gmrhodes13

Nice work

Please stand by, A.C. is not on the forum everday and well be along in due course

WOW what a find, SCORE

Good luck, hope you have a great experience, hospital troops can be very rewarding but also can be quite confronting "Squire" I guess that's the name which is used locally for a wrangler/handler

A nice surprise albeit you'd think they would try to notify you will such a big delivery. They are useless here, I had a printer delivered on good Friday when everything was closed, no notification and only saw the box the next morning on my way out to walk the dogs, luckily it hadn't been taken. I don't use the hard hats, I have a thin 10mm piece of foam on the top of the helmet and small blocks of foam on the sides, stops the helmet from wobbling. I found the same issue, color was a little different between the plastic (base helmet) and the premier line (fibreglass) luckily the plastic matched a base white from the auto shop, premier line I have on show. Looking forward to seeing the build progress

That is the wrong link, that is to our 501st forum profile, not membership profile, take a look at the first post in this thread for instructions

Just take care with the premier line helmet, they were made from fibreglass and a little week around the neck opening, they used to ship the helmets with a cross brace of wood inside the neck which was tensioned, this also caused some cracking due to the weight of the helmet and movement in transport. The early run also had no rubber around the neck so this could be a newer version or someone may have added it later. Any way don't hold the helmet by the neck just in case DN are trying not to make the same mistakes as Anovos and are dealing with orders very, very quickly and waiting until they have things in stock before selling (unless pre ordered), they have a lot of work to do before the Star Wars community trust another main stream company. Hope you are doing your research, things will be in your hands in no time

I run an MP3 player through my chest Aker amp and that works well. With having the speaker in your TD you may have to cut some vents to allow the sound to come out (unless you are just going to leave a cap off). Wouldn't be too bad on the inside so it's covered by the belt, but that may muffle the sound. Trial and error, looking forward to seeing how this goes.

Hello and welcome aboard, another great thread full of stormtrooper info

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper If you wish you could start a trooping record, you can request awards at certain levels, info here A few links may be worth a read: https://databank.501st.com/databank/TrooperSurvivalGuide Looking forward to seeing more of your trooping photos

Feedback from EIB was too lower the forearms, but I didn't mean to drop the biceps. I think getting them sitting properly should solve the forearms issue, but I'll be mindful of that when dressing next. In between would be great, I went back and looked at your other photos I tried getting my shins lower. I really couldn't. I have very large feet (size 14), and my feet really slope a long way. In this shot, the shins are basically digging in the top of my feet. The only way to get the to sit lower would be to trip the bottom of the shins (making a bit more of an arc). I might try a hot water bath to re-shape them a bit first. My shoes are not close to coming out when I walk, so I guess I'm wondering, do you think it's a CRL issue for the shins, or just a practicality issue with the boots? Shouldn't be an issue, wasn't mentioned at EIB so I'd go with them see if anything is said. I think you would have to increase the circumference, really only way would be to add larger cover strips, but as I say see what is said. For the butt, I'll see if I can tighten that up a bit The Han snap was placed with measurements from our armorer, as long as it's not an issue, I may try to submit with it rather that take out the snap and relocate. I didn't enjoy doing that with we misplaced our rivets. Obviously, I'll move it if I need to in order to get it right. I think you should be ok, may be mentioned I will address the drop-box issue. Sometimes it's fine. I usually just give them a bit of a tug, and they are ok, but I'll try to lengthen the straps a bit For the thighs, again, I was following our armorer instructions (he uses a spray paint can to make the shape) and said he does that for Centurion, which is why I did it this way. I will try to add a but of an edge to it. Curve on lower corner is current, just the top rivet corner should be sharp BUT I think you should be ok I've been having issues with the calves. I'm wondering if I cut them on an angle of something. Would I be able to put a shim piece behind them to bridge that gap from behind? I have a small piece of plastic glued on one side behind mine, works well and can no longer see a gap Been struggling with the TD clips. I will try to improve them for sure I'm worried if I curve the shoulder bells, it would actually make them look farther away. I have a big chest, and closing that gap has been my biggest concern. Biggest worry is that if I cut it, I can't go back. No issues, not everyone does them, won't stop approval

Small differences between ANH to ESB, swapping out some parts and you can get approved in both. ROTJ is a completely different helmet and armor. This spreadsheet may help: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

Looking good, just watch alignment of parts, hand plates hitting your forearms, I would bring them up a little, in fact your biceps should come upwards too, your right arm the bicep is almost all the way out of your shoulder, which you can also see on the rear. Shins are a little high on your boots, you may find the boots poke out when walking, having elastic or nylon inside can help. Posterior just pushing back a little in this image, looks though that you have quite a few preventative attachment's inside the armor though. Han snap is a little low and a little close to the end, BUT a precise position is not mentioned in the CRL: A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. Your drop boxes are overlapping the belt, you may want to lengthen the elastic a little so they sit better. Shouldn't have a rounded top corner but not mentioned previously Small gap top of the back of the calves, try to get them to close fully You can also see a lot of bracket on your detonator, note the TD should sit more central to the belt, references bellow You can also add a curve to your shoulder bells (if you wish too) can sit closer to the chest Some of the above may not get mentioned so don't stress just try to address the gaps and positions of pieces and you should be good to go.

Looking forward to seeing photos soon

You could post them here for some feedback, it will keep your Centurion application clean, but entirely up to you which way you want to go, either is fine

Great to here, make sure you do your research so you are ready to go, this thread pretty much covers most of builders questions

It's definitely a good idea to keep a small tool kit with you, there have been countless times I've heard "anyone got some glue" Great thread here from Joseph on Emergency Trooping Kit

Hello and welcome aboard, some information for you to get you started

That's not the right link, that link is to your legion forum profile, have a read of the first post in this thread as it explains how to find your membership profile

Only difference I find between painted and non painted is the after care, I have soft pouches for all my armor so they don't get chipped or scratched in transport. The occasional crack can happen with painted and non painted but sometimes the painted can chip which is a little harder to fix. There is also some of the details which need work, forearms, yoke to back and abdomen, all need either filling with automotive filler then painted or filled with ABS paste sanded and compound polish. All the first runs of the ANOVOS FOTK's where painted as they also needed joining in quite a few places. Some have built their DN suits with ABS paste and I've seen a few fully painted, there are really pros and cons for both so it's entirely up to each individual how they want to build and finish.

Legs: Thigh front and back 20mm Shin front 20mm, rear 25mm

I use these for snap plate holders, especially when using nylon snap plates, clamp one piece on either side Just watch trimming the ends of the cover strips I noticed this one looked a little round, screen where just trimmed angled

This is my trick for stubborn snap posts A block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help when sanding parts to get straight lines/cuts.

Came out a treat, you must be happy with that.

There isn't much weird we haven't seen before It's much the same way as using a pencil wood scribe, I'm pretty simple so a ruler and pencil does fine.