Marv

Sorry Adrian, but this was not directed to you in person it was simply meant to be my take on the issue as a whole. I fully appreciate your position in not being able to do otherwise.

I love the Hasbro as a nostalgic Toy, I think the way the the stock works (original 1970's style) is great too. However I think if you go to the trouble of putting a suit together, no mater how you dress up the Hasbro its never going to look that brill so I think you should kinda stride to improve your blaster, and even if you don't make one the, something like the SDS version looks pretty sweet.

Whoa thanks for the measurements Vern, thats just what I needed. As to your question Rob I think I'll be looking to use hard plastic rather than rubber, simply because I think it looks nicer. Even though metal may not have been used I love what Michael has done. I think if had the skills and knew where you got that from I'd be tempted, the more metal on the blaster the more realistic it would be in an idealized state I think.----------- This is pretty much an idea of the profile of the stuff I'll be using.

What would be a good average length be then?

What is considered the correct length for use on the E-11, for each of the 6 runs?

The M38 (brass with mount removed) -----------

The M47A2 and M38 (top) are shown with their mounts these are simply unscrewed (if you note the two scopes are mounted in opposite directions). The M38 at the bottom could still be attached to a rail, but with a little metal working could be repaired fully.

And who said size doesn't matter? Another alternative, two identical 400's with differing sized Eagles.

Now that I've sussed how to link to images thought I'd post my little collection from Top to bottom M47-A2, M40, and my two M38s ----------

No complaints from me !

Gotta say I like what you've done here. I had an MR but parted company with it as it never looked right to me. Didn't consider doing what you've done - guess too scared to mess it up.

Michael, are those both original M38s?

I have a bit of a quandrie. I'm looking to build an E-11 using screen acurate parts. The issue I have is this: On the varient seen here: it uses an M38 but with the embosses no 7 on the side.The M38 has embossed no, but my M40 has no 7. My question is how relevant to the scope selection is the type of scope, i.e. M38 or M40 and the relevance of the numbering on the side? Its not a bad position to be in but am looking to guage opinion.

Think its got to be because of the poor clips these things had holding the stock up. I let my kids play with my old blaster till they snapped these off. Ended up taking it off them and replacing it with a new Hasbro Fett Blaster, they can do what they like with that. That said I ended up gluing them back on and putting a block between the two clips and it shaws them up somewhat.

I've got an original Hengstler with metal connection box and have been thinking on this a little over this last day or so in readiness for my own build. And think I may have a relatively simple solution to this without the need for drilling etc. On the metal connection box there are two square holes cut out of the side one showing the eagle the other simply shows the inners of the Hengstler and its this which I think is key. My solution would probably buck a trend, but here goes. If you consider the 4th photo above posted by 'Vern: TK Bondservnt 2392' you'll note that the bracket is set so it hangs from the rail. Why not simply invert this so it goes upward, thus hanging the hengsler from the inner square like a hook, I reason that a really snug fit would probably hold it in place pretty well, and could be enhanced with being slightly wider with a groove cut in each side. By inserting the hanger into the hengslter at an angle and turning it to lock into place it would stop it sliding etc? Has anyone considered this or tried it?

Thanks for the intel Sam it will certainly make life a lot easier when I start my own project in the not so distant future.

Thank you for this, I had wondered if the t-track was able to sustain itself. I guess its like a coiled spring, I quite like the look of them slightly lifted from the barrel (as I have it is on my SDS blaster). I think you get to see more detail that way. Would you mind if possible posting a picture of what you describe about the attachemnt round the sight. Do you know of any good sources to obtain an m19/m32 sight other than eBay? I have been looking but to no avail (although admittedly not for long). Curiously you may be able to answer a question to something that was nagging me, and that is about the feet on the m19/32 and m38/40 scopes. Are they set at the same length from one another? See if not I was thinking that the best way forward for my scope rail would be to have it so that scopes could be interchangeable, if I were able to come by one later.

I looking at the possibility of making one if these I've got a couple of scopes m40 and m38 hengstler counters. But can't fathom if I add a rail to real sterling how is it attached. I'd like it to sit in the first hole and extend to rear sight. Also similar concern with connection of t-track. How have you done this?