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Everything posted by Sparrow

  1. This is why I took the time to post my build, to encourage others in their build. HaVE FUN!
  2. Part of the reason I post the details of the build it to inspire more builds, so very glad to hear you taking up the knife People love my wifes armor. She gets more attention as she is "unique". Plus with the "Rogue One" trailer, people are seeing more variety to the types of Stormtroopers and are more accepting now than say perhaps a few years ago.. She keeps getting asked if she is from the new movie. Our response is wait and see!
  3. Time for some comfort mods. Cut of a finger width off the forearm as it was a touch long, and pinching her. Then tore the helmet apart and did something I wish I had done with mine, paint the inside black This time put in a much cleaner installation of the frown and eyes. Just glued it all in. I also installed a wireless sound system. Not only should my wife look like a female Stormtrooper, but she should sound like one. All DONE! Time to get her trooping!
  4. Done! Here are my submission pics. After this fitting there are a few comfort tweeks to make but nothing major
  5. Thanks the Bowcaster was a long time coming. It is made out of polyvinyl, part resin, aluminum and wood. The 2 scopes are real. It is full size to go along with my full size Chewie costume.<br><br> The tongue and groove is the one improvement I made over my own TK. It really keeps the armour nice and snug.
  6. While I wait for the paint on the helmet to dry, I finished up on my other project, Chewies Bowcaster. Assembled it, painted it, created a strapping system for the shoulder strap, made a new scope tip (used a cap from glasses cleaner and the red tip of a can of WD40) and added some mild weathering. I love this thing!! I suspect my wife will be taking me prisoner so as to steal my gun!
  7. Made a template and cut out the eyes Added some weathering to the armor
  8. Tons of progress to update on. More work on the arm. As you can see below when she bends her arms, you can see behind the armor. So adding a little bulk in there gives the armor a thicker appearance as opposed to glued pieces of plastic. I replaced the white soft Velcro in put in previous with plastic, then used wood filler to fill in the seams to give it a more polished look. Sanded it down a bit to smooth it out and then went over it with a coat of white glue to seal it up. The glue dries clear. Also put in some black Velcro just so the inner part of the armor will disappear into the blackness of the black arm And then back to the helmet. Cut out the teeth, trimmed the ears and put it all together. The look I am going for with this build a realistic TK. So part of what I do with the build is I fill in the seams. Just like the arm, I filled in the gaps on the ear with wood filler, then sealed it up with white glue. The look thus far…
  9. Painted the canister for the back, then mounted and assembled it to sit just above the belt. I put an anchor on the inside of the back so it is permanently screwed into the back armor. Worked on the strapping for the upper armor. Giving it the same tongue and groove as the abs. Did some work on the section of the forearm that sticks out past the elbow. As one can see in behind it, I wanted it to look a little better than just the backside of plastic armor glued together. So I glued some scrap in behind to add some thickness to it, then below that added a soft strip of Velcro to add some comfort as my wife’s elbow rubs against. Not sure how I feel about the soft Velcro, I might just replace it with more plastic to extend the backside look. Also added some insulation foam on the inside of the elbow to keep the armor from biting my wife. This will also help center the armor on the arm as well. Did some work on the helmet, trimming the head and cutting out the eyes
  10. Attaching clips to the rear of the large belt boxes using rivets. Technically one can build these boxes so they open, but I found them flimsy so I am just going to build them to be permanently closed. It is also much easier to build this way. Either way they are approved. Glued the back on to the box For the lids, there is really nowhere to glue it onto the box as the design had a hinge in mind. So I cut out some abs and built it up so it will sit flush on the box. 5 pieces on the front and 4 on the top. This also will give the boxes a bit more of a solid feel. I decide to glue on a cover for the back of the box as the back can be seen while on the belt. This helps create the illusion of a functional box Glued the shoulder straps onto the chest plate I designed the chest and back plate to have a tongue and grove lock, which will keep the two pieces together nicely. A white elastic strap will keep the two pieces snug.
  11. Put the belt on the armor with the anchors for the belt boxes and looks good Time to start the large belt boxes
  12. Cut off 3 tabs from the shoulder strap and glued snaps onto the knee caps Time to attach the knees to the calves. Measure up where I want to cut, then slice and dice then mount the knees. Moving onto the belt got to do a bunch of cutting and trimming Measured out and taped the boxes on the belt, 6 on the front, 5 on the back, leaving room for the two larger ammo boxes.
  13. Started work on the belt. Completely different than a TK. The belt is plastic as opposed to fabric then you attach mounts for the boxes to go onto. So I glued the left side together then velcroed it to the body so only the right side opens, just like the body. I'm closing it with a bit of velcro. I'm thinking to just leave it on the body permanently.
  14. First fitting for the upper body. The shoulder bells are too wide, rubbing against the chest and especially the back plate, so I’ll trim off about 1 cm on the side. The biceps are sitting to low, so will raise the snap in the shoulder bell up an inch. The shoulder straps are to long, so I will need to trip those as well. In regards to the calf, I put a 1 inch cover strip on the back, but due to me taking off so much leg, it wasn’t sitting right. So I am going to make the cover strip a little wider, which will allow for a better overlap on the back of the calf.
  15. Starting to come together now, adding straps to the legs and suspenders. The tongue in grove lock works great. Also installed some crisscross snaps to keep everything nice and snug. Adding snaps and straps to the shoulder bells As I needed to trim a lot off of the back of the calves I needed to add on some shims
  16. Time to make some snaps and start gluing them in place Initially I was going to make my own suspenders, but turns out I had a pair. Only one snap needed on the back so Ill replace to two with one. One the right side I am going to make a tongue and groove lock to join the ab and kidney plates together, so as to get a nice flush look and minimize the seams. In that same vein, I have decided to glue the left side together, just like I did with my TK. Again it helps attain a nice flush look and hide the seams. I used some of the extra that I cut off from the kidney plate and am using it as a butt joint to hold the two pieces together.
  17. Time for a rough test fit with the legs. I love the look with the knee cap. As you can see, lots of extra on the leg to cut off. This is the joint on the side of the calf. Due to cutting so much material, the ends no longer match. So I cut the corner and pulled it up, gluing it in place, creating a smother looking edge. The cuts lines I will fill in with filler later to eliminate the lines. Not to concerned as it will be covered by the knee cap anyway. Had more time so time to work on the heart of the costume, the body. Cut it out and cleaned it up.
  18. So time for the legs. Cut out and trimmed all the pieces. Sized the abs on my wife and as you can see, there is a lot of extra. Cut off the extra and used spare pieces for the but joint then let it all dry. Also got my wifes boots today.
  19. Just email him or PM him here on FISD. He'll send you all the info. I just got one from him a few weeks ago and got it in a week.
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