gmrhodes13

Nice work, a bit of info on the tube stripes: Helmet Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

Doopy Doos used to sell an upgrade kit to make them a little more accurate but unfortunately no longer available, if you own or know someone with a 3D printer there are some files available here Lots of build threads on the forum, just search Hasbro in the E-11 section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=hasbro&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=116

Normally we use a free online image host such as Imgur, upload your photos there and copy the links into the thread Once again very soft details on your images, you also molded the ab plates to the abdomen, these should be separate, posterior doesn't look right Very soft pull, especially the O Thigh ammos strip mounted incorrectly Sorry I don't have time to go through every photo, perhaps post a build thread

The details are not very sharp, it actually looks like it's been recast from another helmet, be great if we could see the molds used to make these. "Recasting is a process whereby someone takes a prop that has already been made and makes a copy of it. Props are sometimes 100% fan created, sometimes are found items (e.g. a henglster counter that they bought), or from a private collector prop such as a screen used helmet that someone bought at auction. The whole argument against recasting is to protect prop makers that we depend on for our hobby, pure and simple. Let's take the case of a fan made item such as TM's armor. He put an awful lot of labor in to making this and by selling copies does the rest of us a favor, as creating your own fan sculpted armor is out of reach for most folks. By recasting his work it is a dis-incentive for him and others who do fan made props to offer anything up for sale. No fan made props heavily curtails our ability to enjoy our hobby. So member of this community go out of their way to protect this person's art work as we'd like to be recipients of his labors." We have a whole section just on "recasting" https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/225-recasting-discussion/ If it's not "recast" then I would suggest the maker adjust his/her molds to make the details crisper. There are other helmets available out there with crisper details and I would suggest purchasing from there, here's our "vetted sellers" thread Same helmet different thread

Really depends on your arms and the fit, you can remove all of the return edge or leave some to fill the space if needed. Front to the forearms you remove ALL the return edge. For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below. Great thread here on return edges

Hello and welcome back, a build thread will definitely give you feedback on how your build is progressing as well as giving valuable tips and tricks, good luck

Hello what make is this armor, it looks very soft in the details Same helmet different thread See how soft the details are compared with screen used

There are still a few places that look to be on the gums A toothpick is a good tool to remove any excess paint

Just watch any paint on the gums: For Basic approval and above, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.

Reference Crow Props boots

Here's another RWA for comparison (approved at EI). 1 large tab and 4 1/2 small tabs on chest.

You may be better contacting the maker directly https://www.facebook.com/trooperamp Or try the blastfx FB user group https://www.facebook.com/groups/blastfxbuilders/

Hello and welcome aboard, a thread full of helpful information Good luck with the research

That will be them With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips For Level 2: 1. Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip). V-head or Philips screws are not permitted. Nice work on the spacing

Hello and welcome look forward to following your build, good luck

Great layout for internal strapping A good video series here for when you run out and get bored https://www.youtube.com/@RichieStormtrooper Info on snap setting

Hello and welcome, there are a few quality/detail issues with SDS (Shepperton Design Studios aka originalstormtrooper.com), this thread may help you, @Helotech put in a lot of rework on his SDS kit, most mentioned in his pre approval thread Also his build thread Another SDS pre approval Just takes a bit of work to get them to an approvable costume but I'm sure with garrison help you will do just fine. Good luck and any questions please let us know

Very nice, helmet may need some updating, ESB used different tube stripe and cheek traps decals References Here are some of the differences between the OT versions https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view Good luck with the build

Have you thought of reaching out to your local garrison/squad, someone may be able to print for you https://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php Although these are for the Hasbro blaster you may be able to use them for the Rubies blaster

It is amazing how much you can achieve once you get in the groove

Congratulations, looking much better. One other thing, drop boxes should align with the ends of the plastic belt, add a small amount of glue under the elastic can help keep them in the correct position For Level 3, Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

Some makes of armor the shoulders are just too small and it is hard to get them close to the chest. Moving the snaps further forward on the shoulder strap elastic can help pull them in on the front when you have moved your arms.

Looking good. For L3 you may want to bring your belt up a touch The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. You could also apply some heat and curve your belt so it's not sticking out on the sides, it may catch on your forearms when moving. Note using heat it is best to test on scraps, you can use either heat gun, torch, hair dryer or hot water bath, but make sure you practice, it doesn't take much heat for plastic to go out of shape.

@Deployment Officer Team should be able to answer that for you

You need to add a link to your legion membership profile, have a read of the first post in this thread for instructions