Bulldog44

I haven't watched that video in a long time but as far as I know, no you do not have to paint your entire helmet for official status. The original ANH movie helmets were made with a green/khaki looking plastic so they all had to be painted white. You can see photos of the original helmets with white paint chipped off, exposing the off colored plastic. So maybe that is what the guy in the video was trying to emulate? Or maybe the white plastic used for the kit he had did not match the armor so painted it to get a closer match? <br><br> For 501st approval:<br> Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.<br> Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.<br> Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.<br> The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.<br> Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.<br> Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.<br> Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.<br> Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.<br> Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.<br> Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.<br> Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.<br> Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. <br><br> For level two certification (if applicable):<br> Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.<br> Ear bars have four bumps only.<br> Not three.<br> Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.<br> Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.<br> For level three certification (if applicable):<br> Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).<br> Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.<br> Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).<br><br> Nothing in there that says paint the whole helmet. Hope this helps. <br><br> I have an RS helmet assembled by the RS guys and it is not painted white, just the details I mentioned. <br><br> Good luck with your helmet kit. I have an extra kit myself and hope to assemble it sometime soon. Post photos if you get the chance when you are finished!

Sounds like you have been quite busy! Congrats on passing your exams. Welcome back to the forum as well While you wait for your armor, there are plenty of amazing threads to read through and get ideas, easily 5 months of pure entertainment! Check out the Aaron's great Interior Kit for TK helmets in the sales section, certainly a nice way to customize your helmet.

Oh no! Not another backpack I feel compelled to build! Looks cool. Can't wait to see these guys in action. Thanks for posting this.

Good luck with your build!

Great to hear! My train commute can be quite dull so your blaster updates are a treat! No pressure though, I know these things take time.

Jealous! Enjoy every inch of your new space. Loving the poster!

Any news on this blaster? Hope production is going well. Love to see any new developments when they become available.

Your armor looks amazing Theo! Nice work on it. Well fitted and the details are all there. Loving the helmet interior!

Awesome newsletter as usual! Tim, your message speaks volumes. Great people here for sure with an excellent captain leading the ship! Thanks always. <br> Congrats Derrek! Cool way to propose.

Spectacular work!

Looking awesome Theo! Love your inner helmet set up. Total pro!

Cool! Sounds easy enough! I wasn't sure if the torches had a different battery set up than ones used on other blasters kits. Thanks for the info and sorry to keep you from making more progress on these amazing blasters.

Sorry to add to my question but will it be easy to change batteries for the torch? I can see some small opening on the stock towards the front of the blaster in your latest pictures, is that the access area for the torch batteries? <br><br> Glad to hear you will offer both the rubber and plastic for the grips and wipers. Thanks for taking time to reply to my inquiry.

Thanks for the kinds words Peter. No worries about hijacking , having your feedback is important and deeply appreciated. Happy I could make a scope you are pleased with. Cheers!

Wow. Those are some clean looking printed parts! Will you offer the kits with both the rubber and plastic grip if requested? <br> Will the torches be wired to a central power source or are all the electronics independently powered from one another. Just curious as you mentioned the torches will be pre installed and wasnt sure if they are powered by some sort of small battery source. Sorry the amateur question, not sure how the screen used blasters were powered or set up inside.

You could combine both but separate in this section is better i think. If you decide to start a separate build thread here in the weapons section, best to choose the section for what version/ movie blaster you a building. Example- ANH e-11. ESB, etc.

Beautiful!

Happy to help. Certainly check out the blaster reference for many great mods to try. There are many great builds as well to refer too. Please feel free to reach out anytime if you have questions. The Doopy kit is a lot of fun to work with and even if you make a mistake, there is always some way to fix things. Looking forward to seeing your blaster when you get it finished. Certainly start a build thread if you have time to do it. Great way to log your progress, ask questions and get direct feedback.

My pleasure. Good luck with your build!

Certainly keep the details as they are, I wouldn't drill or sand them off. The original blasters would have still have had the sterling details visible but just painted over in black. The power cylinders will be placed on top of this anyway if you choose to use them so you won't see much. <br><br><br> You can also modify the serial number to match your 501st ID. This mod can be seen in the blaster reference, chapter 15. <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?p=414368'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?p=414368</a>

Looking forward to it! Certainly let me know if the hardware shop screws are perfect matches for the scopes. I am waiting on some lenses I ordered to see if they will work in the M19 scope kits. Post my findings once I get them in hand.

Thanks for posting progress pics! Looks great so far. Sorry the larger end was not big enough to fit the original lens as hoped. But you did a fantastic job installing it as you did and it looks good. I can send you a few slightly larger retainer rings to fit better if that helps once I get back to Japan. No sweat at all, just let me know. Really relieved you are happy with your kit and posted photos. Truly appreciate you and other members here on the FISD purchasing a kit or two. All your support and great build results gives me more enthusiasm to continue this project and push the kit to perfection as much as possible. Many thanks again Adam!

Awesome work on the scope Theo! Glad you are happy with it. Thanks for posting your progress. Cool to see how you tackled the large lens install, red lens looks great. I do apologize the threading for the lens assembly parts is still an issue with my kit and hope I can make the threading function like the original scopes sometime soon.cheers again!

Very cool setup. Thanks for sharing this!

Looks amazing! Depending on the price I might be interested in two kits. Thanks for the updates and information. Exciting to see this progress and can't wait to see actual kit parts casted when that starts happening. Love how you are having metal parts machined and the grip casted in black rubber. Cheers for doing this!