tkrestonva

Death Star Gunner FTW. Actually, destroying planets isn't all that far afield from one of my previous jobs in the U.S. Air Force as a nuclear missile launch officer.

Odd that the designers would add small details such as inner drop boxes and chipping paint on the butt plate, but omit the thermal detonator's details.

Excellent! Between this and seantrooper's thread I'm seeing more and better reference material for my TKC FX conversion later this year.

Like Dennis said, it's good to see TM on a bigger guy - there's hope for me after all. Now get yourself some rubber gloves and latex handplates!

Congratulations Pat, and what a great submission thread!

Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to this, but real-life sometimes has a way of interfering with one's hobbies. BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front): DO NOT BRING FIGHTS FROM OTHER FORUMS TO THE FISD. That’s not what the FISD is about and runs counter to the environment the staff is trying to foster. The same rules of engagement apply to everyone – if there is a dispute, put forth the evidence and let the individual reader decide for himself. By bringing over posts from other people on other forums, a line is crossed. Furthermore, unless it is first-hand testimony from the verified owner and/or creator of said prop or prop replica (and by that I mean the owner/creator himself creates a post in the relevant topic on this forum), I don’t consider “expert opinions†to be in the same league as objective evidence – no matter who they come from. On the contrary, I consider it "hearsay". However, photographic comparisons are absolutely legitimate and are welcome. Brian FISD Provost Marshal

I don't know what Plastruct is, but my personal strategy was to use ABS cement (on my ABS kit, of course) on the snap plates and E6000 for the joins. The snap plates are hidden, so if I make a mistake no one sees it. I also wanted an absolutely unbreakable bond, and ABS cement works by melting the two joining surfaces together. On the other hand, E6000 dries clear, creates a flexible bond, and even days later can be carefully removed if one makes a mistake and, for instance, joins the wrong halves of a shin together. Any overspill can also be removed without damaging the plastic.

Cool!

Actually, the eFx - like its MRCE predecessor - is Expert Infantry qualifiable with the proper mods. The question of whether or not it's best to put in the work or get something that's more accurate to begin with is still valid, but you can EI-qualify with a (modded) eFx. As for the required mods, off the top of my head you'll need to fill the chin seam and replace the lenses at a minimum. By looking up a few of the MRCE mod threads - and Bluey's is probably the one most people refer to - you'll find out everything you need.

Please refrain from personal attacks, digs, jibes, etc. <_< The Management

ATA, you seek ATA.

What Mark said. Easiest way to go double-EIB, assuming you're interested in doing so. In addition to swapping helmets, gloves/handguards, and blaster/holster - I also have separate swappable belts for ANH and ESB.

Just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU to Karin for being such a valued member of our community, and for single-handedly bringing screen-accurate hand guards to the masses. All Hail the Queen (of Hand Guards)!

Glad to hear it went well, wish I couldv'e participated. George Lucas is definitely a huge 501st fan. At C5 he literally gushed over both the 501st Legion and R2 Builders Club when Jon Stewart asked him what he thought of the fan groups.

Well done. Seeing you modify your kit like that makes me less hesistant to do the same to mine.

Although the thread could've been titled differently, I didn't interpret it as a WTB but as an RFI (Request for Information), or else it wouldn't made it this far.

Speaking of Scootch, he's also selling CAP-W shadow trooper helmet kits. In terms of accuracy they are heads and shoulders above the eFX, and you'll pay a lot less for it. For an extra fee, he may even be willing to assemble it for you. Give him a shout out and see what he says. ----------

They do turn up on ebay from time to time.

I'm actually in need of some Ep3 clone boots. If you decide to do a run, I'm definitely interested.

Other than the weight savings, is there a reason why you're not using the barrel?

In response to your question regarding the backs of the thighs, mine are glued shut. I made sure that the sizing was small enough to be form-fitting to my legs, but just large enough to get my barefoot (or rather, socks-only) Size 12 feet through the opening. The calves of course are not glued in the back, but clamshell open, with velcro holding them closed - as opposed to the screen-accurate method of using small hooks.

Snaps can be ordered in bulk online at Tandy Leather Factory. A snap tool can be bought at your local JoAnn Fabrics store.

Looks great! So, how much does it weigh?

If you're considering a two-piece, I do have some advice: Make sure there is plenty of overlap between the top and bottom. If you don't they can ride up/down exposing flesh, or what we affectionally call "plumber's crack". I've seen troopers wearing the two-piece style undersuit and who also have the split butt/kidney armor that is correct for ANH & ESB. I've also seen what can happen when they move or attempt to bend. Not good.

Better to stay away from velcro to begin with. Yes it's easy to install, but it's also less secure, wears out over time (and usually gives out entirely at the most inconvenient of times), and can make a strange crunching sound when you walk or move. If you're going for balls-on screen accuracy, metal brackets are the way to go. If not, then internal snap plates work well. What kind of kit are you considering?