gmrhodes13

The shins yes I would remove excess from the bottom and the thighs you would have to take the excess from the top, then you could make a new return edge using a heating iron, they are used in model plane construction, you could even try a home iron on a low heat but it would be a bit cumbersome. It is not an easy thing to do so I would suggest trying on some scrap pieces of ABS first and see how you go.

Align the bottoms and you can either leave the tops or use some and fold over the excess, both are approvable

Excellent, good hunting

If you have been supplied flat pieces of ABS for the cover strips I would use that, I don't think a small difference in color will affect the build, using the square pieces it will be easier to make the strips straight with the score and snap method. If you notice in some pictures even with matching ABS on a suit it can still look a different color just because of shadows.

For trimming pieces some use the score and snap method, you can use scissors but my favorite tool is my Dremel, or should I say cheapy knock off version of one, basically use a cutting disc for straight lines and a sanding drum for all the curves . Don't panic yet I am sure you will do fine.

Agreed, the e6000 side will come apart easily but the other may cause you a problem. Cover strips if placed properly over overlapped pieces will work if done correctly but ideally the butt join cover strip method is best. Keep up the good work

For EIB and Centurion you should really butt join and use cover strips, a great butt joining thread here

Are you thinking of going for EIB or Centurion, if so you may have to add a cover strip same as on the rear. If you are happy with basic approval then you should be fine.

For more info check out the build here

Cool, you may need some new photo's then

You may need to cut off the extra strands of white hanging down from your belt

Forgot to mention using pvc caps, all you have to do is sand off any wording off the ends, you can also fit it to a pipe, heat the center and use a jar to push the center of the cap into the pipe to give it the recess that end caps have. Sounds like you are on the right track, oops did someone mention recast

As I say I could have a go but it's not worth you wasting money if it doesn't fit, sorry I couldn't help

That's what we are here for

Just my 2 cents most seem to be happy with the armor, the let down as Phil has said is the 3 piece lid, putting a two piece together can be tricky enough but a three piece, why oh why be that mean

Bit different to the size I have been making. The entire length 9 inches, across 5 inches, side thickness 1 inch and wall thickness 1/2 inch. Would be a bit hard to make a pouch to suit yours without having the binders in front of me, I couldn't be 100% they would fit. You may be better off finding a leather worker and get them to match one to your binders.

Congrats trooper and welcome to the ranks

Congrats trooper and welcome to the ranks

ATA do not do a separate ear bud (grey part) sounds more like an AM, contact details from armor makers are in the Getting Started section. The hand armor you can use black rubber gloves and get some latex hand plates from either Karin or trooperbay

If you can let me know length, width and thickness and I can check if theres much difference

Congrats looks great, well done

Hi there I do make them and holsters, if you can give me measurements of yours I will see if it with fit my binder pouch. Mine can be seen here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25165-fs-imperial-binders-handcuffs/

Awesome that's what I like to see, heading for Centurion from the get go, good luck with the build

Mine came with my ATA, some get theirs from trooperbay, ebay and hardware stores, just make sure you can't bee seen through it

This one has come up a few times, why would they even bother making it