Dday

While not being a total showstopper, you can also do white first then black. The white seems to gloss better with a black gloss base.

Bad news is that it's easier to start with black. Good news is that with a glossy black base your white will be even glossier.

Use white duct tape/gaffers tape. Screen accurate and screen accurate You can also reinforce from behind with some t-shirt fabric superglued down. This is a very good way to reinforce return edges because the cloth lays flat and catches all contours.

Well, I"m late to tell you, but yes the lines are for cutting Hold it up to the light, much easier to see. Again, too late though!

I believe that the color (based on research by R2Dan) is RAL 9010. You can find some RAL color converters to get the USA version. It's basically a clean white, with a very soft cream shade. Though in reality, it doesn't matter, as long as it matches the color you paint the armor, if you intend to. There are a couple different blacks used in the helmet. For the frown and temple areas it's a glossy black. The brow stripe, the stripe along the bottom and the 2 trap stripes just above the bottom like are a satin type black. I think the brow was actually a rubber thing, since the originals were injection molded similar to the way Anovos makes their standard line helmets. But in painting, satin catches it. The 2 bottom area lines were actually some sort of PVC/vinyl tape or decal. In the high res photos of these areas you can see small bubbles trapped under the surface. They have the same finish as electrical tape does. So save yourself some trouble masking these areas off and just cut some electrical tape down to size and shape. The thing about sanding I've heard is never use your hand. always sand with a block. You'll never get a smooth even surface with your hands because your fingers put pressure in certain areas making an uneven finish. Wetsanding is easy though. just get paper made for this and a bucket of water. splash some on the helmet, dip the paper in and sand away. always with circular motions. make sure it stays wet and it will really get nice and smooth. The screen buckets were really shiny. The white is a high gloss. Though even without a high gloss automotive shine they helmets look really good. This type of shine is very hard to get at home without all the right tools.

Since you are using a clear acrylic, you could put a small nub on the plate the direction of the tilt so the grip would stop this. IT would be hardly noticeable and would only need to be about 2-4mm tall. Just enough to stop the grip from twisting.

I would make a suggestion. Some blasters will not hold on your stand well. I've found when making a few stands myself that the blaster tends to tilt because the side with the magazine is heavier. Depending on the fit and how it connects to the blaster as well as the material being used in the cradle this may not be an issue but it's something to think of. With a resin copy it's much less noticeable but if someone has a real magazine or a sterling, it's super heavy on this side and will turn over.

Looking good man! Gotta do a lot of wetsanding the primer and layers of paint to get it to glossssssssss!

bump this Good details.

Jim! This is your helmet (good to connect the different sites), I've been watching it on FB and never connected you to it. Well done, looking forward to seeing it come to life. I think you have the best hand sculpted version going.

Reelprops from the RPF makes a lot of helmets. Sometimes his helmets lack in the nitpicky 100% details depending on when and how much details he has when he starts (reference materials), but over all decent gear.

It really sucks that you had such a bad experience with Paul . I've been working with Paul for the last (ever) since I first started and have never run into an issue. I'm not saying it can't happen but just that I think you fell into a gap and it sucks how it worked out but this is 100% not indicative of Pauls normal business dealings. Every private prop maker/producer can and does fall behind. Sometimes it takes a little extra patience and understanding. From your post, it looks like you went about this level headed, and just things went twisted somewhere. Paul is a stand up guy and always delivers.

Now for the value based on time spent creating and modifying. Given even a very low per hour price of 15 Euros per hour. Total cost for this piece over, 3000 Euros

No problem!

Lol 13 months after my original post...

It isn't as bad as your thing, but I've cut my share of tracks wrong not thinking properly about the location of the scope rail. Loos like you really salvaged it though. well done. If I was on your spot, I might just have glued that part of the track down instead of trying to get it into the hole Well, maybe not... but I might have tried until it bugged the crap out of me.

Oh man, this is getting linked in my thread Doing all my work for me.... well for everyone else too!

These are all build from my kits. To the casual eye it it hard to see the differences if the build is done well. It's down to the fine details. The fastest way to see a doopy is the VERY short magazine and build in T-Tracks. There are other differences like the Serial numbers, the style of the power cells on top of the magazine, metal tube vs resin tube, front sight style and connection method, Flash guards, full length bolt, spring.... oh, well, basically everything. A well built doopy looks great, but really can't hold up against a kit like mine or anyone else that is 1:1 cast from a sterling kit with no/minor modifications.

I refuse to stroke your ego any more. Even though it's absolutely deserved.

Tino.... virtually indistinguishable from the real thing unless you're actually holding it in your hand. Now thats quite a feat!

If you buy the metal holster kit from R2Dan I believe these come with it. They are different vs the other bolts in that they are a thick flat headed item to properly fit into the grooves.

This is good, but you notice the indentions go in vs out. The right stuff has the diamonds sticking up. I've had an amount on order from Rubbersheet roll but I haven't gotten it just yet. Once I do have it, lets chat.

I"m so flabbergasted right now.

looks good to me! So you needed 6 M4 rounded hex head bolts, Was there something else I didn't see?

Did you put the cut on the underside of the chin? I thought about this as well, to basically roll the silicone off of the casting. The undercuts are just too much for this, so maybe a cut on the front and back just to uncover the return edges?