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Who "was" your armor maker? "GOOP is not recommended for use on Styrofoamâ„¢, polystyrene, polyethylene or polypropylene plastics, aquariums or refrigeration units." Contact one of the armorers listed here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Maybe they can help.

As "Clamps" said, contact the armor maker. Which version of Amazing Goop did you use? --------

DD's has 3 options when it comes to blasters: 1. Full resin kit (everything you need minus the scope rail) 2. Pipe build kit (you need to supply the pipe and carve it up) 3. Hasbro conversion (you supply the Hasbro blaster) Hasbro conversions are not allowed for Centurion level. Good luck! Take your time deciding. There is a LOT of info to wade through.

Uno!

1. Complete ESB E-11 DoopyDoos full resin blaster 2. Lose some weight so armor fits better 3. Dabble into pepakura

Package was on the doorstep when we got home this evening (probably arrived on the 24th. Looks in good shape. So, looking at 13 days or so from order to delivery. (Parts are not as white as the pic portrays.) All parts accounted for plus a D-ring.

Awesome work! Do we have a price point in mind yet?

I believe there are several posts here showing the different ways folks have their IComm rigs set up.

EQ1 -> WoW -> SWTOR -> TSW -> back to Panda WoW -> back to SWTOR PF2P Tried some others, but not worth mentioning. I may re-sub back to SWTOR. But for now, PF2P is just fine.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12221-howto-making-a-duct-tape-mannequin/ You can find similar stuff via Google. I made one way back from 2" PVC that worked well.

"the protection of hard armor in that area would be helpful" Did you go kicking and screaming along the way?

I guess it would also depend on what/wear you were trying to paint.

Your best bet might be an RT-Mod kit. Do some research of all the different types here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

I ordered my full kit on Dec 11th through the main site. I received a "Dispatched" email this morning (Dec 14th). I'll update on the process as it continues.

I guess someone needs to come up with a SCUBA Trooper.

Ask this guy: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22216-tks-in-random-places-post-your-photos/#entry277483

Very nice thread! I have plenty to study and ponder before my kit gets here.

Requesting 501st access: TK-209 Star Garrison Central Texas Squad http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=186 I'm back!

I'm back to active status! Just got the word from our GML. Thanks to everyone here on your advice and tips.

Original post with pics here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22062-intro-for-new-old-member/ Sorry for the rotation issues. Thanks for all the tips and advice!

I hot glued each one of my squirel fans on to a square of porous foam padding, then hot glued that into my bucket in similar location that EB shows above. I'll post a pic this evening.

Nice job. Grats!

The 501st CRL requirements do not specify a particular "shade" of color to use. It only requires a pattern of 6 gray and 3 blue. Abdomen Plate For 501st approval: The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter. For level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . For level three certification (if applicable): Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line. Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet. A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present. A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional. I would just go with what looks good to you. Personally, I like the 1138 gray and a darker shade of blue.

Looks great. I'm sure several people are following the thread.