SeanTX

So I started work on the bucket.

Ah. Sorry I missed that. I've just had horrible luck with filler throughout my hobbyist career. Squadron filler allways flaked and green stuff always pulled out when sanding. What do you do to propperly prep the surface? Just the ussual washing of parts?

What kind of filler are you using?

Where did you find your counter?

Thanks. Yes I have the DVH 2.0 kit and the receiver is legit. But I wanted a steel one so I could solder my sterling pieces to it if I get that far. I look forward to the Phoenix Props kit replacing more of the DVH molds.

Did you cut the whole charging handle slot with a hack saw?

I found better gloves at Home Depot. And got my BCG undersuit from Academy. I got my torso and kidney pieces sized but not trimmed. But is there a prefered place the seam should be on your body? I assumed from pictures you want it right about the center and as vertical as you can make it. And is there a prefered length that the cup needs to extend under ones crotch?

Looking good. Eagerly awaiting Ukswrath's seal of approval.

Evenly on both sides like two inches. Or even with the corner of the shin?

I use a lot of peelable shims at work where we trash most of the material i think I'll try cutting some replacements from the scraps.

Interesting. Mine came with three shims on each side. A small copper sandwhiched between a larger aluminum about twice as thick as aluminum foil.

I got my thigh ammo belt bent. And i understand the curve on the bottom. But which rivet holds it in place? And is it cool to trim a lot more off one side? And I found these gloves at walmart. I don't seem to recall the grippy pad being on the finger nail too in reference photos.

I used Simple green to clean mine. it works pretty well letting it soak over night and is enviormentally friendlier than most. The butt pad of your stock looks nasty. I was able to pop the two pins on mine with a punch and dissassemble it all the way for creaning.

I've been dissassembling and cleaning my demilled sterling pieces. And when I removed my stock from the ... pivot point, it had a series of thin aluminum shims to keep the stock from seizing. Has anyone refabricated these for their builds? I don't see them when you re assembled yours.

Would a propane torch be enough to melt the brazing?

Sweet lemonade, Thanks starsaber!

Dude that is legit. If you cast that I have a whole second market for you. I'm building a WW1 replica biplane and someday I'll be building two lewis' for it. There are a lot of guys that buy these absoutly terrible ABS lewis guns that would love a better model.

So its about time I finally posted a thread. I started work on my suit and my brothers back in Novemeber. But other projects (Airplane, christmas presents, 40k) pop up and keep me at a slow pace. So we worked for 2 days and got the apendages done. Save the sniper plate, ammo boxes, strapings. ] The shins are glued just not pictured. This week I made the thermal detonators. I found some slotted pan head screws that seemed the right size when I scaled the reference photo on my phone. At ACE hardware if anyone wanted to find some. I couldn't find the 1" aluminum strips from homedepot everyone was talking about. But I did find a 4" x 10" x 1/16" sheet at the hobby store. And was able to cut two sets of strips on the band saw from two plates. I did goof and got the hole measurements from an old video and not from the reference photo. If I could do it again I would move the first hole a lot closer to the end but. from my readings this meets evey published standard. Today I though I would cut out the chest detals but I was encountering some diffeneces from listed dimensions to kit dimensions. The BillHAg diagram (which are awesome by the way and I wish I could find where they are all organized together) shows the button plates to be 65mm x 94mm and 75mm x 20 mm. That was to big for my kit so I cut them down to 60 x 89mm and 70 x 20mm, Do the look like I cut off to much material? That was the only standard I could find.

If you are still looking for flat head pan head screws I think I found some the right size at ACE hardware. Specifically the Arlington location on park row. Someday I'll post a build thread and show pictures.

Hmmm every thread or How to by you has only broken images for me. At home and at work. Oh well.

Any chance pandatrooper's images can be recovered?

What size are the split rivets?

Ah that makes much more sense.

So I've read about as many get started threads as I can stand trying to find my answers so I'm just going to break down and start my own. I bought the AM2.0 but I don't have my heart set on ANH or ESB just yet. I have read that currently the 2.0 is not approved for centurion on some parts but I'm having trouble understanding why. And I'm not ready to replace everything yet, I just want to build as much of it right the first time around. And get the best suit I can out of what I bought. So I'll just list my questions. 1. http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt For level three certification (if applicable): *AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. (and back) What is not accurate about it? What dimension is off and where is the community database that compiles all of these dimensions. 2. Same reference. ​On the Shin armor the difference between 501st approval and centurion. What is the difference between these two standards *The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. *Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Is there not supposed to be a cover strip on the outside like the image on the standards page? 3. Same reference Helmet Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. That is really vague. How do I know mine are incorrect? 4. When it comes to the pros and cons of wearing the suit which works better ANH stunt or ESB? From my readings the real differences at the centurion level are based off the differences in quality from the real films. ANH being more rushed; hand painted tube stripes, White elastic holding the shoulder straps, Bicep strap on shoulder bells. Where ESB seems to be just not made like that. Or not as hasty in my opinion. 5. My brother whom I also bought a kit for is a monster 6'7". If we have to shim and stretch pieces, what is the best way to do that and keep key dimensions, without voiding any chance of EIB/centurion for him? Thanks for your help.