leaving their general look and support. On that front I'm also going to be attempting to carefully slightly reshape the helmet to make it a bit more symmetrcal with some hot water and a heat gun.

That sounds like a much better idea, I might have to try that out.

Sorry for all the threads, but as my questions are so vastly different, I think it's better to separate them. So, my AM 2.0 armor is about to arrive, and I am wondering if it is possible to do a butt joint style without the outer coverstrip, perhaps using plastic weld to melt the joints together (with a strip on the inside for support). Anybody happen to know anything about this? I know it's not good for anything but basic certification (I think it is still certifiable >.>), but I am going for a smoothly idealized TK.

I am about to receive my brown box, and am preparing the necessary supplies. What sizes of elastic or webbing are typically used at different parts of the armor? I plan to use almost exclusively belt elastic for added mobility. For the belt, I've heard that canvas-wrapped elastic works well, does canvas-wrapped polypropylene webbing work too? And for the snaps, is there an effective alternative to Tandy snaps that are cheaper but of comparable strength and quality? I've also seen a diagram somewhere of TM's preferred strapping method, does anybody know where I can find that? Another random question, where can I find the standard(ish) assembly procedures for all the various armor parts? For example, which places use rivets or screws instead of glue and why (I'd like to avoid as many screws and rivets as possible for a smoother idealized look). I have seen a lot of build threads, but they usually just show steps without explaining exactly what needs to be done for each part to look and work right. Thanks! EDIT: I found on some leatherworking forums that Durable Dot and Fasnap line 24's are way better than Tandy, and they are a little cheaper as well. If you order over $50(minimum order) on each of their websites, you get 100 full snaps for $20-25 each. So order 200 full sets and you can get some excellent snaps for a great deal.

OK, looks like I missed the decals included part of AM. Now I'm not sure if I want stunt or hero. I like Hero's bubble lenses, but the helmet comes with stunt ears and the stunt frown looks like it fits the helmet better (and the helmet is a stunt shape, so slightly different). How important are the screws in the ears? I know I need them for EIB or higher (Dont want that as I like a smoother idealized look without visible rivets and stuff), but are they mandatory for 501st qualification?