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About Skiffy

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  1. Thanks Dom - I made the stock myself from standard steel bar and box section. It doesn't fold (yet). If I get around to doing it - I'll update this thread.
  2. It's finished!! There are still some changes to be made - but I'm happy to leave them as is for a while. The grip pattern turned out OK - I couldn't find and appropriate mesh, so I pressed a roughing file into the milliput, and I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. Later, I'll drill out the scope lenses - I've got some glass ones to go in.
  3. I don't have a real sterling, but the cocking handle flares out where it meets the bolt - That larger hole at the back of the cocking channel is so you can pull the handle out (when the bolt is pulled fully back) to disassemble it. I think I've got a pic that might help - I'll see if I can dig it out. ...Done! You can see the handle at top left and the recessed hole it sits in in the bolt.
  4. Pic update! I've been concentrating on all the little details I wanted to add... First, bayonet lug. Here's the fire selector, and (just visible) mag detailing. The components of the D ring and housing. "D-ring assemble!".. The four small nails aren't strictly canon, lol, but I didn't want to rely on glue alone. This was hard to photograph - but it's the Empire roundel which will sit on the grip. I've yet to re-do the grip pattern. That's it for now!
  5. Not a problem Gazmosis - you're quite right. I had to bolt it when the pipe split between two holes, and needed reinforcing. it does still clip into the barrel hole too, and the steel rail was a complete bugger to bend by hand. lol.
  6. Thanks Martin! It's amazing the difference a good quality paint finish makes. I'm almost done now. Just a few more bits to add. I was looking at this picture and thinking about the fact that these ANH E11's shot blank rounds to get the muzzle flash. Then I saw something I've not noticed before in this famous lobby card image - see the ejected brass shell at bottom left!!
  7. I had a painting disaster at first, had to strip the gun down - clean off all the crap black paint and find a better brand of rattle can. Went with an automotive satin black - which looks the bomb! Still lots to do - including re-doing the grip - but it's starting to look shweet..
  8. Note that you'll probably need a scope and counter too by the looks of that.
  9. My 2 cents: (I've got a hasbro - and I'm almost done with my pipe scratchbuild). I can't imagine trying to get the hasbro to look decent. I would imagine the pipe kit from DoopyDoos to be about the same cost as their hasbro conversion one? The scratchbuild will look as accurate as you want it to. Hasbro less so. I'd definitely go for the pipe!
  10. Hi Marv. I used the incredibly high tech method of covering the wooden surface with Milliput - waiting for it to dry - and filing grooves (at two different angles) according to markings I'd made with a ruler earlier. I think you're method is better = use a knurled mini-rolling pin. Genius! Now, I'm off to play 'hunt the knurl'.
  11. Haha - thanks guys - it certainly looks a lot better with a coat of unifying primer. Unfortunately, with no cover for spraying (I'd be outside) and 50mph winds - doesn't look like I'll be putting any black on this sucker tonight. *Sigh*.
  12. Funnily enough, I have thought long and hard about this. I've left room in the trigger housing for a pivot and return spring, and considered ripping open my hasbro to transplant the sound chip. I think I'm gonna stay silent with this though, perhaps until I can afford a blastercore unit - now that would be the shizzle..
  13. I haven't used E6000 so can't vouch for it's suitability, but... If you can find it locally, use a 2 part epoxy adhesive (resin and hardener). I use Araldite in my build. It'll cover all areas - which is important when you're fixing wood to PVC to acrylic to steel to aluminium to resin to styrene to brass to ABS or whatever else. Just make sure you key (roughen) your surfaces first. If you need any help from someone who's been there with PVC pipe, just holler!
  14. Okay, more primer and greeblies added. We now have a trigger, a cocking handle and a rear stock-catch (minus the insert).. We have a bolt on top of the mag housing, a mag with scallop detail and you can just see the front ironsight. Next up in this overall shot you can see my cack-handed failure of an attempt at grip pattern. This will get smoothed and re-done. You can also see a little bulge where the scope rail bolts to the front of the body. This is re-inforcement where the PVC split right across two of the vent holes as I was fixing the rail in place. I tried and failed to glue it from inside, but luckily this 'patching' solution won't detract too much from the overall effect. Lastly, a detail shot of the front ironsight - filed from acrylic sheet. Still to add: D ring, bayonet lug on side of barrel, fire selector switch, more detailing at the back of the mag housing, non-wonky grip patterning! I plan to insert an imperial roundel in styrene to the right side of the grip - as I've seen in some resin versions - cuz it looks cool..
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