Bulldog44

Usaeatt2 (Aaron ) might be able to lend advice on this. He is a magician with a torch!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21494-hengstler-face/?hl=%2Bhengstler+%2Bmeasurements#entry267024 Found this thread from a few years back. Hope it helps. If not , I can measure up my counter this week for you.good luck!

Tim, thanks for the awesome review. The video goes the extra mile to show how you have got it set up and how if sounds. I was surprised to hear how loud it is. Before watching this video, I somewhat doubted how loud this board could be. I might spend the extra money to have it shipped to Japan.

Thanks heaps Ian! I have plenty of aluminum channel left over. Actually I have enough extra material purchased for this build to last for a few more blasters. Scary to even do the math for the amount spent on this so far. Even at work I found a few knurled items. One of those things taken for granted. Happy though not to be overly consumed to look for it as I was the past week.

Thanks Tino! Hoping when its painted it will cover up some of those unwanted blemishes. Thanks for the guard advice. I will make sure to have the pattern stop. I wasn't happy with my initial knurling attempt so I reworked it the other night with even worse results. Tried again last night. read below: Thanks Derrek for another good option for the knurling pattern.Its amazing how these things are right before eyes and we never take notice. So Aaron had me thinking about knurling again after he posted his collection of punching tools. Then, it struck me on my way home, that I bought a similar punching tool for my armor a long while back. I found it buried in my tool bag, and was happy to see it had a nice knurling pattern on the handle. After a quick inspection of how it looked pressed into some putty, I started work to re-apply the pattern on my sight guard. I tried it with a metal part from some paper cutting tool 2 nights ago but it was terrible. The pattern was not even close. Below you can see the difference between the 2 items I used to apply the pattern. The longer tool on the right is the better one. Two reasons the attempt I did 2 nigths ago didn't work so well. 1-the pattern sucked, diagonals didn't intersect closer to 90 degrees. 2- I didn't let the thin layer of epoxy set a bit before I applied the pattern. It was still too sticky and just peeled up as I rolled the knurled metal piece over the surface. I didn't take any pictures of that but it would have been wise to record it for comparisons. Sorry. Original Sight Guard before adding the knurling pattern- Here is a photo of my first try with the knurling pattern taken off of a metal file- (a few months ago) Last night's attempt using the punching tool handle- Rear side didn't come out that great but it kind of gives the worn/ used look. I used a thin layer of Tamiya smooth surface epoxy, evened out the surface a bit and let it set for approximately 1 1/2 - 2 hours. This epoxy takes around 12 hours to fully set. I just rolled the hole punching tool handle over the surface like a rolling pin and it made a nice clean impression. It was hard to roll it perfectly from front to rear so there are areas I needed to go back over. Its obvious where I had to do this as you can see where the lines break up and do not match. I can live with that. I still need to sand down the parts where the epoxy is uneven and create that defined line where the pattern stops on the from and rear as Tino recommended. The epoxy will be set so tonight I will go back and clean up the details. Hope this looks the part. Certainly post comments where improvement is needed. Thanks everyone for following up with your tips, advice and options for the knurling pattern!!!!! Aaron, I was reminded of a useful Japanese phrase when I discovered I already had something useful for this knurling job- Toudai moto kurashi! ç¯å°ä¸‹æš—ã—- "Its dark by the foot of the lighthouse." in simple terms- "It was right under my nose the whole time!"

Super! Thanks Aaron for posting this. The black one in the middle looks perfect! I will take a look at the home center this weekend. You have a treasure trove of tools in your workshop!

Wow! Brian, That is one beautiful looking blaster. Fantastic work on that. All your hard work on creating it has certainly paid off. The scope came out perfect. Hard to tell the real one from the replica if you didn't have the excess resin on the base. Certainly post some more build photos if you took any. Outstanding work!!!!!!

Thanks Ian. I honestly feel you and many other blaster builders paved the way to do this kind of mod. Having sound input and great examples to follow helps stir the pot of possibilities. I feel too amateur yet to accept an ultimate award so I will save that until the blaster is finished. Appreciate all your support! Looking forward to seeing the ultimate DVH pipe build finished! No worries about painting! You got talent and a passion for excellence!

Great. Can't wait to hear your review! Hope more people reply with more options as you mentioned. This is one area of blaster building that is lacking when it comes to options.

Hi Tim. I was so set on buying the same thing a long while back. I never did buy it due to shipping charges to Japan. Another member here (can't remember their name, sorry) later added in their thread they were going to use the Adafruit sound module. Here is the link: http://www.adafruit.com/products/2133 It comes in 2MB and 16 MB flash ($24,95) Still need to add speakers and battery pack but its tiny and might be the better option in the long run. I will be installing this in my blaster at some point.Hope this helps.

