Marv

Nice

Just a thought on this bit, as I've no idea how you went about this in the first place. However, If what you're using is something that sets, you might be able to find something with a nice knurl on it (the diamond shapes) on the side of something thats generally used for tightening something, and possibly rolling it over the surface to create the same effect, (if that makes sense). Anyhow complements on a very good looking build.

Actually I have another question and that is about the top where there appears to be a cut out circular section. From the MSE pictures above it looks like these are where the valve tube holders would have been does anyone have any idea as to what diameter these would have been (are they standard for all valve tubes or did they differ)?

Hi Vern, been reading this with a lot of interest, the axle caps? I seem to only be able to see the top hat variety, was this what you worked with and if so how do you go about trimming the rim, is it pretty easy to do?

That is simply insane, I have to admit I'm not sure what I've let my self into here. I really don't possess those skills. I gotta say a big thanks for the response guys, I've now got plenty to read and mull over.

I have just managed to get my hands on a nice original 3 cell Graflex flash unit as I'm entertaining the idea of making a ANH Skywalker saber. Has any other member done this, could they recommend any good sites that detail the build process?

I'm not a member of the 501st. I just love prop building side (though admittedly one day I'd like to get a nice set of ANH armor). If I couldn't be party to this site due to not having any affiliation to the 501st I'd never have started on my e-11.

It's now selling at 15% discount. Better hurry while stocks last!

Who made the template in the first place? Would surly need it to be them to take up with eBay?

Cost seems high to me. Guessing someone brought it though as the listing has ended.

Nice.

I'm a fan of the original look, not into the clone mods that seem to be filtering into the traditional stuff. Same with all the ESB and ROTJ mods on the blasters etc too.

Hi Vern, how do you go about heating up the track does the rope not mark the track when it hot?

The wires pictured above are on my SDS blaster. However, I have just brought a Nokia phone charger for the ridiculous sum of 25 whole pence at WHSmiths (retailers in the UK), the wire on that is coiled I was simply going to use that if it fits. The SDS wire is pretty rigid stuff no idea really at what it is though. I'm just waiting on some cylinders from Russ but I don't think his latest run is going to start any time soon, so I may consider making my own, that is unless I can get a set from somewhere else? Little gutted its 1am in the morning and someone has just outbid me by $2.50 on an M47 scope, gutting ...oh well back to bed.

Thanks for this Mathias. In the end I actually stumbled upon another method (I think I read it here on one of the posts here somewhere - It was in the back of my head) using boiling water. Basically dipping the ends into the water and standing for about half a minute appears to have given the plastic enough elasticity to be reshaped. What I have also found is that if I make a serious enough error, leaving it submerged in the water also results in the plastic straightening itself again. I haven't made much progress with it but here are a couple of pictures of what I have done so far. I'm relatively happy, as you can see some of my bends are not quite as snug as I would Ideally like. And in comparison to my SDS blaster... Mathias if you want some of this stuff PM me I do have more of this, and can probably get more too.

Has anyone got any really good tips on how to bend the plastic. I've tried with a lighter but found that the flame simply burns the plastic material damaging it so that aesthetically it looks bad. I had a go using a bar heater which simply delivered to much heat and not pin point enough so when I bent the track it deformed at the base a little. If anyone can answer this it would be really great?

I've now trimmed a little, here is the only comparison I can offer on this track, set aside my MR Boba Fett.

My Blaster build has been on hold for a wee while now, having run into problems with my VW camper (my engine is currently in pieces) this had to give. This caused me some consternation as I was not able to commit to purchasing some nice authentic T-track from Gino, and Saber-freak with a cheaper alternative also informed me that his supplies were no more... It was then without really focusing on the project I stumbled on this, an 8m strip of pure black plastic which I have decided to use Underside on the barrel Black plastic track dimensions: track (mm): 8 H x 11 W x 2000 L I can now get this moving once again

It looks and works pretty well using my HTC phone.

Using Opera, but would say I really don't like the skin. Thought I had gone to the wrong site when I first saw it. Think it needs a trooper banner or something - Definitely Preferred the old look.

If there was anyone out there interested in the origins of the M38 scope, I found this poster recently which shows where it was originally found on the Sherman tank (note item 31)

I've now put these pieces together for the first time, I'm really pleased with it, everything appears to align nicely. Oh and it holds upside down... I love it when a plan comes together! (sorry... I simply couldn't resist)

Ah my fist picture didn't upload... The bracket

Thanks guys, I really am appreciating the help and comments made. I've actually abandoned my two previous bracket ideas and have gone for something extremely simple, it appears to be working, and if I'm right when I drill the holes I think this new solution will sort most of my alignment issues for the counter. Here it is simple... And here is the reason why. This method utilities the small clip which hold the connection box to the counter itself. The upright part of the bracket is a perfect fit width ways 18mm and upright including the bend is 25mm. This fits all the way to the roof of the counter on the inside. The angle is off 90 degrees so it wedges a little with the motor, but in all it is strong enough to hold upside down and shake. Once I've drilled the holes and connected to one of the rails you'll see this actually helps a great deal with vertical alignment. M19: M38/M40 Its beginning to slowly take shape.

Impressive! :vader1: