Dday

Ah, in the review they talked about you having the ability to work from all locations, so I thought that was interesting. You might want to have them correct that, if they only ship from the UK. All in all not a big difference, just in inaccuracy in the review.

Yup, this is a big one. I wish you luck with this and that things work out for you in the future. Post the suit in the junkyard, make sure to add photos and a price, as they are required by the rules.

I noticed that the article said that you can have items originate in the UK, Germany or the USA directly so there are no problem with shipping/import. Do you have people at each location who manufacture them or people in those locations that you have made suits ready to ship?

I believe you need 5 posts.... you're almost there!

Checked it, love it! It's always great to be recognized for your hard work and addition to the community. Well deserved.

Box knife. The foam shouldn't be very solid, it's basically the cheap non-dense foam. If you're using the dense, pillow/bed type foam it will be hard to cut, but regardless, box knife is the way to go if you don't like the scissors.

You'll get more traction if you post this in the for sale section with photos and a price.

There is no need for a consistent 10-12mm line... just get a thought of how much you need to cut and cut it There is nothing smooth about the lines and cuts made on the original suits. One thing to keep in mind, don't overthink it On the other side, do the research to know how it's supposed to look and be done, so you don't end up having to buy new parts.

For the return edge, 10mm is as low as you want go, but I wouldn't leave much more then 12. It will effect how the chest sits on the ab plate if there is too much extra.

Edwin, Can you do me a favor, since you have a recent PVC suit... does it feel like the pieces are thick and heavy or light and super flexible. I know it's hard to compare since this might be the first suit you've touched, but take a swing at it, tell me what you think.

You're absolutely right. In the end, we each have the ability to pick how we want to troop. There are people in both camps. In the end, it's what makes you happy, and gives you the most enjoyment while trooping.

I think the tracks will look ok like that. It won't be accurate, but it will still look good since you carved them down and formed them to emulate the stuck in effect. It's all down to how nitpicky you want to be and what is in the budget. IT can be one of your items you chose to fix later down the road

The screw under the handle, you'll want to thread that in as it should be flush with the bottom. The hole is perfect so you just need to get an allen wrench and turn it in. Also, why did you decide on cutting the tracks and laying them on top vs bending and putting the tips through the holes?

Happens to the best of us! No is going to stop you selling your DT if you decide to sell it with a calm level head. We just try to slow things down when knee jerk reactions land and get your blood pumping. Would hate you to sell it and then have sellers remorse because you found a bunch of troops for it.

Do a google for RS propmasters

It is true, there is a very limited use for a DT. It is a niche costume. Zombies are in their heyday right now though. I think if you look a bit wider you will find there are a few zombie type events, metal concerts and such. But you'll never get as much use out of a DT as you will with the normal TK. Don't worry about people frowning on it... enough people frown on stormtroopers too.. don't pay attention to them, there will always be haters out there. If you enjoy it, thats what matters. There are plenty of lovers out there as well.

John, sorry it took so long... IT's only in my basement, not like I had to walk 3 miles in the snow to get this... I went a little overkill, especially since this isn't a real, screen used sweaty smells 36 year old helmet sponge.... but at least you'll have everything you need for measurements.. I hope. -------

Yes, the kit I offer is like you said. I also do individual parts from my kit if you want something specific for your build. You're doing a great job for DIY materials and a general concept!

Another mistake sadly... not sure what they were thinking. I'm sure it was done for effect. I'm not sure how a lightsaber can shear metal droids with a clean, heat cut, cut through metal pipes with a clean cut, be driven through a thick metal door and be used to melt it... then cause blood when it cuts a living being... but not all the time, only some of the time. It's inconsistencies like this that make our world so alive, and unique.

Yeah, I always disagreed with that scene. Look at Lukes hand in ESB, clean cut, no blood.

