gmrhodes13

Nice work, the longer you can leave it to dry the better. I did find the Dremel sanding attachment was fine at low speeds but will burn and melt if too fast. I tried to use the finest sandpaper I could so as not to leave too deep scratches, wet and dry, use soapy water as it helps to stop the paper clogging. I went with 240 grit then 400, 600, 1200, and final ultrafine, after that tried compound polish by hand. Some ABS paste can have tiny air bubbles and you may need to fill but see how it goes. You can also end up with a different color too, had this happen with different abs paste and I had to eye match some paint and air brush the seam and feather it outwards, gave it another polish afterwards. I'm sure you will do fine, sounds like you have things well in hand

Great work, you may want to adjust your shoulder straps too, not sure what it looks like from the back but the angle seems off and they don't appear to be covering your shoulder elastic, also a lot of armor showing on the side.

Either is fine, I actually just cut a notch out in that front section so it helps sit central on the cover strip when it's drying. I found using some E6000 just behind the front of the plate and also on the ends, I did rough both areas with a little course sandpaper first to allow some more adhesion. You really need some pressure to hold those back corners, many don't like stay there while drying, also wrapping painters tape tightly around can help hold in place. I usually use 6 or more clamps as well.

I've only worn my HWT to a couple of events, standards for the pack changed plus I have back and neck problems so the extra weight is not helpful. Like Tony I used a charcoal dust which was easy to polish off. I think you'll find the public see a HWT as a clean Sandy and really don't notice it's a different costume. Most of the time event hosts want to see shinny whites but on the odd occasion they want to be dirty

Nice work, keep it up

Nice work trooper, another photo the DO's like to see is the inside fixing of the rivets on knee ammp plate. Good luck with approval

Angling the ears forward from the bottom will reduce the gap, have a play in different positions and see if the gap closes up, some kits just won't give the "ideal screen angle" due to how they were formed. I found ears to be the most diabolical part of trimming the whole kit. Some great threads on trimming ears, which may explain the process a little more. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41250-ear-trimming-made-easy/

Well you'd be the expert on that.

Congratulations and welcome to EI trooper. If I may a couple of other things you could improve on. You could also trim your smaller ab plate a little more You may also want to clean off some excess glue Also clean/trim the sides of your ab/kidney, can see the plates behind You could also reduce the size of angled corners of the belt as they are a little large, trimming the ends would achieve this, from the CRL: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt For your centurion photos make sure your ab/kidney tops meet For fixing the butt plate gap I came up with a V tab, a strip of ABS bent and glued on one inside. Personally I would also bring your brow trim up a little, the lower brow trim is seen more on the Hero version. Looking forward to seeing your Centurion application, good luck trooper

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks, good luck with EIB

Sith Jet Trooper appears confirmed

Just also notice you may have a couple of bubbles under the bottom of you decal, try to push the air out or even a needle a very impolite person may help

It is definitely accurate

Yes I'd loose both, 1 each side Toothpick works really well

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks

I'd take of the front tube stripes. You should be ok for basic approval but I would clean off the little paint which is on the gums CRL: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks

The first picture looks as if it is angled, they should be directly in the middle of the thigh, you also appear to have some more abs paste that needs sanding. Cover strips stop above the lower ridge on the thighs as well.

Congratulations trooper A couple of things you could tweak to really make you stand out, you have a few wrinkles in your grey decals. Grey area on your ears is very large, you could reduce and also straighten the lines on the ear bumps You could also straighten your brow trim, it's a little wonky. Appears you may have gone a little too far with your teeth trimming as well you can see some on the gum (really noticeable from the sides), perhaps add a little abs paste from behind to fill in those over trimmed area. Once again congratulations

Can't quite tell but the bell strapping should be a lot lower, just off the bottom ridge. Waiting for mail is so annoying

Which is weird as BBTS still has TFA helmets available, perhaps Anovos should buy some back and supply what people actually ordered. Just on BBTS the TLJ helmet sold out the other day, then it went to pre order and now it's back to in stock with a higher price tag of $349.00, anyone think they found out how much cheaper they were compared to Anovos "wonder why we are selling so many of these this week"

Appears some pre orders are being shipped from Anovos, another member on FB, pre order was 2016

Well they did deliver this one time

Pretty poor form Anovos

Although the description on BBTS says "Helmet adjustment system ensures a comfortable and secure fit, up to a US 8 hat size" which was the hard hat liner type, it appears they are lined as seen at GE, a member just posted these images on FB of his BBTS helmet