Marv

I have now addressed my alignment issue. The scope back foot now sits directly over the stocks hinge. This shows the alignment (and I think this will please Vern) on my WIDER rail with a 1943 M40 scope. More images of the wider scope, front and from above: What I would say is that this took quite a lot of time to get looking nice, applying a 90 bend filing to sit inside the sight and to fit the vent hole especially with the rudimentary tools at my disposal simply makes me think they either didn't do this or they mass produced the rail somehow? Here are a couple of pictures of similar smaller rail configuration, much quicker and easier to put together.

I have come up with a new idea for the Hengstler bracket, I'm hoping this will work out OK. It is not yet finished, it could still go horribly wrong but here goes! The Bracket is cut a little like a key, the narrower end (top of picture) I will bend to 90 degrees. The Idea is that like a key this will be inserted into the counter itself and turned to lock in to position. The next shot shows kind of what it will look from the inside, as its not yet bent into shape I have had to remove the innards for this illustration. I'm hoping that when this is bent correctly this will give a slight elevation to bring the desired hight against the scope and the rail and address the issue Vern kindly pointed out earlier. The strip holding to the scope rail I have made 10mm wide so it will comfortably sit under the smaller rail and the wider rail I've still got to return to following the discovery I had positioned the scope incorrectly on my first attempt. The next shot shows how this will be concealed(hopefully) when its all put together. I'm hoping that it will all lock nicely when all I can assume is a motor is put back in place.

I like it just hope my own build turns out to be as good as this.

SDS blaster doesn't have the D clip at the rear either.

In terms of accuracy Vern its looking like my sight position is also wrong. I've been looking more and more at the pictures that yourself and the other members have posted and I have overlooked one glaring point, and that it that the Scope in every shot appears to be positioned so that the line of the back foot is above the hinge of the stock. I had positioned my M19 so that the bolt was in line with the front barrel of the scope as it appears on the picture of Han Solo. What I had not considered is the fact that due to this Sterling being a new deactivation the bolt is not in its furthest most position as this was a weld point. Bringing this forward will more than likely correct a couple of alignment issues in one go. Also looking at my bracket for the counter I have also struck a new realisation, and that is that if I reverse the S bend this should also have the desired effect of raising the counter to a height more in line with your own observations. Guess what I'm going to be doing tomorrow evening

After a weekends break I have made very little progress with my build other than to tidy a few issues: I have been forced to create a new bracket for the counter after realisation, an as I originally thought, I had not given enough clearance for the scope beyond the stock. The new one now has a little extra length and actually fits better to the counter itself. The one to the left is the new bracket. I have yet to drill the hole to secure it to the rail. I've now also drilled the small rail and another thicker rail, but have not completed the latter. The next image shows how the Counter and an M40 will look attached to the Sterling. Once the hole in the counter bracket is drilled you will not see the back foot. Clearance... And from above... The thin rail is growing on me, here I think it better shows the width to the front lens. I think the next steps will now slow my progress. As I'm waiting on a new run from Russ for some cylinders, and have yet to order my T-track. I have found some which I can get in quite a large quantity, the dealer sent me an outline of the profile, seen below which I think is very close to what has been used on my SDS e-11. However, if anyone knows where I can find a good quality plastic screen accurate track at a reasonable price then I am all ears.

I have now moved the scope forward, I still have yet to drill my holes, but I hope you agree this now looks a little closer to the sweet spot. You also get a similar effect on the underside from this point too: Did this hit the spot?

Today I am grinning from ear to ear. I have really got to say a massive, massive thank you to Jesse for this.... And a comparison poo against the M38 And as it will be mounted on the thinner rail...

Also big shame it will be a limited number. Hope they produce a larger release, cheaper copy of this.

Thanks Jesse Is everyone else having this problem?

I'm still unsure about the position of the counter myself, though I don't think it matter too much when you consider the picture Vern posted earlier with the troopers behind the princess. Both counters appear to be at different heights etc. On this image the scope should be a little more to the left, I tightened the screws to the edge of the rail and bracket as I've not yet drilled any holes This next picture shows how narrow my first rail is.

