Jump to content

Sparrow

Member
  • Posts

    317
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sparrow

  1. And so the fun begins. The first thing I should mention is my wife is small, so everything will require a little shrinking J> First thing I started on was the gloves, which I am using a pair of Gormex flight gloves. I got the smallest pair I could find. It is loose on the wrist, so I will get her to do a little sewing and take it in making it a little snugger. Trimmed the hand plates, sanded them down. I am not using any electrical tools for this build, so all the sanding and trimming is being done by hand, and a good metal ruler. I glued some Velcro onto the glove as well as the back side of the hand plates. To ensure the Velcro will not be coming off the gloves, I added some E6000 and put them in a grip for 20 minutes. This Velcro will not be coming off. Then moved onto the shoulder bells, and trimmed and sanded them down. I may need to do some additional trimming when it comes to sizing it with the rest of the armor. Next moved on to the forearms and gave them a rough trimming as I will need to size these on my wife. Taped them up so I could size them up on my wife Length wise they are perfect but they are too wide so need to cut some off, so score it and cut it. Then time to trim down the edges and smooth everything out. One thing that is different with these arms is unlike a TK, there are no outside coverstrips, they are glued on the inside to help support each half for a smooth polished look on the outside. The outside of the forearms do overlap to help accommodate this look.
  2. Time for another project. My wife is currently Greedo (that is her and I pictured) but finds it a challenge breathing in a fully enclosed latex mask. I can’t say I blame her. So she has requested something she can easily breathe in and looks bad and tough in. Sounds like a woman in need of some armor and a big gun. So I pulled the trigger last week and ordered her the Jes Gistang Legacy Stormtrooper from Kevin. As it has been a few years since I built my armor, I am really looking forward to this, especially the more unique aspects of this armor. Today is big box day!! My first impression of this armor is that it is definitely not built for guys. It is much smaller than a typical TK.
  3. I'm 6'2 so I find one helps keep kids from looking up inside the helmet. It keeps everything black, hidden and helps maintain The illusion.
  4. I use 4 AAA batteries for each of my fan, and it runs very quite in comparison to a noisier 9volt. AAA is the way to go
  5. If you look through the builds, you will find that a lot of folks place them in the same place I did, which is inbetween the ears and mouth, down near the hovis.  The main reason for this is that it seems to be the best position for air movement. It is pulling in fresh air from below and blowing it across the lenses (to prevent fogging) and keeps you nice and cool. you want good air circulation.  I have the two fans in there and I sweat very little in that helmet. I cannot imagine not having fans and being in a summer or indoor troop! Check out my helmet. I have a fully enclosed helmet with two fans, hovi speakers and Icom http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20105  Some are concerned about using fans and having the mic pick up the fan noise. If your fans are to noisy, that can happen. Most fans are using a 9volt battery. My setup is using 4 AAA. The difference is that it does not generate as much power, so they run much quiter, yet still blow a nice breeze.  The best thing to do is play around with placement and find what works best for you.
  6. If you are using the pico amp, due to its small size it probably isn't generating enough juice for the Icom. That's to bad...
  7. The pics pretty well lay it out Morton. It is an easy add on your your existing setup. Your microphone goes into the mic in on the Icom, then the line out of the Icom goes into the mic in on your pico amp. The Icom is receiving power from your amp. I found the best placement for the Icom to be the the lower back of the helmet.
  8. As of today, my helmet is COMPLETELY self contained. All the electronics are inside the helmet. I formerly had an Akers with the wireless setup and an I-com. However the wireless was working on the same frequency as a fellow trooper, so his voice was coming through my chest! Needless to say I needed to make a change. So I was able to find a fellow trooper selling a slightly used “TKVox NanoAmp Comm System with Hovi Tipsâ€, purchased from-------------- It is amazing to hear audio and static burst coming directly from the helmet! I was totally wowed! I can hardly wait to use this on my next troop!
  9. From one hero to another, looks good! The only thing I can see missing is the black trim around the ear bumps. Plus there should be a pic showing your bubble eyes, as it is not clear they are there
  10. Thanks guys! I had it done some time ago, just took a while to getting it done. It feels great to look great!
  11. Name = Steve Goldsack Garrison = OuterRim Squad, Badlands Garrison Forum name = Sparrow Stormtrooper, A New Hope, (Hero) Height = 6' 2" Weight = 180 pounds Armour = SDS - heavily modified/trimmed/reshaped Helmet = SDS - upgraded bubble eyes and hero ears from John Danter TK8456 Hero Upgrade Kit Blaster = SDS - added D ring Boots = TK Boots Hand Plates = SDS Outer Gloves = Nomex Flight Gloves Thermal Detonator = Jesse TK4702 Thermal Detonator Canvas Belt = TKittell TKittell White Canvas Belts Electronics= Aker 12 watt amp / I-Com / Memorex wireless mic from TK6294 Akers/ICom/Wireles Neck Seal= Veedox Veedox ANH Hero Neckseal (Neck Seal from “Lady Sew for Us†is pictured) Holster= Darman TK9356 Darman ANH TK Holsters Build Thread: ANH TK Build Hero in Uniform Hero out of Uniform I couldn't resist! Required Costume Components FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence: Expert Infantryman and Centurion. Expert Infantryman is listed in black. Centurion requirements are in red. Helmet •Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. •Lenses must be green bubble or smoke bubble only. •Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). •Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. •Ears shall have two screws per side, one above the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. •Ear bars should have three bumps only, not four. •Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). •Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Shoulder Straps •These shall be glued in front. •These shall free float in back. •The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Forearms •No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Hand Plates •Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Gloves •Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest •Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. Back •Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Abdomen Plate •Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. •Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line. •Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. •A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present. •A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional. Kidney Plate •A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate. •Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. Butt Plate •Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional. Belt •Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl are not acceptable. •There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. •The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. •Drop boxes are closed in the back. Thermal Detonator •The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1"(25mm) wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. Thighs •The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets. •The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Lower Legs •Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave. Boots •Boots shall be lightly scuffed. Holster •Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt. •The holster shall be affixed with four fasteners (two at the top and two at the bottom of the belt) instead of none or two. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws. BlasTech E-11 •Folding stock (does not need to function). •A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. •D-ring mounted on the rear. •Correct style scope. •Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Additional Options Imperial Communication System (I-Comm) Split Cod Profile shots Action shots
  12. As sci fire doesn't ship to Canada, looks like DoopyDoos is the way for me to go. I do like how it can seperate into two pieces for transport, but it looks way to clean. Needs some weathering!
×
×
  • Create New...