The5thHorseman

A nice feature to add would be the possibilty to quote someone's nickname by putting an "@" before it. Once done the person is notified of it and where it's been done so he can chime into the conversation to answer a question asked specifically to him. e.g. "What does @Gazmosis thinks about it?"

If you're absolutely positive about cutting the cod, when it comes to its reattachment i'd say a rigid method would be for the best. When using a "soft" method, the cod might be pulled towards you by the crotch strap making an unwanted angle, and after some movements around it will most likely got stuck underneath you abdominal plate and you will suffer from the "bikini cod" syndrome. Also keep that syndrome in mind when you remove ABS from the top of the cod. Very nice job on the thumbsprint!! It looks stellar.

That seems very promising! Good luck with the heat iron .

On this helmet, there are 11 stripes. Greg is right, it varies from helmet to helmet. I'd say from 11 up to 15! But the most common for Stunt would be 12.

It is still true. The case just doesn't occur often . I'd say your assumption is right. Keep them as small as possible.

On Vern's pic all thighs have the same length. Matthew, i don't really understand what you mean by "flat horizontal thigh tops" but honestly it sounds bad to me. You should post a picture with the trim line you're envisaging if you want the guys to help you properly. And just so you know, it is normal if the thighs prevent you from sitting or bending too much. Try twisting them outwards with your hands before attempting to sit as it will certainly help you without having to trim anything.

25mm only for the back of the shins. The back cover stripes on the thighs should be 20mm wide just like the front ones.

If you wonder about painting it white for accuracy, before doing that you would have to paint it first in a khaki color, then primer it with a chocolate color and only after that paint it white. As Locitus says, this sounds quite overkilling for an AP helmet.

Having "fake" brackets on your armor only for the outside appearance is perfectly approvable and has already been done before. However if you put on the brackets and have a TM 1.5mm ABS armor i would strongly recommand you to use them as the original strapping method is in no way comparable to snap plates. However if you have a 2mm thick armor then using snap plates makes sense as the original bracket will tend to make cracks in the ABS because 2mm thick isn't quite flexible enough for them.

Even easier, to glue fabric to ABS with e6000 you don't need any clamping at all if there's no tension in it.

It's been around for quite some time now. The "French Blue" has never been certified as The color, but as a very good match. The best way to make yourself an opinion is to look at some original pictures and then make your own mix:

I see. Honestly i have no magic solution for that except that the crotch strap and the belt together WILL make a difference. Also, on the front pic i can see that your straps inside the armor that go from the kidney to the abdomen aren't glued all the way up to the edge. I would advise you to do so as i think it will help the kidney plate to form around your body. In last resort, if that doesn't modify anything, you will definitely need heat to reshape the plate. When you look at the original they seem heavily reshaped at the top of the kidney/ab:

I'm having hard time understanding those two items... I don't know if you're labeling the armor parts the way we use to do it, so just to be sure here's a little stormtrooper armor lexical: What i could say is, you really need to get yourself a proper undersuit. That sweater is really messing with your arm parts. Also, i would strongly recommand you to strap the bottom of the biceps with the top of the forearms together if this is not planned yet. The shoulder bells also need to be brought more forward to close those gaps between them and the chest plate. Otherwise it looks pretty good!

Like Dan says, check out the calendar.

Yes, cut them like that: And then if you can tilt the ABS panel downward. Reference:

Not always : But i agree, most of the time the S trim seam is at the back. And BTW Dan, very nice job you did on that helmet! You nailed the teeth trimming. Very often, they're not done square or there's still some leftover around, but not on yours.

That's how eyes and teeth should be trimmed on a helmet. Very well done! And so far the forearm looks good too. About straight lines, the score & snap technic is by far the easiest way to do it. Are you sure it won't work with PVC? You might just have to score the PVC few more times than what you would do with ABS.

You should definetely remove those return adges at the ankles or they will tear your boots to pieces, and in addition it will help you fitting the boots in the shins .

Apart from your biceps being too large, you really nailed it Paul! Really nice job. I don't know why people keep quoting that. The hip extension (when the leg goes towards the back) is merely 10° to 20° which is practically nothing. So when you walk the top of the thigh at the back won't really conflict more with the butt plate than what it is when standing still. Try it at home, stand up and bring your leg as far as you can towards the back without leaning the torso forward. Trust me you won't get far .

Awesome paintjob Aaron. Looks wonderful. You must live in a far far away galaxy where 1+2 is equal to 2... : p

There's no correct "amount" of biceps to be hidden inside the shoulder bell because this is not relevant when strapping the arms together. The key thing is to strap the biceps with the forearm with an elastic strap leaving no gap between them. And basically you're done. If you want to add a strap between the biceps and shoulder bell for more safety then just sleeve the biceps w/ forearm, position your elbow at the junction between both, and then you have the "correct" position of your biceps. Interesting read about the matter: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19372-correct-bicep-to-forearm-connection-anhesb-video-and-photo-references/

My heart skipped a beat... Wunderbar!! That blaster definitely deserves a stand and you did an excellent work with yours. Superb!

RS Props are more than trustworthy. They'll get your armor done and shipped to you, even if they exceed a bit the schedule. Don't worry too much. It would also help to know if you have purchased the armor in kit form or fully assembled to estimate the waiting time.

Why? Well, because that's how it was made on the film . In fact, i believe they widened the shins cover stripes only to help hiding the holes they made for the hooks. And when you think about it, if 20mm is enough to close the front, why wouldn't it be enough for the back? However, just to settle things, nothing prevents you to make the back cover stripes for the thighs 25mm wide, it is very common and well accepted (i even have my own cover stripes 25mm, rookie mistake!).

25mm is only for the back of the shins, the back cover stripes for the thighs are 20mm like the front ones .