tkrestonva

Congratulations on BBB Day (along with boots & tools day)! Looks like you're off to a good start. Regarding the helmet face, although I'm not a pro at AM helmet assembly (but I do have some experience), that raised ridge has to be there for a reason. Best to leave it on until you are absolutely certain you don't need it. Ditto with the warped dome - let someone else with more experience look at it first before doing anything with it. In the meantime, you can work on other parts of the kit.

Yep.

Yes, you can reshape them by giving them a hot water bath. Basically, you immerse the piece in near-boiling water long enough for it to soften a bit (with the thin Anovos plastic I suggest no more than 10 seconds), gently pull them apart, and lock in the shape by quenching them in cool water.

The process for trimming and fitting should be similar to that of a plastic kit. The difference will be in the tools you use and especially the extra safety precautions you will need to take in working with fiberglass. Definitely post pictures.

Mine is one of the original Alpha 75 kits, and I've been trooping it for a little under 2 years now. I had it professionally painted at an auto body shop. Not the cheapest option, but it has held up well and to me was well worth it. I've also sent two other FO TKs and an FO TIE pilot in my Garrison to the same guy I used.

In addition to posting here, I recommend you also join the Captain Phasma Costumers group on Facebook.

Congrats! Out of curiosity, which kit is this?

Anna likely isn't on FISD, but you can reach her via PM on the GT forum - she goes by the username "azri". For ESB, you don't use rubber handplates. You use the snowtrooper-style hard plastic handplates (the AM kit comes with a set). So no need for the gloves, either. You'll definitely want the Neodymium rare earth magnets (as opposed to the ceramic magnets). If you've never played with rare earth magnets, you'll be shocked at the difference. There is simply no comparison in the level of pull force between the two, and you'll need it to hold the thick AM plastic together while the E6000 cures.

You can definitely find the gloves cheaper on ebay. Assuming you are using black Nomex flight gloves (generally the preferred choice for trooping), simply do an ebay search on the term "black Nomex flight gloves". You may be able to find them for as little as $10 per pair. Echoing what Brian from OLG said, you definitely don't need 15' of Velcro (either white or black), but you will need the elastic that he refers to. I get my elastic from Joann Fabrics. Don't forget to add the cost of a cloth belt - TKittell is the go to guy for that. I already sent you the link via PM but here it is again: http://www.imperialissue.com. Magnets ... you're going to need a lot of them (I recommend 40-50) and buying them retail comes at a premium. You can get them much cheaper online. I used http://www.banggood.com for my most recent magnet purchase, as I found they were by far the cheapest. Problem is, they are imported from China (of course), and can take weeks to arrive - time you don't have if you want to be done by mid-June. In your case, a domestic supplier would be a better choice. http://www.kjmagnetics.com and http://www.magnet4less.com are two suppliers I've used in the past. Look for disc-shaped Ne rare earth magnets of N42 or greater strength, approximately 3/4" x 1/8" in size. You'll need plenty because (1) it's a 24 hour cure time when gluing parts together via E6000 and the number of clamps and magnets you have is your limiting factor, (2) they tend to want to fly together and shatter so you'll need extras to account for losses, and (3) they are stackable if you feel you need to increase the pull force. Snaps - Nickel-plated Line 24 snaps from Tandy leather is generally the recommended choice. I would get the 100 pack, as you will inevitably ruin a few (or more) as you are learning how to properly set them. You'll also want to pick up a compatible snap setting tool while you're at it. Scissors - I recommend you get the curved and straight hobby (Lexan) scissors as a set. Both are useful, and they can be found on amazon.com

Topic moved.

Will this do, or should I try for a better photo, perhaps on a different background and/or with less shadow? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

... with a First Order flashlight on his thigh! Unrelated to the CRL, I noticed how that trooper's codpiece is bending, as if it's specifically made of a rubbery material to allow for greater mobility - much like Mr. Rubber Thighs from the Death Star (ANH) and Bespin (ESB). Just thought that was interesting.

To my recollection, that combo was only seen twice - once in a deleted scene (which is available as bonus footage as part of the digital download version), and on a behind-the-scenes shot - specifically when JJ Abrams was giving acting direction to one of the stormtroopers. Both take place in the basement of Maz's castle on Takadona - a scene which itself never made it to the final cut.

Yep, I remember that instance. The only other use of the megablaster was when Poe's abandoned X-wing on Jakku was destroyed. Again, the trooper that did it was holding it freehand.

Like this? It's the only instance in the movie where the stand was actually used.

Haha, you know it!

Regarding the megablaster, here is what I have - obviously better photos are needed.

If you are set on doing an AM 2.0, then I'd go with their helmet kit. You will get a perfect match to your armor, their helmets have greatly improved since the first AM kits, and they aren't as hard to build as you may think.

This may not help much seeing as you are in the U.K., but my kit is strapped identically to yours and I use this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Contico-Storage-Locker/2476189 With some creative packing (think Russian stacking dolls), I can get everything in except the helmet. The entire costume fits inside of the trunk (what you all call the boot) of a 2001 Volkswagen New Beetle. - Blaster goes inside one of the shins - Shins go inside the thighs - Gloves (with handplates attached) go inside of the forearms - Forearms go inside of the biceps - Biceps go inside of the shoulder bells - Thighs/shins/blaster and shoulders/biceps/forearms/gloves inside the clamshelled torso - Clamshell is closed and held closed by the snaps at the shoulder and the right side ab (i.e. the Han Solo snap) - Utility belt remains snapped to the torso and is fastened in the back of the kidney plate - the holster remains attached to the belt and lies alongside the torso - Torso is placed inside the storage locker (much like I imagine placing a body inside of a coffin) - Thermal detonator goes inside one of the boots - Boots go in the gaps at the sides of the torso - Lid is closed and latched The helmet itself is carried externally in a helmet bag. I also stuff my undersuit, socks, and neckseal inside the helmet before putting it in the helmet bag.

Not necessary, but if it bothers you then you can do so.

Not counting stormtroopers from The Force Awakens (TFA) or Rogue One, about as different as you can get. I recommend reviewing the CRLs - eventually the differences will become obvious. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rotj

I would also add the TFA snowtrooper pack as seen on the "Jakku patrol" trooper.

That definitely seems like a no-brainer. The F-11D rifle and pauldron are already there. Just need to get a description and some good quality photos of the FMWB-10 Megablaster and the Heavy Gunner vest. Maybe change the language on the rifle description to say "... with extended stock and approximately 11% larger than the standard F-11D blaster" or whatever the size difference is that Germain came up with. Fortunately, I have all of accessories in question - I'll need to submit some quality photos to whomever updates the CRL.

You could, but AM 2.0 is ANH/ESB armor. Being that TKC body armor is ROTJ-based, it would take a lot more work and it would still not look quite right.

Your biggest challege will be to cut down and (if need be) reshape the FX kit to fit your 5'3" frame. I'd personally done it for a garrison member (she is 5'1"), but it takes time and know-how.