Thanks for saying thanks. Happy you found many useful threads here. Best of luck on your armor!

Thanks Aaron. Without your help to make the sight block, I would never even attempted it. Its a bit off center but I will have to live with that. I have a 2mm curse with all my building projects. Guess thats better than 5-10mm.

Fought off some sleep and squeezed an hour in last night to finish up fitting the front sight in the dovetail. First a photo of the old sight block removed from the Doopy sight guard (with new sight block) - And finally, the Front Sight seated in the Dovetail Groove- With the sight guard - The sight pin might sit to high in this photo but I can lower it if needed. Please let me know if it looks too high. The next small part I will try to finish up is the End Cap Lock. I was first trying to use the Doopy lock and make it a moving part just like Triumphmark's lock. Since the Doopy lock is one solid piece, I sawed off one side to carve out the middle lever section. The resin walls that support the lever are too fragile to reassemble and rely on to have a moving lock. So I am going to try and use a U shaped piece of aluminium. This fantastic solution was suggested by Sith Lord. Thanks Ian! Furthermore, usaeatt2 posted some detailed photos of the lock & its measurements which will greatly help me to replicate the real part as close as possible. He also provided a dissembled view of the whole lock showing what makes the lever spring back into position & the pins holding it together. Thanks again for all that Aaron! Here is where I am at so far (which is not very far yet): Just cut a piece of the U shaped aluminium track/channel. I will use the inner resin lever unless it breaks in the process. Just needs some epoxy to recreate some straight lines along the length and a tad bit on one of the T ends. It is already a warped piece but it should still work out. For the spring action, I will cut a strip of metal off of a large bulldog clip. The metal used on those is flexible but keeps it shape. This will sit under the lever as seen in the photos Aaron posted earlier. Then I need to make a pin to hold the lever in place. Post more photos soon on this. Thanks for stopping by!

Again, great ! Good detective work on finding out why the stock wasn't locking into position & the quick fix. Love the magazine magnet idea! I think it should stay put without incident. Nearly finished adding on all the external parts.

Sick! Ian that is one mean recoil cup. I thought the first attempt was suitable but you took it up a few notches more to incorporate the hollowed out effect. The lip of the cup is great and beveled beautifully. From your photos of it placed in your receiver behind the bolt, you can see the details very clearly and this is something to be proud of creating. Another massive leap in mods! Outstanding!

Looking forward to that!

Super thanks Tony. I really feel like a ship lost at sea going through each part of the build but with the help of everyone here, I have been able to achieve a higher level of detail. I love making things by hand and found with this hobby, you are only limited by your imagination. Hopefully I can follow through to the end and have a nice blaster. Painting models is an uncharted area for me so the road ahead is going to get scary! Thanks for reading along. More to come !

Lol! Crazy stuff. I should probably just get finished with my blaster and enjoy trooping. Aaron is a wealth of information and when he posts details like this, it fuels the fire for more great ideas!

Thanks Aaron for checking the knurl size. Don't know how you manage to get such accurate measurements and dig up the information. You are a magician! I realize the sight guard knurling pattern is such a minor thing to make any fuss over but it feels satisfying to know it can be replicated once you get all the exact details. Owe you another one for going the extra mile once more with your expertise and help. The tool is quite expensive but maybe I can find some cheap flashlight or tool that bears the same sized knurling. Ultimately it would be great to have a flat flexible sheet of plastic that has the 25 TPI male knurling pattern on one side. Then all you need to do is spread a thin layer of epoxy on the guard and then gently apply & press the pattern in one easy motion. It would be easy to just mail it in a flat envelope to whoever needs one.

Hi Hideki! Congratulations! Omedetou gozaimasu! Fantastic work on your armor. Can't wait to meet up on a troop someday soon. Best of luck with your Centurion application when you apply!

I like your idea of making a mold with latex. But best option is probably to just get a new one!

I went on a knurling pattern hunt again. I noticed that the screw on ends to some lifting weights had a very prominent diamond knurling pattern on them. So I did a quick test on some blu tack. The pattern looks slightly too big compared to a real sterling sight guard knurling pattern. Plus the crisscross lines are slanted too much. But it might have to do if a closer match cannot be found or bought. My camera lens has a metal ring that has a nice diamond pattern on it too but only 2 rows wide. Too difficult to get the impressions to line up nice and even. Let me know what you think: *Still working on making the sight block slide comfortably into the dovetail.

Eric, your armor looks great. Congratulations on finishing it.

Thank you again Aaron a million times over. This will be useful for many years to come.

Thanks for posting this Aaron. Always great to have 100% confirmation on parts unknown! Sorry to ask but would you be able to post measurements-?No worries if its a pain to do so. Apologies Ian for hijacking the post.