Bulldog44

Thanks a bunch Christian , Derrek and Art for your help. Its good to know you are not going crazy when you think something looks the same in photos but what you have in hand is not and even better to receive all your first hand knowledge of sterlings! . I will try to sand down the guards to meet those dimensions. Now I have those exact measurements and orientation of the guards on the receiver thanks to you all. Art, the photos are great thanks a million. Great close ups. I will certainly be using them as my reference tonight when I get back to work on the blaster. I am considering to make my own but I need to get this blaster done in under two weeks. My first troop will be on May 4th & a trooper without a blaster is a sitting duck against rebel scum!

Thanks Art. Only if you have time to do so. From all the sterling photos , they almost look the same size so I got confused when I re-examined my doopy parts. Appreciate your help and info !cheers!

Awesome. Thanks Derrek. The more people can clarify this the better. Any comparisons are welcome. I have a DVH1 kit but the guards are really rough too I can't be sure what is really what.

Thanks Derek and Germain! Its funny how the smallest parts can cause a lot of headaches! Germain, your Jedi memory found those great comparison photos! Super!

Could anyone help me with which of the crescent shaped guards goes where? One guard piece is smaller than the other. Its hard to tell from just photos which goes where. One is for the front flash guard = I think it is the later one? The other is the for the ejector port guard- = smaller one? If possible, please confirm if I am correct. about the size and placement of these guards. Thanks.

John, call that (800) number. They ship worldwide. TheDisney operator said they can ship anywhere, just costs more thn in the US. O Japan it costs $25 just to ship one blaster. I m guessing it will cost about the same to the UK. The call itself probably costed my $10. ,I was on hold for 30 minutes long distance but they located 2 blasters for me.

Once my blasters arrive, I will spasm my family to check for a product number. The shop they located the E-11s from was some disney trader shop? Can't remember what exactly the operator said. Maybe it will be on the parcel address.

Had a little time to test fit the bolt plate, compression spring, charging handle and end cap. The charging handle hole on the bolt plate is a bit off the mark causing the plate to shift up a bit high. Tis makes it harder to slide the plate into place where the extractor pin/plunger sits. I was considering to somehow affix that extractor pin part to the bolt plate itself and just carve a channel for it to slide into. The charging handle input jack port needs to be permanently set in the pipe section it sits, keeps getting caught somewhere inside the receiver. To keep the compression spring from rattling around, I cut a small 20 mm section of black PVC pipe and then placed a rubber washer/ring around it. This piece just sits in the spring to the rear and gets pushed forward by the end cap, keeping the spring compressed just enough to stay in place and centred in the receiver. It is almost completely hidden from view. Just need to decide on the extractor pin placement and then glue the stereo jack input port securely in the support tube section. Next after that is to cut the inner barrel pipe to correct length and start on the scope rail and counter bracket.

Excellent work!

Nice work on the dovetail mod! Yeah, once you saw into the receiver, there is no going back but it was a lot easier to do that anticipated. The Doopy receiver is nice and thick to support this kind of mod. Glad you tried it and it looks perfect. Excellent attention to detail. Your how to thread will be helpful to inspire more people to try this. Once I knew this was how the real sterling sights actually were like, I had to have the same way. Best of luck on your build!

Thanks Tino. But you are the original overachiever! Without you going the extra 100 miles on your build, I would never have started all these mods.

Lol. Laughing my way to work reading your post. Honestly I m an amateur at building these! Thanks or the laugh! Aaron, what an excellent idea about the jacks! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I could have made proper use of one of those darn stereo jacks.

Thanks Art! Hoping it turns out nicely in the paint booth when I get to that point. Wish me luck!

I found these bolts in Japan. I think they are the size you are looking for. 16 mm long, 4m but these are stainless. Let me know if you need help getting these if all other options fail. http://ihc.monotaro.com/item/C41746144/ Awesome work on those mic tips!

