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gmrhodes13

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Everything posted by gmrhodes13

  1. gmrhodes13
    There had been no screen references given of the scaled up version at that the time to compare with size variance to standard blaster.
  2. gmrhodes13
    Hello and welcome to the forum, good luck with research
  3. gmrhodes13
    Screen reference: When in doubt check the gallery section
  4. gmrhodes13
    Hello and welcome aboard, you'll find quite a few builds from those of similar size, good luck
  5. gmrhodes13
    Great start, looking forward to seeing the progress
  6. gmrhodes13
    I use a whole punch in some decal sheet and use those as a templates. Sometimes it can be the brush you use with painting. A thread that may be of use:
  7. gmrhodes13
    I'm sure there is some work going on in the background, I'll tag our DO's now and hopefully they will chime in @justjoseph63 @shashachu
  8. gmrhodes13
    References is what it takes, ANH 1977 and the CRL still gets updates
  9. gmrhodes13
    You could suggest any changes to the DL @Sly11, CRL's don't always contain every correct detail, sometimes new references or details come to light, CRL's are ever evolving
  10. gmrhodes13
    For reference numbers of 501st approved TK versions.
  11. gmrhodes13
    Check out this data sheet https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view
  12. gmrhodes13
    You can use a hot water bath, some have had success with that. For adding tabs behind it could be as simple as adding some rectangles of scrap ABS or plastic sign, add two on one side and two on the other side but stagger those then they will interlock.
  13. gmrhodes13
  14. gmrhodes13
    A little heat to curve them or some even use tabs behind which hold the sides in.
  15. gmrhodes13
    I had some black stains on my FOTK, made soft pouches to keep the paint from being chipped scratched but used black material, had it handy, didn't think the die would run, anyway I used automotive cutting compound which did get the stains out, then went over with a final glaze polish to bring back the shine.
  16. gmrhodes13
    Just be careful leaving any paint on, it can bleed into the plastic and abs paste
  17. gmrhodes13
    Must be stuck at the sorting centre
  18. gmrhodes13
    Hello and welcome aboard, good luck with the build
  19. gmrhodes13
    I've added tape behind gaps before which stops the paste leaking through. I would however once you have applied to the front and it has dried to add more to the back for extra strength.
  20. gmrhodes13
    Hi and welcome aboard, research is definitely the key to this hobby. I would suggest having a look through some of the build threads, you can pick up a lot of info in those, quality, wait time and so on. Even have a look in the TFA TLJ Stormtrooper threads as the base of the costume would be the same.
  21. gmrhodes13
    Hello and welcome aboard, I added a couple of How To threads onto your build thread, may help you get some images going
  22. gmrhodes13
    Nice work, preparation is the key to getting a nice finish. Some thread on adding pics
  23. gmrhodes13
    Nice work, in regards to shims if I'm understanding right, any shims should not be seen ie: fill any gaps with ABS paste, sand and polish.
  24. gmrhodes13
    Nice work, painters tape can help pull pieces into shape and hold them while the glue is drying
  25. gmrhodes13
    Purchasing in pieces gives you opportunity to fit to our size, although ready to wear may fit it could use adjustments. Also price is something to consider. If you have a look through some of the build threads for RS you will see some who have purchased as a kit and others fully made
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