Today the magazine arrived... I'm such a cheat. Another view:

Have no idea if this is an MR mold or not, but what I would say is that if you had something this good, you would really sort out your spelling, grammar and punctuation, at the very least read what you've written first. I simply wouldn't trust the seller on that basis alone! FOR THE LAST YEAR WE HAVE BEEN A PREMIER SOURCE OF RARE MASTER REPLICAS FROM RARE LE'S-SE'S, GOLD FX SABERS /GOLD LE'S AND ONE OF A KIND ITEMS WE NOW HAVE A VERY SMALL SELECTION OF MASTER REPLICA PROTOTYPES TO SELL THE ULTIMATE RARE ITEM AS THESE ARE IN VERY SMALL NUMBERS ANDS RELY COME UP FOR SALE I rest my case.

Have made a little progress on the smaller rail today, more so out of a need to be able to compare the result with the image previously posted by Jesse of Han with the E-11. So here is the smaller rail (I've not yet drilled holes for the scopes or tapped the hole to attach to the sight), though very straight forward 1 bend, 1 hole. At the rear... And at in the vent hole Now the money shot

Have made the decision not to cut up my 34 rnd magazine, so being lazy have today placed an order for one of these which I should get in the next couple of days: This is the 10 rnd Sterling mk7 Para pistol magazine. Job done

Why, thank you Julie.

My scope rail bracket idea for the counter. Considering I only have a Black&Decker workbench and not very many tools (I do have a hammer, Hacksaw, Engineers rule and File) I set about seeing how this would work. I cheated a little, and brought a Joist Harness this appeared to be a good thickness for the clamp on the counter and would require a little less bending: The marking are what I would use the rest, well thats wastage. This is the result of all my sawing and filing (the bracket) And this is how it all fits together: The metal is still a little narrow so may either need to reconsider, or tamper with the clamp so the hold is stronger. It will drop a little lower when on the rail but only by about 2mm. When I put this together I only considered the diameter of the barrel and did not consider the folding stock armature. I may have to re do this. I won't get a proper idea of how this will look until I manage to fix the scope rail. Now I need to buy a tap and die set...

Actually after seeing this I went out and brought some 10mm rolled steel: A comparison of the rail against the scope (seen against a 1943 M40) The same rail fits well into the sight... and clearly into the vent hole, no cuts or filing required. The one problem with such narrow rail becomes very clear with this next image, drilling will have to be pretty accurate: Whereas with a 16mm steel its clear there will be some need for work: Have decided to tap the hole in the sight so a simple grub screw can hold it all in place (need to get hold of tools first though).

Hay Vern I'd not considered what you said about having two rails, I'd thought about housings for the Hengstler and How I could interchange more than one, but not the rail. I like your suggestion. Have sent you a PM to.

Dennis this is a very interesting observation. On the M38/M40 this is approximately the same diameter as the vent hole and the distance between the rear sight walls, I'm becoming more convinced that this actually pretty narrow. It would mean clearance either side of the scope attachment would only be about 2.5mm either side (where the holes are drilled)?

http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4023435

There are loads of tips how to modify these on the forum. Couldn't tell you if the price was any good for what you'd pay in the US but you can pick these up for new in the UK for about £20 at places like Toy's R Us so I think that would be about $35 there?

Its a Hasbro

I've got some 16mm steel plate which is the same width of the outside of the sight, but the measurements I took of the sterling and viewing the image of the M19 variant make me think that the bar would have only been 10mm in width. That way it could pass straight into the sighting and into the first vent hole. It would mean pretty little fuss to knock together, there would have been no need to reshape (cut or file) the bar, simply bend and drill. Back to Wickes tomorrow then!

This was the image I had been referring to that Jesse's posted can be found on this topic the rail appears to be the width of the inside of sight?