Here is my assembly for the mock bolt & charging handle: aluminium bolt plate charging handle with stereo jack implant stereo jack input PVC piping for under the bolt plate black PVC pipe used for the spring cup (*not yet cut to length) The holes drilled for the charging handle to fit into were tricky to drill perfectly round. My cheap electric drill wobbles a bit so the hole shaped ended up a bit oval looking. The good thing is that the base for the charging handle is not perfectly round so its hard to tell once it is in place. The stereo input part is not yet glued into place. I will do that once I finalise things. For now it all stays together thanks to the stereo jack connection. It is also convenient to be able to remove the charging handle with ease if I need to.

I would be interested too if someone had DLT templates unzipped & ready for printing.

Thanks so much for posting this! Made my day!

Wow! Where did you get that photo? Looks interesting if that is the real deal.

Thanks McGriff!!! I tried that Disney number. Called last night and was able to order 2 blasters through them. Shipping for both blasters in the US was about $9. Total of roughly $60 for the two blasters. I wanted them shipped to Japan direct but the shipping was $25 per blaster. Opted for shipment to my US address , then forwarded with other SW ordered goodies at a later date! Big thanks as well Scott for posting the news and for always offering to go and buy blasters for us. You are the pioneer to mod these new blasters! Best of luck! Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

Looking awesome Aaron! Those bubble lenses and ears are a work of art! Can't wait to see the armor completed!

Counter Reset Button- I used some found plastic electrical plug cover and cut it in half. This is used at the box casing to house the springs and reset button. I will glue on the white plastic hobby sheeting to enclose it and glue the whole reset unit inside the counter. Test fitting- Just need to trim a bit off the number roll shaft to get it all the fit, install the real screws, maybe make the little thin metal connectors, and then a coat of primer on the weekend. That about wraps up the major counter work.

Folding Stock Wishbone hinge caps- I had to grind down and polish up two new of these cosmetic hinge caps since the last ones where ground down too thin and the central nail part of the thumb tac pushed through the dome when I applied some pressure during gluing. I filled some epoxy under the dome to create more surface area on the underside for gluing. Then used some really strong fast setting epoxy glue and they seem stuck on pretty good. Muzzle Hex Bolts- I made a mess opening the holes to fit the bolts into. The holes I made just made the bolts sit too low in sockets so I cut some plastic rings (as spacers) to adjust the position where they bolts should sit. Then I filled in the cracks and seams with some smooth epoxy. Still needs a little more sanding remove tiny bumps & oddities. If they need to sit deeper in the socket or slightly protruding more from the socket, please let me know. I used a few real sterling photo references but the fine details are hard to truly nail down without ever actually seeing one in person. Thanks Dday for the bolts! They look much better than the local hardware stuff I found.

Cheers Tino! I will be working on the scope again soon and adding the finishing details with the screws you kindly sold me! Loving the amazed look! Thanks for the kind compliments. Hope the finished product will turn out successfully. Thanks as well for your kind comment. Appreciate all your positive comments very much. Feel free to to offer any other ideas or suggestions, constructive criticism as well!

End Cap- Epoxy filled and sanded, ready for primer coat Folding Stock- PVC Black inner tube details- Key slot cut, rear section slot created to allow the magnet to pass through- Magnet catch channel finished- Counter modifications- Polished display window- a bit on the thin side. L shaped bracket installed to mount the number dials- Aluminium sheeting to act as a guide for the other counter half to stay in place. Thin white PVC sheeting to create spacing illusion- Dollar store/100 yen shop counters used for number dials- Not entirely correct but it displays my 5-digit TK number nicely. Almost finished with the counter .

Thanks always Aaron! Your awesome builds and advice feed the OCD machine! I need to be institutionalized! During this build I am often torn between the idea of highlighting the resin kit features or just plain replacing parts. Not sure which is the best path but wherever possible, try to achieve a nice balance so nothing looks out of place. My only big regret so far are the folding stock pivot/hinge pin in the front. Not close enough to the real deal and it sticks out a bit on each side. Thanks again for watching. More to come soon on my doopy counter mod!