I hate to be the picky one but a lightsaber cut wouldn't be frayed at the edges, as it is a plasma type weapon, it heats to cut. It would not leave blood or frayed edges. Just a perfect smooth cut and cauterized edges, non bloody edges. Maybe it was cut open with a vibroaxe or something

I'm in agreement with Dizzy. The original suits builders didn't use sandpaper at all, just boxcutters and razors! But for us, sanding down some edges is nice! 140-160 grit it perfect and takes this stray pieces off the edges. Just be careful with the sanding bit, it's easy to take off too much. However, it's great for the corners and really rough spots to even it out.

Steve, to answer your questions: Paint was standard flat black spray paint. Not special plastic paint or anything. For more accuracy you do the grip in satin or gloss black. I did the first 2 coats in flat black, then lightly went over the grip itself with the satin black. I stress lightly, just a light coating. You don't want it to blind you just be a little shinier. I started with slanted track ends, which will hold the tracks in there all by themselves, but this was making the middle bow up and not lay flat like I wanted. I didn't want to play too much with heat bending the middle so I didn't mess them up, so I went with the ends point straight down. This means they aren't in there very tight by themselves. This led me to add a drop of E6000 on the corners where the tube holes meet the plastic track to hold them steady. Glueing the middle didn't work since the track doesn't sit exactly on the tube and the underside of the track is also concave, so gluing the middle was trouble. The rail, just cut it with the dremel cutting disks. I used a larger grinder/cutter with a 1mm thin blade to do my cuts, since that takes like 5 seconds vs a few minutes with the dremel. IF you're using the larger, be careful, it can sometimes be too much power and slip, grinding the rail in the wrong spots. For the shaping of the curve on the front, I just used a vise I have in the shop and slowly lightly bent the front curve, then the tab that slips in the hole. Once it was bend, I cut the extra 1cm off the tab to it didn't bump into the T-Track tip in the tube. Also, I realized me not putting in the spring was basically a cop out and me being lazy. Adding the spring is such a cinch, so I just did it. No photos, but it's easy. You take a wire hanger.... I had an uncoated, unpainted standard silver one (which is best)... and straightened it out with a pair of plyers. Then I took and wrapped it around a broom handle. Once it was done, I took it off and fixed the spacing with my fingers and viola! Done. I was inadvertently lucky though, the bolt I used to hold the read right and rail on sticks inside the tube a little. This actually acted as a threading point for the new spring. The wire turned in based on this point and this will also help keep it steady and not rattle on the inside or move.

John, I've got an uncut RS helmet pad. I'll give you some pics and some measurements tomorrow.

So, the final steps revealed! I realized that I didn't feel good about just glueing the folding stock on. It is one of the heaviest pieces, so I decided to glue it on. I used a small screw with a washer, since the hole was drilled and the screw alone wasn't enough. Screw it in from the top row of holes into a predrilled hole on the thick part of the stock. Now this was sorted, the sun had come out so it's time to get some paint on! Bending the T-Tracks was interesting. to do it, I drilled a hole in a wood 2x4 and used this edge to fold it down once heated with a heat gun. Be aware, heatguns heat the plastic very fast! If you aren't careful the structure of the track will collapse, warm, melt and many other terrible things. So heat it slowly and carefully just until it is able to be shaped with a little pressure. Leave the very top track off for this moment. I got the tracks to fit in the best and lay flat when I pointed the ends straight down. If the tracks are slanted at an angle on the ends, it naturally will want to bow up in the middle. After the tracks are fitted in there good (add some glue to the edges where they go into the holes if they aren't fitting in tight and moving around some). and before you glue in the end cap lock, you'll want to mount the folding stock. Pass the screw and washer through the end of the tube and screw it down. You will need to have the bolt out for the washer to fit through as well. Now you have to glue the endcap lock in and glue the D-ring cap on the end cap. Make sure you fit the endcap on the lock first and find out the right positioning so it sits straight. Now you're done. Here is the finished E11. I've weathered it with dry brushing on some silver and then chipping off some of the paint on the aluminum parts. Just remember, the tracks are not metal, so no battle damage on these. The scope is brass under, so if you weather this, use a copper or a copperish brown. If there was 1 more thing to do, I think it would be to add a spring to the back of the bolt. However, I'll leave that to the new owner, give him a little bit to do for excitement.