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welshchris77

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by welshchris77

  1. Ok, no worries, thanks anyway!
  2. I will look into getting the 5000 model when mine eventually gives up the ghost and dies!, thanks for the advice Michael
  3. Its the The Dremel 400 Series Digital, 5.000 - 33.000 RPM - For exact speed adjustment in 1.000 RPM increments, 140w motor, I have only really used it a few times on plastic and wasn't very detailed work, they don't make that particular model anymore though, unfortunately but could probably find old stock somewhere.
  4. A friend of mine bought the cheapest dremel that is often on offer at various outlets, I tried it and it had very weak torque and no speed control, The one I use is far better, definitely has better torque, and the ability to slow it right down is great for plastics so as not to burn or melt them. I can put a lot more pressure on it when needed without slowing it down, I hang mine from a hook above my work station and often use the flex attachment while carving hardwoods. Have carved large pieces of white oak without a problem!
  5. You could still lightly mark off the area your going to sand with a pencil, even if you don't sand to that line just as a general guide to how much is coming off. Just take your time, remember you can take away but not put material back. Did I mention take your time!!!! lol
  6. I use a dremel for many tasks including modeling, repair work and wood carving, if you don't do much of that I wouldn't bother if it just for a tk kit. A set of files would be cheaper and sandpaper. If you do then get a good one, the cheaper Dremels look the same but thats where it ends! The better ones have much more control over the speed and a lot higher torque. Never put too much strain on these kinds of tools though as your likely to burn them out. The flex shaft attachment is good but be careful as they tend to heat up with prolonged use. I have had the same one for the last 3/4 years with no problems.
  7. By the way, i can see why you might think moving the ear down would solve the problem but this could cause 'new' problems, the ear could end up too low and also cause the bottom part of the ear to pull away from the lid.
  8. Im no expert but one way to 'scribe' the ears in would be to measure the gap at ist widest point, then take a pencil and sand one side of the pencil until the the distance from the sanded side to the 'lead point' of the pencil is the same as your gap, the lay the sanded side of the pencil against your lid with your pencil tip against the ear and, keeping the pencil pushed tight again the lid, draw a line all the way around the ear, this is your 'scribe line', then, theoretically, if you take the ear off and sand to this line it should fit back on perfect minus the gap. It will make the ear a bit more 'shallow' though. Don't try this unless your confident in doing it. Its easier to show than explain to be honest. I take no responsibility if you get it wrong! I have used this technique, on a larger scale' to 'scribe' kitchen end gables and plywood/mdf boards to uneven walls etc. but the gap is a lot bigger, I would cut a small piece of wood to the size of the gap and push it along the wall next to the gable (sheet material) I'm going to cut with the pencil held again the wood block. Same principal. Someone else could probably explain this better than myself!
  9. Does anyone have any guess as to when 'tier 2' orders might arrive in Europe?
  10. Great start!, if your thinking of getting the SDS blaster, I assume you mean from 'Shepperton design studios' yes?, then you maybe be better off going with a doopydoos kit, its a much better blaster and cheaper and you will have fun making it, plenty of build threads here to help you out too
  11. Hopefully this is how they will handle it! I begrudgingly paid the Duty and tax earlier today for my TFA bucket after a day of sulking about it first! Our government is quite skilled at ripping us off here for buying from the States.
  12. Ive ordered lots of things from ebay and the like before from overseas but never got an extra bill for duty and customs, although most of theses items were not very expensive, the most would have been under around €200. I dont blame Anovos and I know different countries have various import fees but I may mention it to Anovos just to see if they have a view on the subject.
  13. Do you think I could get away with having Anovos send it to my sister in law in florida and then for her to re-post this on to me as a 'gift' to avoid the Duty and tax? I may get a rebate on the Anovos shipping as it was something like €150 delivery to Ireland 'standard shipping'
  14. Im living in Ireland and also have the TK ordered, I wonder if it would be cheaper to get it posted to my sister in law in Florida and have her post it to me declaring it as a gift It appears that Anovos could be shipping out hard and soft part separately, if both have the 'overall' price stated on them I could get charged twice for that judging from what I've already paid the tk could be around €150, if I get charged twice then it could be €300
  15. Help!, got a letter in the post yesterday from FEDEX for a bill of €61.87 for duty and tax on a Anovos force awakens trooper helmet I got just after Christmas, Is this right? I can't believe they want this much off me after all the money I already paid for the item and shipping etc, has anyone any experience with this?
  16. Help!, got a letter in the post yesterday from FEDEX for a bill of €61.87 for duty and tax on a Anovos force awakens helmet I got just after Christmas, Is this right? I can't believe they want this much off me after all the money I already paid for the item and shipping etc, has anyone any experience with this?
  17. Great start!, what paint are you using, automotive?
  18. Can't see what all the fuss is about, they are not guns they are replica science fiction props! Stormtroopers are not complete without their blasters! To quote Vern: 'blasters have never caused problems before' The 501st is making a request but lets hope they don't make it permanent policy to not be allowed to have part of your costume (blaster) on troops as this would be too harsh. Lets all try to remain friendly about this and hope that the issue will resolve itself
  19. Im no expert so don't quote me on this but I'm guessing that by 'non textured' it basically means 'reasonably smooth' as most clothing would be. All fabric has some kind of texture thats a given but its quite fine on most and not really 'visible' texture, I don't think the stitches of the fabric would count as generally being 'textured'. Textured fabric material would generally have some kind of 'pattern' to it or 'raised' features as apposed to generally flat like your average 'T-shirt' cotton. Hope this helps
  20. Good to have you back Andy and hope your illness is relatively under control, Long term heath condition are a terrible affliction and your life can change dramatically, I know from experience having being diagnosed with a bowel disease several years ago, I was sick for most of this year and only now have things under control with medication and diet etc. The force is strong with you and also we all have The force Awakens to look forward too soon! Take it easy pal. regards Chris
  21. I agree with Vern, this should be for a limited time as a sign of respect to recent events. At the end of the day a stormtrooper without a blaster would not look or feel right!. Maybe a local law enforcement authority could check all blasters prior to an event or something similar to put peoples minds at rest if they have concerns, just an idea!.
  22. on the celebration pic they do kind of look flat but in the new trailer they look like bubbles, maybe there is a flat 'stunt' and bubble 'hero' version of the googles for filming? --------------
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