Bulldog44

Good luck with your build. Just keep reminding yourself to have fun and mistakes happen but its part of the challenge. If you plan on building the kit without too many modifications then I think it should be fairly straight forward. Make sure to reference real sterling pics to get the parts glued on correctly. There are a number of really cool e-11 builds to check out and refer to (too many to list) There are plenty of FISD members always happy to provide sound advice and answer any questions you have. Are you using Photobucket to post photos?

Thank you again Paul for replying. I did use two different tubes just in case one was bad. No luck. Last night I had enough of the problem and finally used some cement glue to pin down the areas that are giving me trouble. It worked but some of the cement glue seeped under the masking tape. Now I have some minor blemishes along those areas. I did a little light sanding and buffing but guess I will have to live with it. Th price I will pay for my impatience. But seeing that my build spans 2 years its time to get it to use now so I will tackle the belt rivet covers tonight and try to paint the AB buttons. I think those are the final two things to do and then its done.

Thats exactly how the shavings flew off. Strike of luck i picked that bit for the job. Even better, now I know what its called and how its used thanks to you!

I just googled rotozip bits and I think strange enough I must have grabbed the only rotozip bit that came with my dremel set. I thought it was odd how the shavings flew off like tiny toothpicks instead of the normal fine dust. Does that sound correct? It did cut like butter and looks just like your bit used to drill out the mag housing. Strike of luck this time if so. If not, Amazon Japan sells them!

Thanks for the info on the bit. I just blindly used any bit I had to finish hollowing out the mag housing. lucky i didn't destroy it. I will try to buy one of those rotozip bits.might be hard to find here but on the hunt tonight. I will have a more canon friendly counter too to keep it real. Just wanted to pimp some parts out for fun. Most likely I will not get that far. Glad you like the saw. Worth the cost and it will be a nice stocking stuffer.

Hi Paul, Just the shoulder bridges. I had a few other cover strips that wouldn't stay together but that was more of an issue with parts not lining up creating uneven surfaces. But the bridges I have sit really snug to the chest plate surface. I lightly sanded the areas on the chest plate where the bridges will be glued down on and also on the bridges too. I cleaned the parts too. This is probably a combination of me doing something incorrectly and my usual case of bad luck. Has this happened to you before? Any additional advice is certainly welcome.

Not a direct update on my build but info on a nice new tool I recently picked up at the local hobby shop. I think this is the older version but it still works like a charm. If you need to cut very delicate straight lines or precisely trim some resin off a particular part, this tool does it. I used my exacto knife to score lines into my folding stock to add realism and highlight parts muddled by the casting process but could dig only so deep . With this little work horse, I was able to cut much deeper and straighter than before. The cut is also very thin/narrow so you can get within a millimetre if you are careful enough. Wish I found this earlier. I will be relying on this to cut my resin counter in half and then use Aaron's drill bit method to hollow out the insides. Hoping to add some counter numbers, a backlight if possible and use the remaining hollow space to house batteries or a speaker.

Thanks Germain. in haste I tried about 5 -7 minutes this time around. I will wait a bit longer before clamping if the glue doesn't set & need to try again. I should probably stick to the instructions. It probably needs just that little bit extra curing time to set the glue evenly. I did add the extra plastic pieces too for a better surface area. I will update tomorrow after a full 72 hour drying cycle. Praying!

You carved that out like a surgeon! I was going to take out that inner bar all the way to the end like you did but I was afraid I couldn't replicate the key slot where the locking notch pop out from. Looks amazing! Those dental tools have found a new purpose.

I will try less, maybe I used too much

I am kicking myself or not trying something like this when I drilled out my mag housing. I cost myself another $20-30 bucks. Maybe you could carve a favorite scene on the old magazine and sell it as ancient "Star Wars" scrimshaw... Laughed when I read this! Might give it a try when I retire!

I let it dry for 72 hours but no lunch each time. I might give it another try tonight but it will probably happen again. I don't like using the stronger glues in case I make a mistake or the part accidentally shifts while drying.

Trying to wrap up my armor build this week after a long 2 years. I tried gluing the shoulder bridges on with e6000 but each time I have tried, the glue never sets/ cures. I guess no air gets inside enough for the glue to cure. I really wanted to stick with e6000 for all the parts but I might go with something stronger and quicker drying. Has anyone had the same experience with e6000 & the shoulder bridges? Any advice?

Ground breaking technique on the mag. I just tried your method and wow, it really gets the walls thinned down evenly enough to house the mag. I am going to have order a new magazine from Steve now since my first one is now too loose fitting and looks more like a dull whale tooth. Live and learn. Good luck with the exacto carving. It's a lot of work to get the details but its worth the effort I think. Looking forward to seeing your stock when its finished up.

Is that a Doopy Magazine port you are using? My doopy mag port was not big enough to fit Steve's magazine clip at all. I thinned the walls down very thin but still I had to taper the clip to slide it in. Great idea on how to drilll it out.

Thanks Tim for posting your findings. I hope you didn't break the bank to do all this. This will surely help lots of people decide what to buy when they need to. I will order some of the BCG pants based on your findings.

I read up as much as I could about the adafruit soundboard but some of the technical stuff is all Greek to me so I am hoping to follow your lead on this!

Will you use some kind of switch to change between the different play modes? If so, what will work? Allso what speakers will you use for this set up? Great work on the trigger switch set up. Can't wait to see the electronics all set and installed.

Thanks again Ian, I don't how I missed the the big blck bold type that reads optional on the CRL. Stupid is as stupid does. All his time I could have applied for basic status. Better late than never I guess.

Great photos of those fasteners! Thanks as always. I might try that tube idea. Let you know how it goes sometime this week.

Really? I thought I read that it was required. Now I feel like a fool. My mission this week will be to complete my armor then.

One quick question if anyone can help, what type of rivets or fasteners are used on the folding stock for the stock handle (larger ones) and the ones that join the inner pipe to the main stock body? I want to replicate those to some extent but its hard to find anything like that in the hardware store. I tried to use some cap rivet parts to look like like those parts but it always looks a bit off. If you have any suggestions please let me know. The Doopy rivet parts on my folding stock lack any detail of what they should look like. They bigger ones look like round blobs of resin and the smaller ones are not even distinguishable. I am probably wasting time on small details but if I can improve it, then its worth a try.

Some things are worth going in debt for.... Like a real Sterling conversion!!!!!

I am hoping to sort of do the same thing when I get to my DVH kit assembled. I won't be able to remove the trigger group but at least I can remove the grip just for a fun effect. It will make painting easier too. Sleep...........zzzzzzzzz....... I am paying for my late night adventures. I kept passing out early the past two nights. Managed to get some needed epoxy work finished around the retaining pin, set the fake aluminium retaining pin in place and glued the FREE/LOCK pin jack port in place. I promised myself I will do at least one thing each night to keep the build on track. Really want to finish the front sight block this weekend and then get working on the dovetail opening on the receiver to set it in. Sorry to keep you in suspense. My deadline for this build is quickly sneaking up on me. Hoping to apply for my TK status at the beginning of December. The pressure is on!

My doopy kit did not come with a scope rail. I will make one or if I get into trouble doing that, I will order one from Evilboy with the counter bracket attached. Looks pretty straight forward to making one though. Just a little practice and some grinding! No problem Tino. I am slow to respond to my own build posts so thanks for answering that for Sean.