gmrhodes13

Really depends on your arms and the fit, you can remove all of the return edge or leave some to fill the space if needed. Front to the forearms you remove ALL the return edge. For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below. Great thread here on return edges

Hello and welcome back, a build thread will definitely give you feedback on how your build is progressing as well as giving valuable tips and tricks, good luck

Hello what make is this armor, it looks very soft in the details Same helmet different thread See how soft the details are compared with screen used

There are still a few places that look to be on the gums A toothpick is a good tool to remove any excess paint

Just watch any paint on the gums: For Basic approval and above, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.

Reference Crow Props boots

Here's another RWA for comparison (approved at EI). 1 large tab and 4 1/2 small tabs on chest.

You may be better contacting the maker directly https://www.facebook.com/trooperamp Or try the blastfx FB user group https://www.facebook.com/groups/blastfxbuilders/

Hello and welcome aboard, a thread full of helpful information Good luck with the research

That will be them With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips For Level 2: 1. Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip). V-head or Philips screws are not permitted. Nice work on the spacing

Hello and welcome look forward to following your build, good luck

Great layout for internal strapping A good video series here for when you run out and get bored https://www.youtube.com/@RichieStormtrooper Info on snap setting

Hello and welcome, there are a few quality/detail issues with SDS (Shepperton Design Studios aka originalstormtrooper.com), this thread may help you, @Helotech put in a lot of rework on his SDS kit, most mentioned in his pre approval thread Also his build thread Another SDS pre approval Just takes a bit of work to get them to an approvable costume but I'm sure with garrison help you will do just fine. Good luck and any questions please let us know

Very nice, helmet may need some updating, ESB used different tube stripe and cheek traps decals References Here are some of the differences between the OT versions https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view Good luck with the build

Have you thought of reaching out to your local garrison/squad, someone may be able to print for you https://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php Although these are for the Hasbro blaster you may be able to use them for the Rubies blaster

It is amazing how much you can achieve once you get in the groove

Congratulations, looking much better. One other thing, drop boxes should align with the ends of the plastic belt, add a small amount of glue under the elastic can help keep them in the correct position For Level 3, Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

Some makes of armor the shoulders are just too small and it is hard to get them close to the chest. Moving the snaps further forward on the shoulder strap elastic can help pull them in on the front when you have moved your arms.

Looking good. For L3 you may want to bring your belt up a touch The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. You could also apply some heat and curve your belt so it's not sticking out on the sides, it may catch on your forearms when moving. Note using heat it is best to test on scraps, you can use either heat gun, torch, hair dryer or hot water bath, but make sure you practice, it doesn't take much heat for plastic to go out of shape.

@Deployment Officer Team should be able to answer that for you

You need to add a link to your legion membership profile, have a read of the first post in this thread for instructions

Looking forward to seeing the progress, you can find some helpful info in this thread Good luck

No brand, generic snaps and elastic, you can usally tell if it's an industrial elastic, thicker and tighter woven compared with other elastic. Soldering iron or glue around the post hole does help. I've had no issues with "too tough" connection, I dress myself so it may be easier for me to do it as I'm actually in the suit, ever tried to dress someone else? it's not that easy from the outside. Angle also makes a difference, snap can get quite loose the more angle there is. That was an example of boot connection to shin, I prefer elastic as it has some give. Some use velcro in other places on their builds but again doesn't have any give.

I purchase mine from Aliexpress, most purchase Line #24 snaps, with either industrial velcro or doubled over for extra strength. Some great info here, using a soldering iron (or heating something metal and sharp) can seal the hole and prevent pulling through. You can also add a drop of glue which also helps prevent pulling through

Looks like your stud is upside down, normally I use 2 snaps facing upwards on the shoulder elastic and 2 facing down on the shoulder strap elastic, if you also add the holes further to the front it will help pull in the shoulders after you move your arms. Doubling over the elastic from chest to back plate is also a good idea to make it tighter and less likely to pull outwards. When attaching the snap is pushed upwards which is easier to hold. This elastic is industrial which is tighter and tighter woven than regular elastic so less stretch The other issue I'd like some advice on is my thigh pieces. As I walk in my armor, the thigh pieces shift and become out of alignment with the shins. This becomes most prevalent with my left thigh, as eventually the piece shifts and the bottom clashes with the sniper knee as I walk. The bottom of the thigh and the sniper knee begin to audibly click as I walk, and eventually the thigh piece shifts to the point where my left leg locks as the top of the knee meets the thigh bottom. I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to place pieces of foam in the interior of the thigh pieces in order to restrict lateral movement. Any advice to any of these issues would be greatly appreciated! Your belt is sitting low in the image, can't quite see the tops of your thighs, raising the belt and thighs could help, also raising the AB section will give you more room at the tops of the thighs. Tighter strapping my help to keep your thighs up, doubling over can also help as it increases tension. Adding foam inside leg pieces can help keep them in alignment, I have a block of foam on both sides of my thighs as I have skinny legs. You could add a loop of elastic on your boots, attach snaps and secure them inside your shins, this will stop them moving around and also make them pull down to the boot after moving. Also adding a block of foam behind the front of the shin can keep it away from the thigh. A good idea is to add velcro to foam pieces so you can remove and wash if they get really sweaty, although I know a few troopers who just glued them directly with E6000 to the inside of the armor. A couple of builds for shin rotation, one has elastic at the back (I prefer front) Another with velcro