The generally accepted way is to have it end at the ridge though, regardless of the inconsistencies in ANH. I mean if you really wanted to go uber accurate, get out the duct tape in strategic locations and let the calves spread wide and loose when your walking.
Overall, I think most of us, barring the ones going for absolute screen accuracy, go for as accurate as we can but still staying practical for the rigors of trooping. The original suits weren't designed to be worn for extended periods, just the immediate shot. We run ours through the paces and need durability along with the accuracy we try to achieve. Make it look nice, as accurate as possible to whatever movie your ideal trooper is and keep it useful and durable.
Good luck!